SC10 4x4 Thread
Tech Regular
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 275
I had some issues at the track today. It's an astroturf track, but with a twist.. about 65% of the track is a worn, sanded astroturf that has medium to low grip. Most obstacles, some turns and the long straight are covered in a newer, sand-less astroturf, which has loads of grip. I had tons of traction rolling today, coupled with some spinouts.. I can't really go for less traction, or driving on the worn sections is like driving on ice. What can I do to get traction rolling under control? I already have the preload at 0mm front, 2mm rear (so sitting really low), I run yellow springs with 35/30wt front/rear, 3.25mm spacer under the rear inner ballstuds, 0.75mm spacer under the inner front ballstuds. Orange swaybar front, blue rear, clicker closed, overdrive front pulley. Strangely, the truck was great last weekend, and this is still the same setup.. I have a feeling the track surface is extremely temperature-dependant. Any suggestions?
I had some issues at the track today. It's an astroturf track, but with a twist.. about 65% of the track is a worn, sanded astroturf that has medium to low grip. Most obstacles, some turns and the long straight are covered in a newer, sand-less astroturf, which has loads of grip. I had tons of traction rolling today, coupled with some spinouts.. I can't really go for less traction, or driving on the worn sections is like driving on ice. What can I do to get traction rolling under control? I already have the preload at 0mm front, 2mm rear (so sitting really low), I run yellow springs with 35/30wt front/rear, 3.25mm spacer under the rear inner ballstuds, 0.75mm spacer under the inner front ballstuds. Orange swaybar front, blue rear, clicker closed, overdrive front pulley. Strangely, the truck was great last weekend, and this is still the same setup.. I have a feeling the track surface is extremely temperature-dependant. Any suggestions?
Arakon ,, install the Ae rear hub mod with the carbon brace, it will help with you control the traction rolls .
And next time try lowering your rear ride height a bout 1mm( 23mm total)
And next time try lowering your rear ride height a bout 1mm( 23mm total)
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 04-22-2012 at 11:02 AM.
Tech Regular
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 275
I only have the choice between LRP VTEC shortcourse tires (which are great on astroturf, medium traction) and Schumacher Minispike (which have loads of traction). I get traction rolls with both.
@Wild Cherry: I can't go any lower, I already have the preload spacer all the way up. The carbon brace is not available here yet, so that's no option for now.
@Wild Cherry: I can't go any lower, I already have the preload spacer all the way up. The carbon brace is not available here yet, so that's no option for now.
I only have the choice between LRP VTEC shortcourse tires (which are great on astroturf, medium traction) and Schumacher Minispike (which have loads of traction). I get traction rolls with both.
@Wild Cherry: I can't go any lower, I already have the preload spacer all the way up. The carbon brace is not available here yet, so that's no option for now.
@Wild Cherry: I can't go any lower, I already have the preload spacer all the way up. The carbon brace is not available here yet, so that's no option for now.
You have to be way lower than 23mm if your spring collar is all the way up on top of shock body , assuming your using rear yellow....
Measure your rear ride height with a gauge and adjust...
spring collar usually lands about 10 mm from the top
Gearing is not your problem. 15/62 is just fine for 8min race.
I run my Pro4 4K with 15/60 gearing with lots of timing and come off at 160F after 8min main.
Check ALL of your bearings...hubs, trans, belt tension rollers, motor.
The stock AE bearings don't last long.
I just had a front hub bearing failure and found a bearing in my rear diff worn bad. Had to replace the diff housing too. Just replaced all my bearings with Avid ceramics. Butter smooth now.
Also check to make sure your diffs are not bound up by tightening the screws too tight. This is a common mistake. Snug them then back them off an 8th turn or so and check to make sure they spin free.
I run my Pro4 4K with 15/60 gearing with lots of timing and come off at 160F after 8min main.
Check ALL of your bearings...hubs, trans, belt tension rollers, motor.
The stock AE bearings don't last long.
I just had a front hub bearing failure and found a bearing in my rear diff worn bad. Had to replace the diff housing too. Just replaced all my bearings with Avid ceramics. Butter smooth now.
Also check to make sure your diffs are not bound up by tightening the screws too tight. This is a common mistake. Snug them then back them off an 8th turn or so and check to make sure they spin free.
Thanks again,
Chuck
Tech Regular
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 275
You make the rear hub mod yourself , use the carbon C Hub parts from B4.1, easy to do ...
You have to be way lower than 23mm if your spring collar is all the way up on top of shock body , assuming your using rear yellow....
Measure your rear ride height with a gauge and adjust...
spring collar usually lands about 10 mm from the top
You have to be way lower than 23mm if your spring collar is all the way up on top of shock body , assuming your using rear yellow....
Measure your rear ride height with a gauge and adjust...
spring collar usually lands about 10 mm from the top
Arakon ,
I'm puzzled , you are measuring at correct spots.
Perhaps you have a whole lot of rebound in the shocks ?
My rear shocks are mounted inside on tower & inside on arm ...
shock collar 10 mm from bottom edge of cap
I get 24MM rear ride height ,yellow rear spring
I'm puzzled , you are measuring at correct spots.
Perhaps you have a whole lot of rebound in the shocks ?
My rear shocks are mounted inside on tower & inside on arm ...
shock collar 10 mm from bottom edge of cap
I get 24MM rear ride height ,yellow rear spring
Tech Initiate
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 47
Are you going to be at ECH anytime soon.I have one for you.



5Likes