I am wondering if the diff is NOT clicking and you go to put the extra shim on if that caused it to be too tight?

I tried to put the extra shim on, essentially the same shim as the stock one that goes under the sun gear and it made things too tight.

What brand pinions seem to be working well with the 32 pitch spurs? I have always liked Robinson Racing Absolute series of pinions and see they offer .8 MOD pinions which is supposed to work with 32 pitch in hardened steel. Anyone using these .8 MOD pinions and what is your feedback on them?

trying to figure out which outburst was worse, wild cherries "set-up" or the losi guy question. i have read this thread,every page, and have tried several of the upgrades and not being a "pro" aside from the clutch basket don't see much difference in my truck. however i enjoy making the mods to my rc's so i am not complaining. i find you so called leaders to provide some cool info and perspective but you ruin it when your heads get too big for your hats. as a matter of fact you turn into assholes. this is a hobby and like the guys on the tc6 thread you go way over the top. how about leaving the asshole stuff at the door and have some fun on this thread instead....

depending on what motor you are running, I recommend either of these:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-3-Pack-121314

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-3-Pack-151617

the robinson's will work nicely as well

The novak pinions for the money work. Since its a plastic spur gear they are mating too, no real worries about wear, etc. Now if it was a metal to metal setup, I may have chosen a different brand that I am comfortable with based on my 1/8 electric usage.

i know the 2wd sc 10 bodys fit this kit. are the body post in the same spot as the 4x4. i like the ones per done from the ae camp.

When you put the extra shim on did you remove the one from the outside hub? I have done this on mine and was really smooth with no binding. Also I have not heard the clicking noise but have heard others clicking untill we make the switch.

Thanks for the setup info. I did try the front blue on the rear. Not sure if I am a fan of it yet going to try it again this week.

Yes the holes should line up on the bodies that are already done by AE. I have dropped a 2 old year body on with no problem.

thanks know i need to work my but off so i have the money to get my truck done need a motor and rx and esc am all there.

I run the RR mod .8 and they work fine.

Anyone using the Exotec inline saddle kit? I like the way the straps work, but don't want to have to use a tool to get the battery out, anyone using it find thumbscrews that fit? Ideally I would like oversize thumbscrews with a metric hex center. Would the FT saddle mount fit in the exotek?

I had to barely flex the posts to get the body to fit on both vehicles. It works.

I did not remove any of the shims on the outside of the hub.

So to confirm, when you put in 2 of the shims that go behind the sun gears, you take off the shim that goes between the hub and the diff case?

I wasn't hearing any clicking before or after on my 4wd. I did have the clicking on my 2wd after a pretty short time driving it, was under hard acceleration and turning at high speeds. I took out the diff and put just a single shim under one of the sun gears, but did not do the other side. This fixed it and never did it again. Supposedly if you let it go on for too long it will chew up the inner gears in the diff, but I caught mine really quick and fixed it. I just went ahead and did it when I tore my 4wd down so it wouldn't be an issue.



I'm did not do this, it didn't really feel that tight to me, but next time I have it torn apart I will do this.

II've been using the AE pinions. No issues

On the diff shim issue. I found that by lapping the face of the diff housing where the paper gasket goes you solve two issues. It reduces oil leakage and tightens the gear mesh. I use wet/dry sand paper on a piece of glass to true it. Add the bearing mod and I have yet see a diff issue.