med bight clay, sometimes wet, sometimes dry. Sometimes clean, or a little dust.

it runs great i have had it in mine for about 2weeks and been to the track 4 times i run between 8 to 10 min and i have the temps coming off at about 140s the highest was 154 and my tc spec esc comes off at like 120 it has a wicked power band tones of tq and i have it a 1-2-2-4 setting with the 4version firmware also i am running it with 80% throttle setting on my transmitter and I'm still hitting triples with ease and the response of throttle is great very with plenty of power enough to tune it down X-20+++++

it runs great i have had it in mine for about 2weeks and been to the track 4 times i run between 8 to 10 min and i have the temps coming off at about 140s the highest was 154 and my tc spec esc comes off at like 120 it has a wicked power band tones of tq and i have it a 1-2-2-4 setting with the 4version firmware also i am running it with 80% throttle setting on my transmitter and I'm still hitting triples with ease and the response of throttle is great very with plenty of power enough to tune it down X-20+++++

Word, maby his settings or gearing was off or somethin

FYI I usually end up shimmed 6 and 4. It depends on the gearboxes, but for a while there was a batch that needed less shims (4 and 2). Keep the same split and add 1 shim to each side to take out all side play. Input shaft shimmed 1 and 1 is good to go.

I am just about done with the build and am having a problem with my Hitec servo being rubbed by the servo link.

I noticed at various times there is a rash of comments on this thread about servo links rubbing on the servo, but no real solution other than using different servos.

Are there any real solutions if I already have a servo and don't want to buy a new one? Removing the black spacer might give me enough clearance. Is there anything wrong with mounting the servo diretly to the aluminum servo mounts?

If removing the servo shims is not a good idea, and new servo is the only/best option, what servos are known to fit?

You can remove the shim if you need to, it's simply there as a fine tune adjustment to the steering link angle.

Most of the problem is that the holes in the chassis plate are too far forward, so if taking out the spacers doesn't help (like it didn't for me), you can try to file a little bit of the bump away from the steering rack arm. The only final cures are to elongate the holes in the chassis, get a different chassis plate(which may have the same problem), or get a different servo.

I've looked at 3 different chassis plates in addition to my own. ALL 4 had the holes in different places not only N/S, but E/W as well in reference to all the other holes in the chassis (which all lined up fine). One was so bad the guy resorted to shaved plastic mounts and bolts/nuts to hold the servo to the mounts to get enough clearance with a "known to fit" servo (AE brand servo).

There's a serious problem with either the CNC program for the drilling of these holes, or the indexing of the carbon plate in the drilling fixture.

Other than that issue, I really like the car.

Removing that shim was enough for the steering arm to clear the servo. Thanks!

Anyone have any gearing & timing recommendations for my car with an orion R10 pro and VST pro 13.5. Track is med-high bite with a 95 foot straight

We are running full timing as well

Turner I run 78/25 at our track,Boost only, set at about 35-38 deg (my speedpassion only lets you go to 62 Or 64 deg) Great speed, great punch. I come off at 145-150 after 10-15 min of practice.

i have built 2 ..... u need to dremel a little off of the steering link behind the part that "ball stud" rubs. keep taking a lil off at a time till you can barely see light between the two then stop. always works for me!!

i am new to this b44.1 and need to ask this thing about batery sadle packs

they are sadle packs, the size is normally 69x47x25.1mm. come in 7.4v each
but the question is about the conections...

it goes one - from one cell to the other cell +
And the other + from one cell and the other - from other cell goes to the plug.

this gives 14,8v of power? or double the mah?
i am getting very suspicious thats a 4s configuration... that is overkill for a 1/10 car. Am i wrong? Overkill is good

Each PAck is actually only 1s when you put them toghether thats when there 2s.

+1 each saddle pack has 2 batteries. One battery is 1s the other is also 1s this =2s lipo 7.4v. Also same goes for the Mah rating. Lets say i have a 5200mah Lipo saddle pack well one of the batteries has 2600mah and the other battery has 2600mah. Simple just divide the mah rating by 2 hope this helped.

You're half right. Each battery of a 5000mah saddle pack is 1s 3.7v 5000mah.