SC10 4x4 Thread
Why not run castle system with savox servo.
I already a Savox 1257 (from memory can't see buried in truck) and was looking another motor. Currently have hobbywing 10 turn and was thinking of geting a system with a bit more power.
do they play up without BEC or ?? or do i get castle or similiar motor and keep hobbywing 70a esc.
I already a Savox 1257 (from memory can't see buried in truck) and was looking another motor. Currently have hobbywing 10 turn and was thinking of geting a system with a bit more power.
do they play up without BEC or ?? or do i get castle or similiar motor and keep hobbywing 70a esc.
hey all. ive been on order for the f.t. since back in january and even though it seams to have been delayed a week or two i need to start thinking on it.
ive seen where there has been talk about the weight bias/balance (not sure the word for front to rear) and the nose up in jumps deal due to the location of the motor. ive seen the counter to some of that is some have used a 540 motor (and successfully) or the tekin 4 pole motor.
but then it dawned on me. has anyone seen this ft in person at any races yet (im not lucky enough to be regionally positioned to see one of these new ones yet) is the saddle pack that a.e. done moved the batts forward enough to counter the weight of a 550 motor? or should i keep on the plan for a 540 motor for weight. its an indoor track maybe 60-70 foot strait.
ive seen where there has been talk about the weight bias/balance (not sure the word for front to rear) and the nose up in jumps deal due to the location of the motor. ive seen the counter to some of that is some have used a 540 motor (and successfully) or the tekin 4 pole motor.
but then it dawned on me. has anyone seen this ft in person at any races yet (im not lucky enough to be regionally positioned to see one of these new ones yet) is the saddle pack that a.e. done moved the batts forward enough to counter the weight of a 550 motor? or should i keep on the plan for a 540 motor for weight. its an indoor track maybe 60-70 foot strait.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 877
From: Connecticut
What are your thoughts on running a 550 with an exotek chassis? would that balance out the jumping more?
thanks,
550 are way too heavy. This truck is light it doesnt. Need that much torque.
Nobody here is running a 550 with a exotek. Tekin Pro4 all the way. Revtech came out with a sensored 540 can too which might be even better.
Go with the ft kit, vet started, run that setup and see if it works for add the chassis if you have to.
Gotta start somewhere. Even a simple mmp and cc3800 is eplenty.
I have a brand new mmp if anyone wants it. Pm me
Nobody here is running a 550 with a exotek. Tekin Pro4 all the way. Revtech came out with a sensored 540 can too which might be even better.
Go with the ft kit, vet started, run that setup and see if it works for add the chassis if you have to.
Gotta start somewhere. Even a simple mmp and cc3800 is eplenty.
I have a brand new mmp if anyone wants it. Pm me
ok here is my setup.....
front
30000 front diff
white sway bar
25 wt rc shox 1.2
yellow front springs
-2 camber
ball stud inside on tower
24mm ride height
upper shock #2 hole
lower shock mounted outside on arm
clicker locked
Rear
7000 diff
orange sway bar
rc shox 1.2 22.5 wt
yellow rear springs
-2 camber
ball stud inside hole on tower w/ 2 flat washers under
inside hole on caster block
24mm ride height
shock mount #2 on top outside on arm
running barcodes..... work perfect on my 2wd
any ideas?
front
30000 front diff
white sway bar
25 wt rc shox 1.2
yellow front springs
-2 camber
ball stud inside on tower
24mm ride height
upper shock #2 hole
lower shock mounted outside on arm
clicker locked
Rear
7000 diff
orange sway bar
rc shox 1.2 22.5 wt
yellow rear springs
-2 camber
ball stud inside hole on tower w/ 2 flat washers under
inside hole on caster block
24mm ride height
shock mount #2 on top outside on arm
running barcodes..... work perfect on my 2wd
any ideas?
Those two I usually play with when I have issues with rear grip, pretty much start with the lower a-arm hole by moving the shock inward when I start when I don't have time to adjust more conventional settings, at least, that what I did on all my other vehicles. My SC104x4 is using the inner rear hole so I can't comment on the outer right now.
My MMP at the time did not like the setup even with the cap, BEC probably would be the easiest to do right away. Part of the reason I went with a Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro, no cap, etc needed and its a decent sized ESC that fits under the tunnel with room to spare.
thanks Jeff. i havent tried tekin yet so i might as well give them a whirl. will just have to wait another payday since none of my esc's that i have will power the 4 pole. (i think one of them will but id rather have a sure hit then a lets tinker and see if it will run) ill more then likely try and mimic matisworks' set up. he has helped me with my shock tuning so ill start with that as a base. ill report back as it gets closer and what i end up with
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 877
From: Connecticut
550 are way too heavy. This truck is light it doesnt. Need that much torque.
Nobody here is running a 550 with a exotek. Tekin Pro4 all the way. Revtech came out with a sensored 540 can too which might be even better.
Go with the ft kit, vet started, run that setup and see if it works for add the chassis if you have to.
Gotta start somewhere. Even a simple mmp and cc3800 is eplenty.
I have a brand new mmp if anyone wants it. Pm me
Nobody here is running a 550 with a exotek. Tekin Pro4 all the way. Revtech came out with a sensored 540 can too which might be even better.
Go with the ft kit, vet started, run that setup and see if it works for add the chassis if you have to.
Gotta start somewhere. Even a simple mmp and cc3800 is eplenty.
I have a brand new mmp if anyone wants it. Pm me
However, I do like that tekin pro4 though.
[QUOTE=Vegatron75;10473761]I would seriously think about the Sidewinder SCT 3800 system. It will fit your needs well and it's very affordable. Castle has decent customer service if you have a problem.
You should only have to solder the battery connector on.
$135 to the door, w/ the $5 off coupon and a free t-shirt.... Sounds like a winner.....
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...le-1410-3800kV[/
thanks i have a mmp esc and 5700 motor in a 22 its to much. ilke to try a new set up like novak new sc 10 4x4 kit. the mmp dose not pay well for me with my set up . i have a dxsc radio rx sr 300 ari sevo dont know the number of it and a eco 30 c lipo pack 2 s
You should only have to solder the battery connector on.
$135 to the door, w/ the $5 off coupon and a free t-shirt.... Sounds like a winner.....
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...le-1410-3800kV[/
thanks i have a mmp esc and 5700 motor in a 22 its to much. ilke to try a new set up like novak new sc 10 4x4 kit. the mmp dose not pay well for me with my set up . i have a dxsc radio rx sr 300 ari sevo dont know the number of it and a eco 30 c lipo pack 2 s
Anyone seen on hear anything about these motors:
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...=ns&pn=REV1311
They have a 3800kv one as well.........
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...=ns&pn=REV1311
They have a 3800kv one as well.........
Nope, I'm still running it that heavy as well. Doesn't mean its right, but still am.
I used a piece of 3/4" board that i cut a hole in with a hole saw. Cut it in half across the hole an use that to pinch the assembled diff (case only) in a sliding vise. Center it under the bit and SLOWLY remove material. Too fast and you heat the bronze and will push the bushing out of the case or melt the plastic. Once set up you can turn them out quick. If I had a mini lathe it would be easier.



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