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From earlier pages...

thanks sir!

Had a rear inner bearing completely disintegrate on me the other day. I am running the Jconcepts hexes on the rear. Should I be using the two shims on the outer rear hubs with the conversion? I am running the shims, and think maybe this caused the bearing failure due to stress caused by the shims.

Hello everyone, I have just recently added a +8 chassis to my B4.1 and am experiencing a very bad push mid to exit corner. I have B4.1 FT setup to a tee except for I am using regular 0 degree hubs and 3 degree block. Tires used were PL M3 4 ribs, 3 ribs up front and M3 Calibers and Green Flipouts for rear. Do i need to go down in front caster, raise rear roll center or what to help get some more mid to exit steering? Thanks for any help in advance. Track is very hard packed and dusty which turns slightly loamy as moisture comes up at night.

This statement below from Wild Cherry is NOT correct.

The 2 and 3 hole caster blocks have the same geometry, but the 3 hole versions are a slightly softer material and have the hinge pin hole molded, where the 2 hole FT caster blocks are drilled. The 2-hole blocks are shot in the super-stiff carbon material, so some racers notice a handling difference due to flex. The drilled blocks are also succeptible to shifting in the fixture and not being identical left/right...so I run the molded caster blocks which are the same every time they're made.

COACH

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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
The difference is not really the plastic .....
The difference is the 3 hole axle height is .030 higher than the two hole version .
What does this all mean to how the car handles ?
Three hole has smoother or less steering compared to the two hole ....*
*Comparing both with the steering block installed in the middle of the caster block...
So ? If you ran the three hole block .030 lower , it would be the same as a 2 hole in the middle ....

take out the washer in the front and make it one. You can do same with the rear to loosen it up.

With the aluminum clamping adapters, you don't need any axle shims on a B4. I run the 2 inner shims on my B44 with them. Were you running crush tubes in between the bearings? If so, maybe one was too short or the hub wasn't machined perfectly, so you could try again with new parts making sure that it's free when you bolt on a tire, if not, you could have a defective part which can sometimes be fixed by adding a shim in between the bearings in addition to the crush tube. Oh, and I always use a certain brand bearing....

Placing my order now!!!

Bearing crush tube Bearing slide CVA Axle thru install two axle shims install Pro-Line or JConcepts Hex on Tighten up Done .. Free spinning !!

They also have a bit more material around the vertical axle hinge pin. I use the 3 holers too.

Thanks for the reply's guys. How is the stock worlds setup?

I've found it to be pretty good with minor adjustments. I took the Worlds setup, stood the rear shocks up to the middle hole, added 2.5oz of weight in various places, then went to 2.5 degrees of toe. I'm using it on outdoor red clay tracks. Usually bumpy with medium traction.

I just started running the Kyosho Dark Yellow/Silver spring setup. It seems to be MUCH better over the stock springs.

One question though, I'm trying to gain a little steering. I'm looking for a very small adjustment to add steering coming into the corner off power. I would like to try a little bit more aggressive front tire than Barcodes and Rips, but not sure which one.

Losi pink taperpins are my favorite tire for the most steering.

I'm getting these: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Tires-Yellow-2



Nah, I kid. I'll pick up some Taper Pins. Might as well buy some for the rear too while I'm at it.