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Old 03-25-2012 | 03:05 PM
  #19981  
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Originally Posted by kjohnsiii
Still building the FT, looking for some shock spring/oil and sway bar suggestions. Also will be running with exotek chassis.

Will be running at TRCR, med bite clay, now huge jumps with some bumpy lanes.

Thanks
I run at the same track.

I run yellow springs in front and front blues on rear, 30w front and 27.5 rear with bladders installed. 30k/7k diffs with the center ball diff. Yellow front swaybar and orange rear. Im still tinkering but this seems to work best for my driving style.
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Old 03-25-2012 | 03:06 PM
  #19982  
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has some one here drive the ft truck yet? how is it a lot nicer set up then the kit ?
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Old 03-25-2012 | 03:42 PM
  #19983  
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Raced my truck today, fugger was dialed! I took it easy in the qualifiers and didn't push it cause I was still learning the characteristics of the truck with the suspension. Unfortunately it took me both qualifiers to figure it out.

I made the B main 2nd spot.

When the B main I started I took the lead and held it by a comfortable marging and was kicking everybody's arse, I easily was going to bump into the A main until my RX8 brown'd out on me. I DNF'd.

I'd lose all power then get my steering back but no throttle. Pissed me off cause my truck was running GREAT. People were commenting on how fast it was running.

Truck was on rails and did everything I wanted it to do. I was even staying with the e buggys'.

I was running a glitch buster but that didn't help. I'm not sure if the Rx8, Pro 4 and Savox servo and transponder is too much for the internal b.e.c to handle. I'm really at a loss here. I might try switching servos or something..

Sucks cause I know I would have made top 5 in the A main for sure.

Still had fun racing though and finally have a very enjoiyable truck to drive now.

Noticed my motor wires were warm though. Motor temped at 160 ish and esc I think was around 124.

Batteries were about 90 degrees too.

If anybody can help me figure this out that would surely be appreciated.
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Old 03-25-2012 | 04:32 PM
  #19984  
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anyone have a chance to run associated part #91174 slipper assembly?
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Old 03-25-2012 | 04:42 PM
  #19985  
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Originally Posted by RossNZ
For the guys running the stick pack down the middle of the chassis, how's the chassis flex after taking out the rear chassis section? Does the CF rod mod cover this without excess flex? Thanks.
CF rod keeps the flex in check no problem, I noticed no extra flex at all after the mod(just taking out the central divider and dremeling the rear upper brace until the battery fits).

Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
When the B main I started I took the lead and held it by a comfortable marging and was kicking everybody's arse, I easily was going to bump into the A main until my RX8 brown'd out on me. I DNF'd.

I'd lose all power then get my steering back but no throttle. Pissed me off cause my truck was running GREAT. People were commenting on how fast it was running.

Truck was on rails and did everything I wanted it to do. I was even staying with the e buggys'.

I was running a glitch buster but that didn't help. I'm not sure if the Rx8, Pro 4 and Savox servo and transponder is too much for the internal b.e.c to handle. I'm really at a loss here. I might try switching servos or something..

Sucks cause I know I would have made top 5 in the A main for sure.

Still had fun racing though and finally have a very enjoiyable truck to drive now.

Noticed my motor wires were warm though. Motor temped at 160 ish and esc I think was around 124.

Batteries were about 90 degrees too.

If anybody can help me figure this out that would surely be appreciated.
Bypass the BEC and run direct power? I don't run your setup but that's what I've always done, just one less headache to deal with.
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Old 03-25-2012 | 05:11 PM
  #19986  
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I just bought a new sc10 4x4 rtr from tower.

Are there any must have upgrades out of the box I need to worry about buying?
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Old 03-25-2012 | 05:30 PM
  #19987  
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Default Great Find!!

Originally Posted by Slotmachine
If you want to make your own chassis brace, try heisting your spouse's knitting needle. It`s even the right color...
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...108_172744.jpg
Did this to mine today...Quick and Easy! I used 8-32 rod with the 8.5mm blue needle. Rod ends were from Associated. In the rear I used a Steel Hat Bushing that rides on a Fastner that is held from the top with a Nylock Nut. No more futzing for the nut when taking the brace off!

Great Find Again!!!

Thanks

Sal
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Old 03-25-2012 | 05:32 PM
  #19988  
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Originally Posted by MattP
I just bought a new sc10 4x4 rtr from tower.

Are there any must have upgrades out of the box I need to worry about buying?
sway bars, chasis brace, some sort of clutch basket or center diff, and saddle's are the most common upgrade's that people start out with.
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Old 03-25-2012 | 05:34 PM
  #19989  
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Originally Posted by sugs
CF rod keeps the flex in check no problem, I noticed no extra flex at all after the mod(just taking out the central divider and dremeling the rear upper brace until the battery fits).



Bypass the BEC and run direct power? I don't run your setup but that's what I've always done, just one less headache to deal with.
The rx8 has an internal bec.

I need to figure this out, has to be either the servo or the switch.
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Old 03-25-2012 | 05:44 PM
  #19990  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
The rx8 has an internal bec.

I need to figure this out, has to be either the servo or the switch.
What software are you running in your RX8? a couple of guys at my track have been having an issue with the 2.23 update (browning out and losing it's memory and setting's). Went back to the 2.22 or later and no problems since. I don't personally run tekin but thought that I could at least try to help you out.
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Old 03-25-2012 | 05:55 PM
  #19991  
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Originally Posted by lodhammerdin
sway bars, chasis brace, some sort of clutch basket or center diff, and saddle's are the most common upgrade's that people start out with.
Are most of them parts made by ae?
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Old 03-25-2012 | 05:59 PM
  #19992  
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Default Aluminum Brace is the way to go.

Originally Posted by RossNZ
For the guys running the stick pack down the middle of the chassis, how's the chassis flex after taking out the rear chassis section? Does the CF rod mod cover this without excess flex? Thanks.
I am running my battery pack centered and broke two CF braces....all my own fault of course (grin). Today I went with an Aluminum Knitting Needle (thanks Slotmachine for the idea) and 8-32 threaded rod. The Needle was already Blue and it was the 8.5mm size. Weds will tell me the results. Also, I decided to use a fastener from the inside above the motor to hold the brace. I put a Nylock topside, then a Steel Hat Bushing, a washer or tow and another Nylock.

Sal
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Old 03-25-2012 | 06:03 PM
  #19993  
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Originally Posted by MattP
Are most of them parts made by ae?
Yeah, here are some links:

Chassis Brace, saddle pack setup, new style slipper


Sway bars, front

Sway bars, rear


The sway bar kits now come with a new 1.8mm bar.
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Old 03-25-2012 | 06:06 PM
  #19994  
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Originally Posted by MattP
Are most of them parts made by ae?
You can get the brace's on ebay like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Team-Associa...item1e6c9d809e, or make one your self or wait for the AE factory team one.
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Old 03-25-2012 | 06:11 PM
  #19995  
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Thanks for the links guys. I will order that ft upgrade kit when it becomes in stock.
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