Wrong is wrong. Design the part properly in the first place or accept your shame and issue a new part number. Running changes piss customers off. This doesn't happen in the auto industry without a serious come to Jesus or "circle of beats".

Defend a bad decision all you want. It's wrong.

I'm wanting to get into the 4x4 SCT class, and I'm posting this in all 3 threads....
(AE,LOSI,KYOSHO)... Who has the most BADA$$ 4-wheeler? Why is your truck better,faster,more durable, etc... PIX?

Agreed. But ask this question:

How many people here have had one back off? More than a few.

How many people here who glued theirs up have had one back off? NOBODY.

If you think it's a bad idea, don't do it. It's your truck. If you think your B4.1 or SC10 handles better with the stock flexy steering, don't buy the Avid or Jconcepts bell cranks, and absolutely don't CA the stock steering saver together.

Nobody has the best or badA** as you put it, they are all great and any one of them can win on the track (even ones you didn't mention). Each will have its good points and bad........... Some will tell you one is better then the other but in all honesty NONE are better then the other overall...........................

17 is likely too large for the 3500. 14 or 15 depending on your track would probably be a good place to start.

I ran a 15 @ the Motodome's current setup and it was golden.

O-way !MBA

Lock nut doesn't
come loose even if adjusted looser when using the clicker ....



HEY FORT !

get the AE , no kid U .....

A used worn out locknut will come loose though, and why are you so against the ca'ing when the truck is fastest with full time 4wd. No one i have met or talked to thought the clicker was even a tuning option for them....more of a burden.

I sorta wish that ae would come out with a clicker delete front pulley and top shaft. It would take weight away high up on the truck, which is never a bad thing

I'm not agreeing with WC at all about the cliker, but taking weight away from the front is not a good thing IMO, the sc10 is already known to light as it is and be very tail heavy so lightening up the front is the last thing you'd wanna do.........

I agree, it is more than likely too small and over revving the motor.

I understand that all the trucks are competitive, but why is your truck better than the LOSI or KYOSHO? From what I've seen at the local tracks, the LOSI seems to be dominant. WHY?

I currently run a 2wd SC10, and love it, but I don't want to buy a 4x4 SC10 and consistantly get smoked by a LOSI or KYOSHO....

It seems that the 2wd SC10 is fairly dominant, but the 4wd is not....????

Hey guys I'm selling my Factory Team Sc10 4x4 month old, personally didnt suit driving style but very nice solid truck, figure I'd let you guys know if anyone's wanting to upgrade or spare truck.
Thanks
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post10668905

Only on certain tracks does the Losi have an advantage, like big blown out 1/8th tracks. The reason is because it has more weight over the front wheels. SC104x would have the edge on small indoor high grip, because it has more of a rearward weight bias helping it turn on a dime. That's what I have gathered from reading this thread.

Kyosho doesn't make an electric 4w short course, otherwise I would own one.

I'm not a salesman therefore I'm not going to try and sell you on the sc10 or any other sct......... If you feel the losi to be the dominant one then go for it, it doesn't matter which one you buy if there is someone on the track that is just flat out better then you your going to get smoked regardless of what 4x4 you have............

Thanks for the video and the opinions. I think I'm going to buy the ft upgrade kit this week for sure.

Don't worry - AE will, and Geo will then claim it's the best thing to happen since cut bread.

He never did say why he thought it was a bad idea, other than I came up with it. Like I wrote earlier, it shouldn't matter. But since its come loose on everyone who's ran for any length of time, and since nobody ever uses the clicker, for a six dollar savings, I'm gluing mine.

Other than to save six bucks every now and then (anyone who knows me IRL understands I'm totally down with saving a buck), I haven't seen why it's a good idea not to.

I wouldn't be so fast to say that (and I think I'm the first one who said it). Under certain conditions, provided you have a track with medium grip or higher, the rearward bias is helpful. If the track is totally dry slick or destroyed, maybe not. But it's almost never helpful to have the weight either on the sides or up high (the Twenty Two rear ballast weight on top of the transmission and a couple of instances in sedan excepted). This is why I don't advocate the aluminum chassis - if you want to add 5 oz, fine. Put a piece of steel on the bottom of the chassis in the middle, but for cryin' out loud, don't add it up high on a chassis that already suffers from a high COG like all the SC trucks do.