RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Shorter rear links and more rear toe in. Tune the motor down and don't hesitate to use more of the power band. And of course, find the right tire. I drive on a dusty loose track at home and tried a bunch of different rear tires before settling on M3 Bowties believe it or not. I tried everything from Schumacher mini spikes all the way to Barcodes when the track was swept. Still always go back to the Bowties.
hope this helps (sorry no pics)
scott ross
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 198
From: Hesperia, Ca
yeah it helped cause now i know i did it correct because after posting i did some research on google and found a pic with some arrows pointing to where but now i know for sure i did it correct thanks for the quick responce
put it in and forget it. adds traction and stability to the rear. replaces some of the lost weight for lipos>nimh.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 198
From: Hesperia, Ca
is there a easier way to pull those hub pins out cause omg i just spent like 20 min pulling that thing out and it was frustrating. on top of that i got a very bloody finger from when trying to hammer it out the screwdriver stabed me pretty good
becareful with the hammer as you might bend the items you are hitting.
scott ross
Google 'pin vise' and purchase one. Then you insert a drill bit (smooth side out) small enough to fit in the backside hole on the arm (or even properly sized piano wire) to push the hingepin out of the arm.
Be sure you hold the arm only as you push on the pin. If you hold the hub or turnbuckle and the arm it will bind it up even worse.
You can also use the pin vise to hold drill bits for when you drill your own piston holes. All kindsa uses...
Be sure you hold the arm only as you push on the pin. If you hold the hub or turnbuckle and the arm it will bind it up even worse.
You can also use the pin vise to hold drill bits for when you drill your own piston holes. All kindsa uses...
So I've searched thru this thread, and I wanted clarification:
- Gearing for 17.5
w/ no timing - 78t Spur and gear to the moon (biggest pinion possible)
- Mod - Depends on timing, 81 spur and 20-26 pinion?
Local track runs a 17.5 no boost, blinky class. I just picked up a Peak 17.5 for now, till some other motors come in, but wanted to get some clarifying info answered.
I did a quick test, using an 81 Spur with a 30T pinion, and it didn't feel all that fast.
MOmo
- Gearing for 17.5
w/ no timing - 78t Spur and gear to the moon (biggest pinion possible)
- Mod - Depends on timing, 81 spur and 20-26 pinion?
Local track runs a 17.5 no boost, blinky class. I just picked up a Peak 17.5 for now, till some other motors come in, but wanted to get some clarifying info answered.
I did a quick test, using an 81 Spur with a 30T pinion, and it didn't feel all that fast.
MOmo
So I've searched thru this thread, and I wanted clarification:
- Gearing for 17.5
w/ no timing - 78t Spur and gear to the moon (biggest pinion possible)
- Mod - Depends on timing, 81 spur and 20-26 pinion?
Local track runs a 17.5 no boost, blinky class. I just picked up a Peak 17.5 for now, till some other motors come in, but wanted to get some clarifying info answered.
I did a quick test, using an 81 Spur with a 30T pinion, and it didn't feel all that fast.
MOmo
- Gearing for 17.5
w/ no timing - 78t Spur and gear to the moon (biggest pinion possible)
- Mod - Depends on timing, 81 spur and 20-26 pinion?
Local track runs a 17.5 no boost, blinky class. I just picked up a Peak 17.5 for now, till some other motors come in, but wanted to get some clarifying info answered.
I did a quick test, using an 81 Spur with a 30T pinion, and it didn't feel all that fast.
MOmo



