Sirio engines thread
#542
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 939
From: Charleston WV
Since testing has been done and working with the NTC3 and you know how limited the pipe combo is with the car. All 3 engines has there advantages and disadvantages. All 3 were tested with both Ae pipes, the rd lodics pipe (turbo), and the dynamite long header 1 piece.
The RD pipe seems the best with all applications. We also tried 3 different sets of gearing combos with the engines.
The Murnan is very strong on top end, and not suited for short track use to me, it just goes from alittle bottom and mid to ballistic! I can't tune it out! So I can see what Baker is talking about . I don't see how a short rod engine that fast can survive. I guess you would or should change the rod alot! Looks can be deceiving! The others have better bottom and mid, and are better for short tracks. But... The Smeltz and Richey were modded for short track use, the Murnan was not. So theres the real difference. (induction timing???) But when all is said and done the Mugen Mt's Richey/TopGun777 modds is our choice.
Next season we're going to go to the Nova Rossi engines. Never owed one, we've always used Mugens, RB's and Sirrios. BB
The RD pipe seems the best with all applications. We also tried 3 different sets of gearing combos with the engines.
The Murnan is very strong on top end, and not suited for short track use to me, it just goes from alittle bottom and mid to ballistic! I can't tune it out! So I can see what Baker is talking about . I don't see how a short rod engine that fast can survive. I guess you would or should change the rod alot! Looks can be deceiving! The others have better bottom and mid, and are better for short tracks. But... The Smeltz and Richey were modded for short track use, the Murnan was not. So theres the real difference. (induction timing???) But when all is said and done the Mugen Mt's Richey/TopGun777 modds is our choice.
Next season we're going to go to the Nova Rossi engines. Never owed one, we've always used Mugens, RB's and Sirrios. BB
#544
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 939
From: Charleston WV
Cool Dennis I can't wait!! I have tried to email RD to maybe get on a list for one of your signature series engines, but no response yet, I'm sure they are probably all gone, but Dennis maybe you can work one my way bro!!!!!!
So what have you guys come up with a engine suited for both short and long tracks?? If not, any future plans on short versions??? Also bro done any work on a new NTC3 pipe yet, the RD pipe is good but I think you could work some magic in this area too! Thank Bob
So what have you guys come up with a engine suited for both short and long tracks?? If not, any future plans on short versions??? Also bro done any work on a new NTC3 pipe yet, the RD pipe is good but I think you could work some magic in this area too! Thank Bob
#545
my buddy has a ntc3 and just got a evo2 and the shaft on the evo is to short for the ntc3 stock clutch? it doesnt stick out of the clutch bell enought to secure the screw? what is going on does he need a new clutch bell or bearings? any body help!!!
#546
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 939
From: Charleston WV
I have 2 evo 1's and 2 evo 2's both with sg shafts, I had to add the thicher washer to the back of the flywheel to get it all to work. But I use Kfactroy hardened flywheels and 3 shoe clutch setups, they are alottle thicker than
the Ae flywheels and cltch setps. Maybe this will helP???
the Ae flywheels and cltch setps. Maybe this will helP???
#549
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 472
From: NC USA
Originally posted by bbntc3
Hell , the MT will eat the Rody RB 5 port turbos up!!!
Sometimes it pays to be more than the general public.
Hell , the MT will eat the Rody RB 5 port turbos up!!!
Sometimes it pays to be more than the general public.
But my bud bought a Murnan mod Rossi Pixi Black 5 port and it was very strong bottom and top.I think Murnan does an excellent job.
Mark
#550
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 939
From: Charleston WV
My murnan ran great with little bottom and ballistic top for about 6 tanks of fuel, after leaning after breakin, Now it won't run over 2 mins on the track acts as if its leaning out or something. Tried 3 different carbs and 4 different plug ranges, changed fuel line and tanks, even removed high and low speed jets cleaned carb and reinstalled o'rings even changed carb mounting o'ring and backing plate oring, there seems to be no air leaks.. My smeltz richeys and topguns fires right up and will run till the till batts go dead if you keep filling the tank. What's all your buds setting even the mid jet???. If you don't care, I've tried everything I know and I think I can tune pretty good, and have never seen temps over 240 on 30%. The Murnan maybe an Ebay item to me!!!!! I'm sure I guess theres bad engines in everybodys work,, I must have been
lucky before, maybe??
I never seen any 15 engines faster than the 12's for 200 mm. I thought most 15's make alittle less HP than the 12's Most companys spend more money and time on 12's than the 15's. Never pay attention to those HP ratings.
lucky before, maybe??
I never seen any 15 engines faster than the 12's for 200 mm. I thought most 15's make alittle less HP than the 12's Most companys spend more money and time on 12's than the 15's. Never pay attention to those HP ratings.
Last edited by bbntc3; 08-23-2004 at 08:50 PM.
#552
Originally posted by bbntc3
My murnan ran great with little bottom and ballistic top for about 6 tanks of fuel, after leaning after breakin, Now it won't run over 2 mins on the track acts as if its leaning out or something......................................... ..... What's all your buds setting even the mid jet???. If you don't care, I've tried everything I know and I think I can tune pretty good, and have never seen temps over 240 on 30%......................
My murnan ran great with little bottom and ballistic top for about 6 tanks of fuel, after leaning after breakin, Now it won't run over 2 mins on the track acts as if its leaning out or something......................................... ..... What's all your buds setting even the mid jet???. If you don't care, I've tried everything I know and I think I can tune pretty good, and have never seen temps over 240 on 30%......................
AFM
SIRIO ENGINE BULLETINS
Bulletin #1
When tuning your Sirio carb DO NOT adjust the mid-range needle. This is set from the factory on a flow meter to help calibrate the other two needles and should not be touched unless you really have a grasp on carburetor tuning. The mid-range needle can be found underneath the high-speed needle on the end of the carb opposite the low-speed needle.
Bulletin #3
Sirio .12 (General Base Carburetor Settings)
High Speed - 5.5 turns out
Low Speed - 3-1/2 turns out (Generally this should be flush with the end of the slide)
Mid Range - Flush then one turn out. (if you have moved it)
Bulletin #5
When using a Plastic tie wrap to lock the piston to install a flywheel, make sure the tie wrap is thick so it will not be cut. Make sure there is no plastic remaining in the engine as it will cause damage. We do not recommend the use of a piston locking tool as it can damage the piston.
Bulletin #6
We recommend the use of the following plugs
- Sirio .12: (standard plug) Novarossi C7S or C8S
- Sirio .12 (turbo plug) Sirio S001720127 or Nova C7TGF
Bulletin #7
Crank pin on a new stock .12 engine has 4.428mm.
The right play between crank pin and conrod bushing is 0,04 - 0,05 mm. if you're not able to check it, I suggest you change the conrod every 2-3 hours running.
The life of the conrod depends mainly on the fuel you use, as the lubrication and the right carburation keeps your engine running well for long time.
Bulletin #8
This is the correct Break-In procedure for the Sirio S12 Evo2
1.- One (1) 125cc tank in the bench at WOT with very rich setting of HSN, avoiding it to go on 4 stroke.
COOL DOWN
2.- Three (3) tanks on the track at WOT on the main straight with very rich setting of HSN, as if the engine wants to die, and tuning the HSN at the end of third tank to get almost full power.
COOL DOWN AFTER EVERY TANK
3.- For 20% Nitro, use .20 head shim and N° 7 Glow plug.
After that, the engine will give more power every new tank.
Which means that Breaking-In Sirios, should be done with more or less 300 to 500cc of fuel
ANDREA ROSSI
Lavorazioni Meccaniche srl
Via Meucci, 3 Seggiano di Pioltello Mi Italy
Tel +39 0292160235 Fax +39 0292160581
WWW.STAR-MOTOR.COM
#554
Originally posted by geebeeez
Hello, Can anyone tell me what the base needle settings are for the sirio prpro onroad engine? How many turns out from closed on the high and low end? Thanks
Hello, Can anyone tell me what the base needle settings are for the sirio prpro onroad engine? How many turns out from closed on the high and low end? Thanks
When tuning your Sirio carb DO NOT adjust the mid-range needle. This is set from the factory on a flow meter to help calibrate the other two needles and should not be touched unless you really have a grasp on carburetor tuning. The mid-range needle can be found underneath the high-speed needle on the end of the carb opposite the low-speed needle.
Sirio .21 (General Base Carb Settings)
Low End: 2-1/2
High End: 5-1/2
Midrange: Flush then ½ turn out (if you have moved it)
We recommend the use of the following plugs
- Sirio .21: Sirio S001720127 Turbo plug or Novarossi C7TGF
AFM



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