did the track conditions change?

when was the last time you rebuild your diffs?

whats your sway bar setup? I would think softer in the rear instead of longer rear camber link. maybe stiffen up the front shock oil/springs as well..

I love nitro stories!

Ya kinda need the full setup. I like the outer holes on the arms better with the heavier springs. More down travel works also especially in front. I like 102mm front shock, 118mm rear shocks.

Finally got my pro painted bodies back from Paint Monster. http://www.freewebs.com/paintmonster/ He does awesome work and charges around $60 for 1/8 scale bodies. I've had him do about 7 bodies for me and they all came out great. Here are a couple of them.

The black and red body is one rattle can painted for practice days.

Absolutely loving my Serpents, very durable and they handle great. So far the only broken parts have been a shock standoff, wings and mount, and fuel tank post.

And lots of AKA wheels

The front camber link you have is the most aggressive one. Try 2b. A lot of guys like that one in e buggy. Also the rear try 2c. 1 on the tower will make it twitchy.

Also check your diffs and make sure there is grease on the out drives. Some guys run them dry or don't maintainence them often enough and they can get locked up. Our diffs typically don't leak so you don't get the diff fluid on the outdrives like other buggies.

Glad you like the vehicles. For the tank post you can run a super long screw and that helps with breakage.

I rebuild my cars after every race day. Yes i use mobil 1 red grease on all the outdrives and o rings. My cars are very well maintained. Sway bars are stock. The setup i posted is all stock minus what i posted. The track conditions didnt change threw the day. Car was loose from the begining of the day till the end of the day. My nitro car has basically has the same setup on it and it had traction but it pushed all day but had traction. The track was bumpy as hell so i put chad phillps setup on it from the hut, since that place is bumpy as well

Hi guys,
What lipo batt do u guys recommend with the 811be.
I seem to have a problem choosing my batt configurations.
Dunno really know how many c rating to use? Hope you guys cam share some advice.
Thx guys

porkchop - pm sent

You can fit the Nano Tech 6600 from HobbyKing. Just pre order them and get on the waiting list as they sell out in 1 day usually. I tried the Racers Edge 6000...a very tight squeeze, hard to get in and out.

You can put some tape around the pack and leave a tab sticking up to use as a pull tab to get the batteries out easier.

Tony... sounds like your elec is opposite your nitro? the elec spins out vs. the nitro is pushing?

On the elec, start with a softer sway bar in the rear, stock is 2.5, so then 2.3 then 2.0. Also, stock front springs are pink, which is pretty soft, so try stiffen them up to blue or purple.

That should get you in a better direction.

Since the elec version of these cars have more weight front, I would think the nitro version is a little different, but I haven't raced one.. yet.

Soften up the front on your nitro a tad to to dial out some of that pushing. If you like the feel when jumping, then just try a softer front sway bar... then slightly softer front oil.

next would be a little more caster, couple degrees at a time. I love the caster adjustments on the front of these cars, very tune-able.

_

porkchop isnt gonna be online for a while. get well soon buddy

Ok cool just making sure.

Chad always said his car pushed so that sounds about right

Email me and I'll send you a few nitro setups to try [email protected]

Cool thanks Paul.

I don't know if I missed the part or something but can you buy just the center portion of the motor mount that the motor actually mounts to? My motor slipped and "Slightly damaged it" just scratched I guess... Still sucks though. I think it'd be convenient to have them to change motors for different tracks easily.

@Vortexted those body's are sick!