Small Family of AE touring cars. Fiance's TC3, Son's TC6, My TC6.1

I meant track width above. Yes, If I move the hole outbound then it will be off center of the block meaning it cannot be flipped around anymore. That makes a left and right block. The other option is to add thickness on both sides (to keep on center) and add unnecessary weight...not a good choice.

There in no block rotation happening on the dial a grip with or without 1mm additional shim, money back guarantee on that. The block is already +1mm over stock TC6 so 6.1 only requires 1mm shim. And no matter how you slice it you will need a longer screw so bent screw is no difference either way. No front or back / left or right to keep track of, and still 100% compatible with TC6. No changing my mind now, just finishing another 6-8 months supply as we speak.

The things I have broke most often are c-hubs, steering blocks and rear uprights. I'd have an extra set of arms if I were you too. Haven't broken things that often, but those are what I have broken, c-hubs most often).

Hi, here is my car at the Colombian Nats, in Bogotá, it was pretty fun we were in a new asphalt track, no more parking lot.....

There's no need for any changes to the dial-a-grips. The TC6.1 offset mounts are the same as a TC6 mount with a 2mm spacer between the mount and the bulkhead. The track width and wheelbase of the car stays the same.

All AE were trying to do is get rid of all the spacers between the mounts and the bulkheads, to reduce the mount rotation. The downside of the 6.1 mounts are that you can't reduce the front track width, as you're already running with 0 spacers.

i love my tc6s, but i think you might find your caster blocks are on the wrong way round.

i only say this casue i have done the same thing myself 8)

ed

LOL most have done this at some point, must have had killer on power steering !!

-6 degree caster= super aggressive stearing trust me I've done it too

Hey guys, I'm a novice driver and hit stuff often, one of the things that keeps happening to me is that the servo saver will break loose and I lose all steering during a race...I know it protects the servo itself but has anyone experienced this even with slight bumps?

Does tightening the servo saver increase its resistance to breaking loose?
Would it put a strain on my servo if I tightened it too much?

Thank you, that was the answer I was looking for. So the track width does stay the same, so that means they then shortened the arms the same 2mm amount?

I originally made the dial-a-grips at +1mm because most everyone was running min. 1mm spacer anyway, and it gave additional material to make set screw pin lock have enough threads to reliably hold.

I would agree keeping the same gives more width options as well.

Unfortunately the way the servo saver is designed, the nut will tend to loosen when the servo saver flexes. Just reassemble it with a generous application of blue locktite on the nut, and tighten it according to the instructions. Be careful not to get locktite in the bearings.

Ditto Steve S's note. With application of a little blue thread-lock to my Servo Saver Nut, it's never fallen off. This with all my family's TC6's (four cars), even my kids' cars, which very freqnently meet the track barriers. The one and only time the servo saver nut has ever fallen off is when I built the first car and forgot to put blue thread lock on the servo saver nut.

In case you guys missed it, reflex racing is doing the pre-order on the DCJ's now:

http://reflexracing.3dcartstores.com...ER_p_1120.html

yes!, i was using the setup of Rick Howhart....worked to me, however now i´ve changed to less caster of course! Thanks for the comment!!

Has anyone used the A-Plus CVD yet are they as good as the ae ones.