geebeeez, have you tested or use the engine yet? How's the performance? I m temted to get this engine for my Evolva. And what pipe are you using?

Thanks.

What length of screw should I use? See pic
3x12mm or 3x15mm?

Aku, they are actually 3x16mm, at least that is how long it is in my mugen centax. But you should be okay using the 15mm.

I tried the engine with the carb settings that AFM suggested and they seem to work perfectly. I got the engine used but it seems it was only started once. I did not have a manual so I set the needles to what would be normal for an RB carb or nova. Which is 3.5 turns out on the high end and 5 turns out for the low end. Well it ran like crap with those settings! The sirio carb seems to like settings that are almost the reverse of a nova carb. I have leaned the engine out from the 5 turns on the high end to about 4 turns out to about 200 deg. F. I think it will end up at about 3.75 turns out when done. Iam using an RB 9886 one piece pipe but I think a sirio one would be best. This is also the hand modified version by M. Collari with the orange head. Very fast engine! I was suprised to see that the sleeve in this engine did not look hand modded at all. Only the crank on the turbo slot(not much,just polished) and alot on the inside of the case itself. Everything is engraved with his initials. Thanks alot for the help AFM, it would be even more helpful if sirio would put that kind of information on their website

GLAD YOU HAVE IT WORKING CORRECTLY, NOW ENJOY THE POWER.
YES IT IS A COMMON MISTAKE WITH NEW SIRIO OWNERS TO SET CARB AS IT WAS A NOVA BASED ENGINE. ALSO BREAK-IN TIME IS SHORTER THAN NOVA ENGINES. YOU WATCH THESE TWO THINGS AND YOU'LL ENJOY YOUR SIRIO.

AFM

hey guys! i'm in the market for a 1/8 buggy engine, so i went to my lhs today, and he had a nice new sirio .21 kanai for sale, i remembered seeing these engines online for like $250-$270. So when i saw the $359 price tag, i was shocked! I asked him what was up, and he said, his manager set the price like that, but if i find a cheaper price online at an online hobbyshop, he'll sell it to me at that price! so what online hobbyshop has the sirio kanai for the cheapest price! thanks alot

www.atomichobbies.com has them for $292.99

AFM

There are two version of the kanai out. One is the old one and the new one is the kanai evo. It was just released by sirio and has more torque and rpm. The new ones go for $325.00

Akuman, I used the 3x15mm cap screw and shimmed it out to about 0.4mm. Looks like you and I have the same 3R kit can't wait to get it running.

Cheers

Doy

hows the sirio evo II i got the mugen x12 and my cuz wanst a fast engien for his rtr ntc3 plus and the sirio is fast and cheap. is it as fast as th emugen x12? i ehard the mugen x12 is the fastest no turbo 3 port. also whats the diff between sg chaft and threaded shaft? becuase he wants the black top and its threaded but we dotn no the difference
thank you

Sirio Evo 2's only come with the new big diam. blue head with the sirio logo printed all over the head.
This engine is different than previous small head Sirio S12 in that it has more agressive sleeve and crank timing and better carb.
SG shaft is the one that has inside thread to hold clutch with Allen bolt, vs. the threaded shaft, that has the thread on the outside to hold clutch with a nut.
SG shaft is the way to go for Centax type clutch, and threaded for the standard type clutch.

AFM

you´ve got pm

AFM: We are gong to have a big race down here in Puerto Rico on October, I was wondering if you can come down. Maxy Velasco is going to be racing in the event (confirmed) and so are other factory drivers (hopefully).

I can send you an e-mail with all the information just let me know your e-mail address. It will be great if we can have Sirio representatives (Distributors, Drivers etc...) at the race

I have been running the Sirio/Collari with great results. It really pulls hard! I found out that the engine does not like to be "shimmed" more from what comes from factory. I am using a Nova Turbo 7 C (Caliente) and Maxy's fuel, great combination indeed.

Saludos!

Miguel Daumont

AFM,

I've seen your posts about breakin procedures for EVO2 engines. What about non-EVO engines like the original 12TRP black head? Is it the following steps described by you correct? -Wilbur

OK, lets see. If you don't have a Break-In bench the traditional procedure you quoted from me is OK:

Start the engine with the general settings. After it is running, open the HSN 1/4 of a turn at at a time until the engine starts to load up, then turn the HSN in 1/4 of a turn in and let in run at idle for at least 1 tank. The idle must be even, if rpm's go down or up, close or open the LSN 1/8 th of turn at a time. Let engine cool completely after first tank, and make absolutely sure piston is BDC during cool-off. Repeat this 4 more tanks and your "heat cycling" idle break-in is done, then it is time for track break-in for 4 more tanks, leaning HSN little by little until you end up with nearly at general setting on the HSN.
My EVO2 ended up with full power, with 5 3/4 out on the HSN and 3 7/8 out on the LSN, and at that point it is flush with the slide end.

If you have, or can get a Run-In bench this is the procedure suggested by the factory for all .12 engines:

1.- One (1) 125cc tank in the bench at WOT with very rich setting of HSN, avoiding it to go on 4 stroke.
COOL DOWN
2.- Three (3) tanks on the track at WOT on the main straight with very rich setting of HSN, as if the engine wants to die, and tuning the HSN at the end of third tank to get almost full power.
COOL DOWN AFTER EVERY TANK
3.- For 20% Nitro, use .20 head shim and N° 7 Glow plug.

After that, the engine will give more power every new tank.

Which means that Breaking-In Sirios, should be done with more or less 300 to 500cc of fuel

Hope it's clear

AFM