SC10 4x4 Thread
Maybe someone by him has run one and had a chance to see it go as based on just the vids of version 1 center diff, it looks above and beyond the basket setup.
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It would be nice to get a good comparison of the new ft slipper and the RCShox version. The AE guys are undoubtedly required to run AE. The AE guys are so good that they could take either one and win.
I have the RCShox V1 diff and it is smooth as butter. HUGE improvement. So nice I haven't even considered the V2 or the new AE version.
I have the RCShox V1 diff and it is smooth as butter. HUGE improvement. So nice I haven't even considered the V2 or the new AE version.
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Anybody else really dislike the Manual? the 1:1 scale view of what screw you need is all the way in the back (I did not see that until I was done assembling lol). Most manuals show you for each step a 1:1 scale of what parts are needed and a 1:1 of everything included in the kit somewhere in the manual. I built the shocks wrong the 1st time. They throw the F&R Shock building all together in 1 step.
Also my second gripe with the manual is I wish it explained things better. I see the tuning tips in the back. But I still don't know the color codes relation to sway bar thickness
I have the FT kit, Is it suppose to come with threadlock and a 4-way tool things?
Also my second gripe with the manual is I wish it explained things better. I see the tuning tips in the back. But I still don't know the color codes relation to sway bar thickness
I have the FT kit, Is it suppose to come with threadlock and a 4-way tool things?
It would be nice to get a good comparison of the new ft slipper and the RCShox version. The AE guys are undoubtedly required to run AE. The AE guys are so good that they could take either one and win.
I have the RCShox V1 diff and it is smooth as butter. HUGE improvement. So nice I haven't even considered the V2 or the new AE version.
I have the RCShox V1 diff and it is smooth as butter. HUGE improvement. So nice I haven't even considered the V2 or the new AE version.
On the same page as the table of contents:
There is a 1:1 hardware foldout page in the back
of the manual. To check the size of a part, line
up your hardware with the correct drawing until
you find the exact size. Each part in the foldout
has a number assigned to it for ordering
replacement parts.
While AE may not have the best manuals out there, I much prefer them to the other kits I have built (mostly Tamiya). And I know it's not comparing apples to apples, but Traxxas only gives you an exploded diagram, which is nearly impossible to follow if you are trying to replace a part that is buried inside your vehicle....
Anybody else really dislike the Manual? the 1:1 scale view of what screw you need is all the way in the back (I did not see that until I was done assembling lol). Most manuals show you for each step a 1:1 scale of what parts are needed and a 1:1 of everything included in the kit somewhere in the manual. I built the shocks wrong the 1st time. They throw the F&R Shock building all together in 1 step.
Also my second gripe with the manual is I wish it explained things better. I see the tuning tips in the back. But I still don't know the color codes relation to sway bar thickness
I have the FT kit, Is it suppose to come with threadlock and a 4-way tool things?
Also my second gripe with the manual is I wish it explained things better. I see the tuning tips in the back. But I still don't know the color codes relation to sway bar thickness
I have the FT kit, Is it suppose to come with threadlock and a 4-way tool things?
They had Japanese cartoon characters and Japanese writing. You just went by the pictures and there was nothing close to a 1:1 part legend or tuning guide.
No numbered bags that correspond to the page your on, just a box of mixed up parts.
Maybe other manufacturers do a better job with the manuals, but I saw my friends scte manual and it was about worthless.
Just be glad your not building a kit from 20 years ago.
They had Japanese cartoon characters and Japanese writing. You just went by the pictures and there was nothing close to a 1:1 part legend or tuning guide.
No numbered bags that correspond to the page your on, just a box of mixed up parts.
Maybe other manufacturers do a better job with the manuals, but I saw my friends scte manual and it was about worthless.
They had Japanese cartoon characters and Japanese writing. You just went by the pictures and there was nothing close to a 1:1 part legend or tuning guide.
No numbered bags that correspond to the page your on, just a box of mixed up parts.
Maybe other manufacturers do a better job with the manuals, but I saw my friends scte manual and it was about worthless.
Funny...we're bashing on japanese manuals to a guy with "Tamiya" in his handle.
Ok, back on topic....ran my 4x4 with white front springs on the rear...blue up front with blue sways, front and back. Running on a fairly flowing high speed indoor dirt track (Motodome near Staples MN). It was like night and day compared to trying ANYTHING with the stock back springs....and I lucked out...with the rear shock collar down all the way, my ride height was just about perfect. No extra spacers needed.

New track, lots of big jumps. yikes! To the tuning station!!!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0On_O5SaMs0

New track, lots of big jumps. yikes! To the tuning station!!!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0On_O5SaMs0
Any of you guys running 1/10 scale ESCs? Any issues with heat? How's the balance with saddles?
I'm planning a Tekin Pro4 and LRP SXX or Speed Passion GT Pro2.0 setup. A couple of local racers are running similar combos, and I'm trying to keep the weight and chassis balance in check.
I'm planning a Tekin Pro4 and LRP SXX or Speed Passion GT Pro2.0 setup. A couple of local racers are running similar combos, and I'm trying to keep the weight and chassis balance in check.



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let me catch you up. 