Hey guys I have some shock limiting questions. When people post up how many limiters they have, does that usually refer to the limiters outside of the shock body? Also what is the big advantage to limiting the down travel to the shocks?

I know this is old news....but the capacitor fixed the problem. Works great now.

Thanks Suzukee I can see what is wrong now as the cups do not fit in to the hub far enough. I now know where to look!

Check out this website first of all: http://users.telenet.be/elvo/

He talks about all sorts of suspension tuning on that site. Basically, internal limiters limit chassis movement, both side to side and fore and aft. If you add limiters to the rear shocks, the rear end can't rise up as high under braking and you won't get as much steering under braking. On the flip side, if you add limiters to the front shocks, the front end won't be able to rise up as much under acceleration and you won't get as much rear traction. There are similar affects from side to side. In fact, limiters are a really effective way to get rid of traction rolling. Make sense?

+1 I did the same thing.

Hey Total Noob with electric stuff here..having run lots of 1/8 nitro I have no idea about this electric stuff.. other than how to charge the batteries. I've got a couple of questions, and would appreciate some help.

1. We recently bought a RTR ( sc700esc w/Reedy 3300kv motor) for the kid and it's very punchy and hard to drive.. it's got plenty of tourque and top end speed but hair trigger.. What can a do to make it easier for him to drive. I've tried adjusting the slipper but .. not really making too much difference. Keep in mind we are using the basic RTR radio system

2. I also found a slightly used older RTR kit (sc450esc w/Reedy 6100kv motor) it is much easier to drive, not as punchy and decent top end speed.. What's the difference between the two? Using the same RTR Radio system.

3. I just ordered a FT kit, what motor speedo combo do you recommend I get.

We are running on a smaller/tight indoor clay track..
Thank you

Change the throttle profile on the SC700ESC.

1. You would want to change the throttle profile to "Very Soft". http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...206%202011.pdf
2. Don't know, never used the sc450esc.
3. There are so many to chose from. Noval, Tekin, Viper, LRP, Castle and more. As far as customer support, Novak is really good and I have had good luck with them so far. From what I have read, Tekin and Viper are just as good. So it comes down to what you prefer or who's information you chose. Or it could be what better deal you get? There is no "best one" to get. All seen to have issues now and then.

As far as motor sizes, that will be dictated by skill level, where you are drivign or racing and if you are racing, what class.

I would start with 17.5 so you can run the stock class starting off. This way everyone is limited by motor and not having out of control power will let you focus on handling turns and jumps and maintaining momentum.

I tried out the T-bone front and rear bumper at the track today. Overall i'm not crazy about them. They hold up great and from what I can tell will be the last bumper I would ever need, but I have to problems.

1. Front bumper too low/shallow and stubs it's nose on steep valleys
2. Front bumper sticks out on bottom and catches in soft clay
3. Rear bumper too long and catches the take off on steep jumps
4. Rear bumper not flush with bottom of chasis and digs into the dirt on landings and take-offs.

I think that the site lists the bumpers as being for bashers and I think they would work great for that purpose, but it wasn't great for me at my tight clay track.

I'm going back to stock front and rear enhanced with the FN Cuda brace.

Quick question guys. I will be installing a Mamba Max esc with 5700kv four pole motor. I'd like to be able to run 2 and 3 cell lipos safely. What size pinion should I use? Thanks.

What pinion & spur are you using in 17.5?

I run the exact setup and I run a 87 spur and a 16 pinion.

81/26 is what my GF is running (good for acceleration) and I run 78/25 or 26 depending on how it feels. We're both running blinky mode (no ESC timing or boost) with motor timing turned all the way up.

The AVID Hex adapters are far he best of the 4 choices! I've had them all between my SC10 and b4.1. The AVID hexes uses a bigger stronger screw and actually feels locked in when you tighten them.

JConcepts will tear inside if you over-tighten. DE wheels tend to pull them out even when it's tightened.
AE plastic, doesn't clamp so FT pins slide out too fast.
Proline, the worst of the bunch. The actual metal that hold the screw snaps off!