curious, I know RPM warranties there stuff for breakage, I wonder if they would for warping?

I was in the process of making a template for something like this and remembered someone already makes one. Anyone not running a aluminum chassis try one of these yet?

yep I did. I tested several. I personally liked the saddle conversion top plate with the side links like I posted last week. In combination with the new ASC rod makes it solid.

I used this version with the stick pack configuration, also worked as battery hold down. But the truck can be 2.5 ounces lighter with the brass saddle conversion and stiffer when comparing the 2 setups x-balanced 50-50 l-r . (Using the same electronics motor etc.)

Not really looking to add weight more reducing flex and staying as light at possible. Does this one turn the saddle packs the other way?

has anyone looked at making a hopup of sorts to give more weight up front down low like the exotek chassis or is there no need?

I guess the reason I ask is that I see guys wanting to get more weight up front and down low.

Reflex makes the saddle pack holders out of brass which is pretty heavy and only around the battery.

thanks for the info. To clarify, I mean the forward chassis section.

Oh like making the front chassis out of aluminum?

something like that, yeah . Basically get more weight up front in some fashion as low as possible.

I guess I just hear about the bias to the rear and such with guys wanting more up front. Mainly curious if it could work.

No this one was for stick packs , but it was a hassle to put the battery in and out. The one posted before works very well with the FT or any saddle conversion.

If you are using the B44 saddle hold down you can try using tie rods to the battery hold down post to reduce side to side flex.

The ReflexR conversion adds 2.2 ounces. I ran a pro4 motor/ rx8 and only need 1/2 oz in the radio box to get weight distribuition 46f/54R and x-balance to 50-50 l-r.

I tried adding 1 ounce under the servo and the truck jumped nose down. To me it was very hard to control.

After I experiment a bit with lead weights and balancing and tuning...
I'm thinking about using 1/8" steel plate, ~2-3" wide as a skidplate in the needed position.
That would get the weight about as low as it can go, and the ruggedness and reinforcement should be good.
I'm also thinking of making it so it can slide forward and back for tuning.

Real race car engineers use F/R bias as a tuning aid. Higher grip = more rearward bias.

Just sayin'.

Mantis, He said the exact opposite.
v--Here--v
RPM has on occasion said "It did not break, so it's not a warranty yet" to my customers. I'm really not sure where the guy gets off saying that to a guy but it's happened several times. (just snap them when they warp to make sure)

Thanks, I am interested in reducing the twist flex without adding weight. I figured the more bolted down it was the stiffer it would make the center section.