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Jody, make sure that the diff and idler gears are installed correctly. Move the pinion away from the spur and make sure the topshaft spins freely (belt off). It should spin very free. If it doesn't, check to make sure you have the motor plate screws in the correct positions. One is longer than the other two. The long screw might be rubbing the inner slipper hub.

Good luck!!!

Not really sure about which 5 screws you are talking about, sorry.

I am sponsored by DE Racing. I run all the products my sponsors offer so to rep them the best I can and so racers can see what they offer. I do run the rear gear cover but not the belt cover.

You should see the belt without the cover you would would be surprised how much it flexes, vibrates and hits inside the covers.

I use grams, but if you're using oz that's fine too.

I always weigh with tires on, ready to run, less the body. That way I can quickly weigh at the track quickly and without any changes. When they are new, I weigh the tires and write on the inside of them how much they weigh. Occasionally I'll reweigh them to make sure I didn't fill one of them full of loose dirt when I was running it.

Cross weight is where you want the LF+RR=RF+LR weight. Your SC10 has wedge one way, the SCTE has wedge the other. Some users really care about getting it 50/50 left to right, I could care less because all I care about is getting the cross close. Getting it perfect is an impossible the scales aren't perfect. IMO within 5-10 grams is close enough.

I have no idea how you got a Losi that light. Off the top of my head, the one I weighed was like 400 grams heavier than the AE truck. Yours appears to be that much lighter. I was not aware it was physically possible to strip 800 grams out of the SCTE. Not that I doubt your numbers, but are you sure you got the scales on and zeroed before you weighed anything?

Yeah I haven't used the scales much but I did make sure to read the instructions completely and waited for it to be zeroed before I put the losi on. If you look on the losi scte thread there is another losi that was weighed in at 5.10 lb's........... As far as how its done I can't really tell you lol as I bought the scte this way. I know it has all the bells n whistles to make it lighter such as the chassis, tlr tuning kit, etc etc.........

Mine clicks too under acceleration. Sounds like I have baseball cards in my spokes. I've gutted it and rebuilt it, hoping to find something. Idlers fine, outdrives only semi wobbly (replaced not too long ago), and no obvious binding. Found my front tensioner was up at 0, but otherwise Stumped. I did the bearing in a bearing diff trick since I had 'em out. Clicker didn't seem blown out. Hoping it was front belt...

Difference there is that the traxxas shock shafts are weak chrome steel, and the TiN shafts are hardened steel with TiN coating.. they'll only be tougher if they also used hardened steel instead of a softer steel in this case too.

It was my Losi that was weighed..and it's not stock, it has the Bump chassis, TLR tuning kit, Lt wt out drives, Ti turnbuckles and it's still a tank..

I wasn't going to throw you under the bus, but since you piped up....

Do you think it's possible to strip out another 800 grams and retain a rolling chassis without tossing out the motor, battery, and half the driveline?

that about the time I could expect so its not luck . At Trcr I get a bit hotter, maybe due the extra traction @ Trcr & my fat trigger finger..
usually came in 180 to 195 ..used a 12T

I don't know where their losing it from..I have most of the "big" weight loss items and I'm not sure where the 800 grams more would come from..maybe if you ditched the battery tray and ran a 380 size motor....I'm not doubting that you could lose some major weight but I'm shocked that some of them have them down to 5.8 pounds race ready..my SSC Slash weighed 6.2 pounds race ready....what wt oil are you running in the SC10..yellow springs..?

37 front, 35 rear, 1.2 conventional pistons both ends, four 4.8 rate yellow springs. I building up another set of shocks with 1.1 pistons just in case I don't have enough pack in the rear.

I heard from other drivers that the clicking you describe might be coming from slop and abnormal wear with the sun gears in the diffs. One driver suggested using the diff outdrive washers as shims on the inside of the diff, between the sun gear pin and the sun gear washers. See page 8 of the kit manual. This tightens up the mesh between the outdrives, the sun gears and the diff case. I hear that over time, the sun gear washers become concave, creating the clicking noise. Doing without the outdrive washers evidently doesn't hurt the diff or the outdrives.

Some find they only need to shim one sun gear. Others shim both sun gears. Also, if you have a nitro clutch shim kit, you may find something that will fit. Of course, you can buy a diff rebuild kit for about $11 and use those washers to shim the diff. You want to eliminate the slop while still allowing the gears to easily turn without binding. I plan to do this when I tear down my diffs next time.

Steven
PT Raceway in Green Level, PA, indoor carpet off-road & oval
AE SC10 FT, AE SC10 4x4, AE T4.1, AE B4, AE B44 FT