For those of you having issues with differential binding when tightening screws through gearboxes into motor plate and front belt housing, I have a fix. Take a 5/8" Forstner bit and remove some material from bottom of bearing pockets for differential in both gearbox halves and binding will disappear. the gearbox halves are putting undue pressure on both sides of diff through bearings as they can not seat into bearing pockets deep enough and causing binding when tightening screws.

Doesn't sounds like it is any better. WC is mainly wanting to keep his stuff (as he said later on) equipped with AE parts so he can use the same setup info as what is posted out there. I can understand that, but it doesn't mean its better or worse.

I am actually more curious how testing went prior to release that a clutch basket wasn't seen as a necessity. did something change when production vehicles were received? etc.

Considering its made for 1/8 scale vehicles, it better handle usage in the SC104x4


It probably would have been the same price if you bought the MMP new with BEC new. Last time I checked on new MMPs, could get them with warranty for around $105. Used, they are going for about $80ish depending on condition. Also new, it still appears you can get a coupon for the castlelink to adjust settings. If you place value on the hotwire from Tekin, factor that price in as well.

Now, don't get me wrong, doesn't change the fact that the RX8 is one heck of an ESC in this kind of usage. But for the money, the MMP does offer a lot of bang for the buck even if you need an external BEC.

I also would say the Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro is a great ESC for the money in the sc104x4. Been running it for a bit here and for the price (new its ranging between $110 - $125), you get a lot of ESC. Also doesn't need a BEC and fits with room to spare with the inline saddle setup.

I also like that with the LCD Programmer, you really don't need a computer at all to adjust it easily (ie- no listening for chimes, blinking lights, bird signs, etc.)

My bud just picked one of these up, came w/ a led tuning card and esc, shipped to the US for $100.

We'll see how well it works...

http://www.rcecho.com/HOBBYWING-XERU...ler-SL249.html

This is a long thread, so I'm sure this has been asked before....

I need an SC truck that uses the SC10 Wheel offset, reason being I'm waiting on the Caster SC 4x4 a bit later this year so I am in need of a truck to last til then, SC4x4 is rather popular here.

I really like the original SC10 4x4 because it has the stick pack configuration, I will be running a Castle SV2 style controller and a 1410 motor.

I heard the steering rack is weak on the orginal truck and hear saddle packs are better, is it that much of a difference?

550 motors became ROAR legal.

You can run the factory team with a stick pack. It comes with all the parts.

I put the STRC aluminum bell crank setup on my original truck and have never had a problem. I then put another one on my second truck which uses the RCShox Ackbar. I milled the thickness of the two arms in half so that the rod ends of the tie rods would not contact them even if the tie rods rock in either direction and I haven't had any problems with that setup either.

Not weak or what ever , adjusted correctly it is strong and reliable...

Been racing the truck longer than most & never broke one yet although I have seen others break the part with a hard hit ...

Something gotta give , better to break a plastic part than ruin a servo I say ...


saddles are a bit better , only a little & you can do quite well with stick packs with the Sc 10 4x4...

Thanks wild cherry. good info!

yea the truck isn't weak at all, its very durable. I only broke a rear bumper because an e buggy collided into me.

We swapped out the steering rack because it is very touchy and way too responsive, and touchy so with a new ackermann arm it slows the steering down and makes the truck easier to drive.

Right, I should have said for a NEW MMP. Used would be cheaper. I just know the brownout issues I was having were very frustrating. I went RX8 because I knew I wouldn't have any issue no matter what Servo or Rx I was running in this truck.

They balloon, but I've never seen a tire that didn't. But it's never been enough to affect my driving. Down the straightaway, I have all the traction I need.

got my new battey lay out parts. do i put the paper template. on the in side of chassis to drill the holes?

Hello everyone! Decided on buying SC10 4x4 couple of weeks ago.
Bought a used kit. During the course of deciding what truck i wanted to buy, TF, kit, new used etc, i read this whole thread. WOW! Lots of great info.
Thanks for all the great contributions!
Started tearing truck down before I even drove it as I agree that the only way you truly know your truck and insuring it is built properly is to do it yourself.
I will actually be using this truck for indoors and out. Outside track is a 1/10th style, large but tamable. I actually drive a highly modified slash on this track with some success. Strictly club racing, nothing pro by any means.
My only question I have is, should i get the basket for indoor high traction and the center diff for outdoors, or just try and run both in center diff?
Thanks again for all the info and will report in as I go.
One other question, what would this item do for this truck?
part#SC10X-069DB Made by yeah racing at rcmart

Can't think of reason for that in off-road. The truck will not turn with that in the front and it will be terrible in the rear.