Can anyone explain what the rear camber link holes on the hub do, like forward vs backward and side to side?

Who's setup do u use on a loamy track?? I want one to race but the guys around here have not got there cars setup right??

+1 to this question.

Well obviously they change the length of the camber link and i suppose it could change the rate of which camber is gained depending on the angle of the camber link relative to the arm. i Almost always use the 1,b location and every so often depending on the track i will go to 1,d or 2,b. If you are running at camber link location 1,B thats the inner hole on the rear camber block under the shock tower and B is the front middle hole on the hub, this is a fairly stable camber link location and if you were to move it to the A hole (lol) that will bring it to the inside front hole in the hub and this will dramatically effect rear traction, you should end up with less rear grip and a car that will rotate or steer with the rear faster and the oposite if you move it to the C hole or the E hole which is the outer hole in the middle row. So in other words a longer link will slow rotation down and usually add more rear grip but could cause your car to push if grip is high enough. I know thats not the best explanation but nobody else chimmed in yet so thats my explanation. Know the difference between the two inner holes (1,2) is alot different. The 2 hole (outer hole on camber block) has a big difference between the 1 hole, the 2 hole will let the car react a lot faster but be harder to tame as its fairly aggressive.

A real world explanation was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.

Thanks Eli!

Can anyone recommend the Exotek battery strap?


I bought a used 22 and the steering slider seems sloppy and doesnt seem to slide all that great..... Should I look at upgrading to the aluminum rack or just replace the stock plastic one? Should I be lubricating it with anything?

I used to run the exotek battery strap but i think you are limited on where you place your battery, you may be able to modify it but i think the stock strap and either stock battery tray or aluminum battery tray are the best methods and easiest to use.

For the steering rack i would just replace it with a stock steering rack, the aluminum racks can have binding issues so better to just replace the worn one with the stock replacement. Its ok if they get some slop, they should last for a few months with regular use. I replace mine about every few months unless it starts binding.

+1

....I see you Eli ! lol

I replaced my slider with another stock one and it was sloppy again in no time. I ended up getting the delrin slider from Driven Productions. I just installed it yesterday and it is taking a bit of moving back and forth to get it to stop binding. Hope it gets better soon, because they are supposed to be great.

From what i understand the stock pieces are delrin too.

lol, u saw me on my lid last night too... dang tamiya buggy going slow off that double.... oh well my race was over when i got pinched into the concrete pipe barrier battling for first

Ok thanks for the tips! Is it best to replace the slide rack and the part that it slides in at the same time? Would they wear out at the same rate?

Yea always replace both pieces, they come as a kit, same part number and they do wear togeather.

Seems like the same composite to me as the rest of the parts on the car. Am I missing something?

Could some one please link me to a few good batteries to suit rear configurment?

I'm running a 17.5 redline/rs combo.