racerTC3

Has anyone tried the TC4 shock towers and camber link mounts on the tc3 chassis. iam curious as to how it handled with the more verticle shock mounts. Iam also looking for a setup on a small tight grippy carpet track. it is not ozite but a smooth carpet with larger "fibers" we run sweeps real green tires as the spec tire. 17.5 blinky lipo class "stock" the track size is 24x60. I need a set up that has lots of off power steering, with the coasting capabilities of brushless. There is alot of throttle "burps" to get to the next turn then coast through the turn and burp the throttle to the next turn. Lots of 180 turns with 1 straight and sweeper turn. Every set up i try it either over steers into the turn or pushes and is slow to change diection curent setup with slight push off throttle/ power slides on throttle
Front
copper 50w 2 hole piston
front shock tower middle hole
arm inner hole
low outer camber link
F2 with 4 castor block
-1 camber
no swaybar
Rear
silver 40w 2 hole piston
shock tower middle hole
arm outer hole
R 2+2 mout
-2 camber
no swaybar
5mm ride height
balance side to side perfect on balance buttons
just curious to what eveyone else is running i see some run the rear shock tower on front some run a different camber link angle i have read tons of articles/books on chassis setup but just cant find the perfect setup for this small tight twisty technical track thanks for any information

beemerfan

iTrader: (39)

Have you tried moving the rear camber links around? I find they work well on the upper inner holes on the shock tower side. Also, don't be afraid to go with stiffer springs in the rear. On my "all-around" setup, I run gold springs on all corners and it tends to work very well. I also find running 2 degree castor blocks with the F2 pin block (4 degrees total) works well on tighter tracks.

racerTC3

I have moved the rear camber links around, and i know this affects the roll center and camber gain as the arm moves, but not on my curent setup. I should also mention that everytime i changed the setup i changed more than one thing, but the car has always been driveable just some setups took more driver input to get around the track, its funny that no matter what setup i run the TC3 can still perform, just shows how great of a design it really was. I think i might try the "stock setup" see how it handles and do the one change at a time rule untill i get it perfect.

racerTC3

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13307215271243
Anyone have setup ideas for this small track. Just one of the many layouts that we use at this local HTU track. 60x24

jeff jenkins

iTrader: (84)

Just thought I would post a pic of my gear diff I got to work in my tc3 . It's a m pro light wieght gear diff for the photon with some machine work I was able to get it to work.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Beemerfan, I have my camber links at the highest possible with the ballstuds, and my Ft arm mounts level with the chassis in my tc4. No more traction roll, even when I run over dots. The lower arm mounts can be grinded down some more to lower the roll center even more, and I think you will get more of a positive change that way, rather than raising the upper camber links to the moon... I calculated that the lower arm mounts can be grinded down another 1.5mm , and that this mod is necessary in the Ntc3, which does not have any other way to lower its arm mounts....

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

The gear diff might be better suited for the front. It can work in the rear, but will require alot of oil change with different track conditions...Good luck...

jeff jenkins

iTrader: (84)

Not really sure your correct on that as 99% percent of cars in all conditions now run gear diffs. Oil changes are better than rebuilding a diff because of worn out drives and diff balls and rings. But that's just me I guess. I run a slipper spool in the front.

Dread Pirate

iTrader: (15)

About that changing oil for track conditions, I thought that tuning with the diff was not the preferred way to go. I was taught that the diff isn't the place to count on for tuning.

What's the preference?

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

It's easier , and quicker to tune a well built ball diff , which can last years racing, with no worries about leaks or too much power tearing up the gears, when coupled with a front spool/LCD combo !!!

SS LS1

iTrader: (23)

Ooo! Nice work Jeff, so did you just have to remove material from the outside of the diff assembly screw bosses to clear the pinion gear or was there more machining required?

Any mods to the gearbox?

What bearings are you using?

Any other pictures of the diff modifications you can share?

jeff jenkins

iTrader: (84)

Sorry I don't have any more pics at the moment. But I didn't mess with the gearbox. I did cut off some of the input shaft and then drilled and tap it with a 4-40thread . I also flat sanded.the pinion gear so its about half the width of stock. Then I countersunk the face of it so I can use a flathead screw to secure it while being flush to.the.gear face. Then I took the diff housing and on a lathe I turned down.the bearing surface diameter to fit the standard bearings that we normally use on the tc3 which is 3/8" dia so I turned it to .3735" . I also turned down the o.d. of the geardiff case for more clearance for.the pinion gear. After that I took the outdrives and bored out the I.d. to fit the ball of the tc3 driveshafts. And finally I drilled out the driveshaft blade holes to .096" dia to fit the pins on the tc3 driveshafts . Sorry for all the dots in this post but this is from my phone.

azeroth

iTrader: (21)

nice job on getting that in there Jeff that should work really nice makes me think of trying it myself

SS LS1

iTrader: (23)

Seriously awesome work there Jeff!

I like how you gained clearance by cutting the pinion shaft and countersinking the screw into the face of the pinion, great idea.Turning down the housing bearing areas to fit the stock TC3 bearings was genius too. I'm guessing boring out the outdrive holes to fit the CVD ball end would be easier than removing the CVD pins and turning down the CVD ball diameter to fit the Photon outdrive, and any stock TC3 CVD will still work.

Are you using Photon CVD blades? I have found the TC5 blades fit nicely into Photon outdrives and seem to be more durable than the Photon blades, plus they are very inexpensive.

Have you run the I-Pro gear diff yet? Did you break it in first with the toothpaste trick?

If you get any more photos of the mods please post them.

racerTC3

What is everone running for lipos in 17.5 blinky class. Does the high c ratting make a difference? Or is it the larger mAh that makes the difference, staying in the higher voltage range during a 5 min run. At the track i run at it seems like the average mAh used during the 4 min qual/ 5 min main is around 800-1000 mAh's. I am thinking about buying some orion 3800 30c lipos from a fellow racer, he runs in an edm 17.5 and 10.5 class and actually was the points champ in both classes this winter season at a different "larger oval track" The 3800 lipos worked great for him in both classes. Iam thinking about running a lighter lipo and lighten my TC3, no wate minimun at our track. I think the latest 6000+mAh 60+c rated lipos are over kill,especially at our small track. What do you guys think? Thanks from a fellow TC3 racer.