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Old 02-29-2012 | 09:36 AM
  #14041  
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Originally Posted by nitroexpress
Keep in mind that there are long and short needle versions of the O.S. carbs (J1/J2).

I know of all the supposed advantages of a long needle design, but I personally don't like them.
I am really curious about that, I looked at towerhobbies at the carb that came with the vz-b, and then clicked parts list, then I looked at the carb from the xz-b and clicked parts list, and the parts numbers for the needles were the same?

Edit: O.S. numbers seem to be the same, but tower stock numbers and description differ

Last edited by Eivind E; 02-29-2012 at 10:06 AM.
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Old 02-29-2012 | 10:46 AM
  #14042  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
I am really curious about that, I looked at towerhobbies at the carb that came with the vz-b, and then clicked parts list, then I looked at the carb from the xz-b and clicked parts list, and the parts numbers for the needles were the same?

Edit: O.S. numbers seem to be the same, but tower stock numbers and description differ
Check and search the O.S. engine thread, this was discussed.

21J2 - OSMG7284 LSN
21J - OSMG7294 LSN

http://www.osengines.com/parts/xr22481002.html

http://www.osengines.com/parts/xr22848010.html

I believe it was stated that the MSN carrier need to be changed to match the LSN.
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Old 03-04-2012 | 04:56 AM
  #14043  
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finished at last... building my JQ the car with the beast at heart..

pics....
Attached Thumbnails Go-Tech Engines Thread-1jq.jpg   Go-Tech Engines Thread-2jq.jpg   Go-Tech Engines Thread-3jq.jpg   Go-Tech Engines Thread-4jq.jpg   Go-Tech Engines Thread-5jq.jpg  

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Old 03-04-2012 | 09:01 AM
  #14044  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
Have any of you guys tried an O.S. carb in the Go?
using the OS 3 needle carb, you'll get about the same results as the new Go 3-needle (identical to the arrow carb). Basically stronger bottom, smoother top, and better mileage. Also, if you look at the carb body at base of the fuel tube fitting (below the HSN), you'll see it is raised. Because of this, it's less prone to fuel/air leaks.

Try it. You'll like the result. In fact, any of you running the 2 needle carb might want to try the arrow... at least till swift/amain has the Go-labeled one in stock:
http://www.vp-pro-usa.com/engines/ar...category_id=86
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Old 03-04-2012 | 11:30 AM
  #14045  
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Originally Posted by curacing2
Eivind, the gen 5 carb and all later model carbs onwards work well and when tuned right will make the motors fast and reliable.
Shane and I have had a few year running and tuning these motors and Shane has very good tuning guides on his website, check it out.

http://go-racing.vpweb.co.nz/
Well my apologies to you, Sir. In the end I stuck with the Go 2-needle carb, because - well it worked well! hehehe
I don't know why people badmouth them, it was so easy to tune!

I had one of these GX5R's that I had bought on ebay from some guy who didn't want it, it was brand new, and I paid something like $80 for it, along with a 2072 pipe. So I decided to break it in today.
It came with the short needle in the carb, so I bought a long needle for like $10, because I heard that was the easiest one to tune.
Took out the short one, swapped the o-ring over, and today I went to break it in.

I used the "heat-cycling method" described in the "break in bible" thread here in this forum.
After about 5 or 6 tanks ran with heat cycles, running like 3 minutes each time, the next time I tried to start it up, it seemed really rich, and started to run a lot better once I leaned it out.

Like you described on the website, the best way is to tune the LSN first.
I started by getting the appropriate idlespeed, then I went to tune the LSN. Basicly I kept leaning it until when I pinch the fuel tube it only increases very slightly in RPM. Then after that it ran really nicely, and I started to tune the HSN, just like you described in the website.

So basicly your instructions are gold. I don't know why I was even thinking about trying an OS carb, and I don't know why people are badmouthing these carbs - it was really easy to tune and the powerband was really nice.

I am well chuffed with this, very happy. Now I just have to run another half a gallon through it, and then I will replace the conrod and put in some ceramic bearings, and this thing will be ready to race
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Old 03-04-2012 | 08:28 PM
  #14046  
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When you do the tear down after break in, you may not even need to replace the rod. The GX series (and GXII) had markedly less pinch from the factory than previous generations. Stress and wear to the rod from break in were/are noticeably less. My GX5R has 7 gallons through it and the original rod still in it.
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Old 03-05-2012 | 12:27 AM
  #14047  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
Well my apologies to you, Sir. In the end I stuck with the Go 2-needle carb, because - well it worked well! hehehe
I don't know why people badmouth them, it was so easy to tune!

I had one of these GX5R's that I had bought on ebay from some guy who didn't want it, it was brand new, and I paid something like $80 for it, along with a 2072 pipe. So I decided to break it in today.
It came with the short needle in the carb, so I bought a long needle for like $10, because I heard that was the easiest one to tune.
Took out the short one, swapped the o-ring over, and today I went to break it in.

I used the "heat-cycling method" described in the "break in bible" thread here in this forum.
After about 5 or 6 tanks ran with heat cycles, running like 3 minutes each time, the next time I tried to start it up, it seemed really rich, and started to run a lot better once I leaned it out.

Like you described on the website, the best way is to tune the LSN first.
I started by getting the appropriate idlespeed, then I went to tune the LSN. Basicly I kept leaning it until when I pinch the fuel tube it only increases very slightly in RPM. Then after that it ran really nicely, and I started to tune the HSN, just like you described in the website.

So basicly your instructions are gold. I don't know why I was even thinking about trying an OS carb, and I don't know why people are badmouthing these carbs - it was really easy to tune and the powerband was really nice.


I am well chuffed with this, very happy. Now I just have to run another half a gallon through it, and then I will replace the conrod and put in some ceramic bearings, and this thing will be ready to race

See, we tried to tell you, but glad you found out for yourself
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Old 03-08-2012 | 08:51 AM
  #14048  
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OK i think i am going to come out of the OS vspec bubble and try a go motor. Just to make sure... i want the GXII 5RHO engine right? Not the GX-5R?
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Old 03-08-2012 | 09:18 AM
  #14049  
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Hey folks...

I've got some older Go motors and was wondering if I can still get parts, specifically a 7 port sleeve and new piston/rod?

Barring that how are the latest Go motors holding up? I always liked them, but I've been out of cars for a few years and have not been keeping up.

I recently traded for a low hours Kyosho GT II and would like to put this old 7 port on it, or maybe just buy a new engine if the Go's are still good engines.

Thanks in advance for any and all help, opinions, etc.
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Old 03-08-2012 | 11:14 AM
  #14050  
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Originally Posted by XXX8ight
OK i think i am going to come out of the OS vspec bubble and try a go motor. Just to make sure... i want the GXII 5RHO engine right? Not the GX-5R?
The GXII 5HRO is the newest and baddest.. I'd get it at amain at that great price.. I raced against one in buggy last year, and it was the most impressive engine at the track..

I had the GX-5R though, and it was a very good engine...
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Old 03-08-2012 | 12:26 PM
  #14051  
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Isn't the GXII-5RHO engine supposed to have a 3 needle carb? The pic on AMain seems to show a 2 needle carb.

edit: browsing around I found the following.

GX Series and GXII-5RHO motors fitted with 2 needle carbutettor
GXII-5RHO motors post Nov 2011 fitted with the 3 needle Gen 6 carburettor

So I guess the Amain engines are older stock.
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Old 03-08-2012 | 01:52 PM
  #14052  
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Originally Posted by XXX8ight
OK i think i am going to come out of the OS vspec bubble and try a go motor. Just to make sure... i want the GXII 5RHO engine right? Not the GX-5R?
THey are both good engines, the GX11 is the latest gen

Originally Posted by fhm555
Hey folks...

I've got some older Go motors and was wondering if I can still get parts, specifically a 7 port sleeve and new piston/rod?

Barring that how are the latest Go motors holding up? I always liked them, but I've been out of cars for a few years and have not been keeping up.

I recently traded for a low hours Kyosho GT II and would like to put this old 7 port on it, or maybe just buy a new engine if the Go's are still good engines.

Thanks in advance for any and all help, opinions, etc.
Yes GX1 7 port piston sleeve will work but will need the new GX1 (Gen 5.5) crank also, or can realy bring it to life buy putting a GX11 crank in it.... with the price to do that I'd buy a new engine

Originally Posted by nitroexpress
Isn't the GXII-5RHO engine supposed to have a 3 needle carb? The pic on AMain seems to show a 2 needle carb.

edit: browsing around I found the following.

GX Series and GXII-5RHO motors fitted with 2 needle carbutettor
GXII-5RHO motors post Nov 2011 fitted with the 3 needle Gen 6 carburettor

So I guess the Amain engines are older stock.
Yes it is the USA previous distributers old stock

I wish Amain would stop calling it GO Tech, it's GO ENGINES now new line and is far superior to the old gen 4 and older engines from when was GO Tech.
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Old 03-08-2012 | 01:53 PM
  #14053  
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Hi Guys, will try and answer all your questions in one post.

XXX8ight - Yep, the GXII-5RHO is the latest Gen 6 motor and is the one to go for. The GX Series still provide great performance, but the GXII has more refinements and is 34grams lighter than the GX, plus it's smooth power is very drivable.

fhm555 - Not sure on parts availability in your neck of the woods.
If you can't find what your looking for PM me. We carry pretty much everything.

nitroexpress - As far as I am aware, A-Main bought up all of GO USA's old stock of 2 needle carbs, which is why they are are on super special. My guess is you won't see any 3 needle versions until all the 2 needles are gone.
The two needle performs very well, but the 3 needle carb does add a further dimension to the motor, and the performance difference is noticable.
By up a couple of those motors real cheap and hang onto them until the new carbs become available over your way.

HAHA - looks like Flanno and me where both online early this morning and hit the submit button at the same time

Last edited by grizz1; 03-08-2012 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 03-08-2012 | 06:06 PM
  #14054  
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A-main is having a fire sale on GO engines/
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Old 03-08-2012 | 07:06 PM
  #14055  
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Yea, I just got their e-mail. They have some great prices on GO engines.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.ph...filter_mfr=168
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