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Old 04-29-2012 | 07:07 AM
  #14131  
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Default AE springs

I know a lot of people are switching to other springs, but I am still running stock springs. I have the Factory Team buggy front spring kit and just noticed that the black, silver and green are shorter than the brown and blue. Is there a reason for this?
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Old 04-29-2012 | 08:10 AM
  #14132  
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I am using a spektrum radio and just wanted to make sure that the setting called EPA is the same thing as Travel. Is that the case? Also, the radio settings can go up to 150%. Do I need to set them to 100% before I setup my speed controller?
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Old 04-29-2012 | 08:15 AM
  #14133  
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Originally Posted by SAMCRO
I am using a spektrum radio and just wanted to make sure that the setting called EPA is the same thing as Travel. Is that the case? Also, the radio settings can go up to 150%. Do I need to set them to 100% before I setup my speed controller?
EPA stands for End Point Adjustment and it is used to limit travel to the servos. On the throttle side, set it to 100% and calibrate the ESC.
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Old 04-29-2012 | 08:16 AM
  #14134  
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Originally Posted by SAMCRO
I am using a spektrum radio and just wanted to make sure that the setting called EPA is the same thing as Travel. Is that the case? Also, the radio settings can go up to 150%. Do I need to set them to 100% before I setup my speed controller?
EPA and travel are the same thing. Once you program your ESC to your radio's throttle, you shouldn't change it above 100%... it'll only affect your throttle curve and give you less throttle control.
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Old 04-29-2012 | 08:19 AM
  #14135  
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Originally Posted by Jason Turner
You racing in utah this weekend?
I'm out in southern California. Wish I had the time and money to travel further though
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Old 04-29-2012 | 08:22 AM
  #14136  
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what collars/cups do you use for the avid springs?
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Old 04-29-2012 | 08:39 AM
  #14137  
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Ran the car for the first time Friday and wow, I have some work to do. I started with the kits base setup and it pushed like a dump truck on our medium-high bite indoor track. I was only able to run a couple practice sessions before jumping into the qualifiers and during each, I had trouble with ball cups. Came off a jump off camber on the front right and split a ball cup length wise (direction of the molding seam). Had another turnbuckle issue in the 2nd practice session and while I was pulling the car off the track, clipped the end of a pipe going exceptionally slow and ripped the ball cup off the threaded rod connecting to the servo (Avid rack). I replaced the front and rear camber links with the RPM units (didnt have time to finish the tie rods) and didnt have an issue the rest of the night.

The car has very aggressive turn-in but mid and exit steering is very poor. I moved from about 1 degree toe out to about 1 degree toe in but that didnt change the symptoms. I'm running the shorty pack and started with the one larger pad in the back. Added 1 of the thin pads and no change. Added the 2nd pad but didnt get me where I wanted it. Ended up laying the large pad down (roughly the same as the thick + 2 thin pads and added 1/2oz in front of the servo but that didnt help much.

Shimmed the rear hubs all the way forward and that helped a little bit and then moved the front shocks out 1 hole to the middle holes and that helped a little bit as well but it still pushes like crazy. Also loosened up the diff a bit. Forward bite is very good, just need to find some steering. I would have used some drag brake but the turn-in is so aggressive that I'd just end up looping out. All said and done, I shaved about 1.4 seconds off my fast lap by the main but I'm still about 2 seconds off pace. I'll probably go with a softer front spring for next week. Oh, on power steering is pretty good.
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Old 04-29-2012 | 08:40 AM
  #14138  
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Are you running the right tires for the track?

Also if you are trying to gain steering you want to move the hubs back (longer wheelbase) not forward. Less weight over the rear wheels.
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Old 04-29-2012 | 08:47 AM
  #14139  
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Originally Posted by supafastsupra2
Are you running the right tires for the track?

Also if you are trying to gain steering you want to move the hubs back (longer wheelbase) not forward. Less weight over the rear wheels.
I'm running super soft Vektors up front with super soft Barcodes out back. The Vektors generally work very well there (great on my 22).
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Old 04-29-2012 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by madweazl
I'm running super soft Vektors up front with super soft Barcodes out back. The Vektors generally work very well there (great on my 22).
Your aggressive turn-in is from moving the front shocks out on the upper link. Move them back to the inside hole. You can gain some steering by using less droop on the front.
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Old 04-29-2012 | 09:06 AM
  #14141  
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Originally Posted by supafastsupra2
Your aggressive turn-in is from moving the front shocks out on the upper link. Move them back to the inside hole. You can gain some steering by using less droop on the front.
The turn-in characteristics were no different in either position. It had this condition with the kit setup.
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Old 04-29-2012 | 09:17 AM
  #14142  
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Originally Posted by madweazl
I'm running super soft Vektors up front with super soft Barcodes out back. The Vektors generally work very well there (great on my 22).
vectors do steer well but i found blue rips with green rears work very well. I switch to a blue when its wet and now since its very dry a green but always a blue front. For even more a blue barcode front. Now If u have 2 washers in front take out one, if you have one take that out. In the back don't run any.

Lowering the front ball stud calms it in, has more coming out. Lowering the rear ball stud frees up the car. -1 camber all around. 24mm ride height.

i think it is probably a tire issue. Tires working on another car never work perfect for another. At least what I see here locally. Now if u try this and you over steering add a washer up front.
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Old 04-29-2012 | 09:31 AM
  #14143  
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Originally Posted by madweazl
The turn-in characteristics were no different in either position. It had this condition with the kit setup.
Maybe its your battery. I run the shorty all the way forward with a half pad in front and a SC pad (about 2 inches long) in the rear. 1/4 ounce of weight in front of the receiver. I get a very balanced feel. No pushing at all.
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Old 04-29-2012 | 09:36 AM
  #14144  
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Originally Posted by idrummerboy13
vectors do steer well but i found blue rips with green rears work very well. I switch to a blue when its wet and now since its very dry a green but always a blue front. For even more a blue barcode front. Now If u have 2 washers in front take out one, if you have one take that out. In the back don't run any.

Lowering the front ball stud calms it in, has more coming out. Lowering the rear ball stud frees up the car. -1 camber all around. 24mm ride height.

i think it is probably a tire issue. Tires working on another car never work perfect for another. At least what I see here locally. Now if u try this and you over steering add a washer up front.
I was planning on giving the Barcode fronts a try. In regard to the front shims, which location are you referring to?
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Old 04-29-2012 | 09:37 AM
  #14145  
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Originally Posted by zipperfoot
Maybe its your battery. I run the shorty all the way forward with a half pad in front and a SC pad (about 2 inches long) in the rear. 1/4 ounce of weight in front of the receiver. I get a very balanced feel. No pushing at all.
I was hesitant to go any further forward but I can give it a shot.
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