Figured I would report in front yesterdays action. Well, it pretty much was a demo, of the 4 SCT 4x4s that showed up, 2 didn't get to run do to issues so it was me and a losi SCTE 4x4 . First real drive for the SC10 4x4 for me.

I started with the Spektrum Off-Road Championship setup with the following changes:

- 7K up front, 5K rear
- yellow springs all around (Front and rear rates respectively)
- Clutch basket with nut flush to shaft end
- Yellow sway bars all around
- Exotek chassis, inline saddle setup
- RPM a-arms all around
- Stock Factory team piston setup
- 35W front, 30W rear
- Stock tires on Proline zero offset rims
- Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro (works excellent)
- Hyperion 6000mah saddle pack lipos
- Tekin 550 5.5 SCX motor, 62T spur, 13T pinion

I started my speed control setup based off of the what Speed passion had on there site for settings for the SCTE and novak ballistic 5.5 combo. I used boost timing though at 10 degrees. to start, but eventually took out everything as far as boost, timing, etc. as temps were higher than I liked. I will most likely need to go down in pinion tooth count possibly 2 teeth I am thinking.

Anyway, first run the vehicle was not very good. It would would take the jumps well, and I could easily downside a jump or pitch the car at least downward in the air. Not big track here so that's probably why. I did however have traction rolling issues, come into a turn with power, and over she would go. hit a bump, and over she would go. I found myself gunning the throttle and jamming the brake to get around the track which isn't how I normally drive, obiviously affecting motor temp.

I also noticed in the a more bumpy section they made, the rear would get all out of shape, probably similar to what others were reporting when using the stock rear springs. Just too hard to go fast through that section.

So I got killed by the losi, he was like a carpet car out there.

So I took my vehicle back to the pits and pulled out the only other set of front springs I have, the blues. Put those on the rear, no changes.

All I can say is wow, it really woke the vehicle up, it went through that section like it wasn't even there.

Traction rolling went down slightly. Cant really say if it was the change in spring, or the compound wearing down (sticky kicks, strong stuff).

I was able to be a bit more smooth, and I felt the vehicle had it in it to really do some damage, but I need to get this traction rolling issue solved first as it is not where it needs to be at all.

where do you guys think I should first start as far as setup changes go for this issue? Right now, the amount of travel the rear shocks have available I think is too much so that is one area I am thinking. Any other place you recommend.

Also, for pinion selection, using a 32P 62Tspur and the 550 motor I have, what is the smallest pinions you can fit? Just want to make sure whatever I buy (looking at a 10T and 11T) will fit.

Overall though, I am liking the vehicle and hope to put on a better showing next race. So far planning to buy:

- Front Spring kit
- 10T, 11T, 12T pinions
- 10K diff fluid (keeping 7K in for now, I actually liked how it felt)

I am also toying with the idea of going with the Tekin Pro4 4000Kv motor versus what I have. Is this something people feel is mandatory due to getting weight off the rear or is it not that big of a deal?

Lastly, what fan setups are people using that fit? I had an integy heatsink / fan combo I was going to use but I just can't get it to fit right.

Noticed my batteries stArt at 7.1 to 7.5 but I'm still putting 4500 mah in a 5600. Just assumed it was regenerated voltage between stop running and charging. Do u put full mah into your batteries. Thinking my lipo cutoff in my havok pro sc may be wrong. Not adjustable though. Guess I could try a external cutoff. What's your thoughts. Also charge is after cc cv is complete.

Run it some more , don't change much till you get more time and use to your new ride .


Rear shock travel ?

personally usually don't run any limiters on ft or back .....
unscrew the ft shock eyelets 1 turn

Motor gearing

550 5.5 = 15 t smallest, 16T normal

I have ran those 4 poles , a normal 540 5.5 is more better, the Novak 550 5.5 ballistic has still been the best I have tried ...

Ps With the Novak 5.5 550 you will not need a fan as heat is not a big issue with. Use a fan on the ESC though .

Voltage doesn't regenerate in LiPo batteries the way it does in round cells. If your battery is at 7.1v there's likely not much left in it, but at 7.6 it isn't close to dead.

All chargers are a little different, but if you aren't putting close to the battery rating back in, you aren't using the whole charge OR the battery is starting to fall off. The only way to tell for sure is to cycle your batteries. That will take a LONG time at a 5a discharge.

I have a Turbo 30 left around from the round cell days when we needed to cycle batteries that will discharge at 30a. I keep it around just for kicks. Any time I feel the need to get it out, usually that's a sign the batteries are junk. This might be an exception to that rule (looking for premature lipo cutoff).

Unfortunately that's not an option as the setup as it is is not where it needs to be. I can run it as it, but I will be down 2 laps or so against the losi as I can't take the turns as fast in the current configuration without traction rolling. So I need assistance on setup changes. I am looking at limiting shock travel as doing that on my 1/8 when we ran it indoors made all the difference between traction rolling versus being right up there with the fast guys.

As for the gearing, the track is maybe 30 x 30, its very very small. I am barely using any throttle to get around the track which is probably why the motor is heating up more than I like.

Cain , your set-up looks really good .



Your set-up is almost just like way I run my ride ....

Rolling over ?

Try installing external limiter's on all four shocks , use 3m or 4m thick spacers.


Picture of your track ?

If I were you, I would put a 4mm limiter inside of the shock (which I'm assuming is too much) and adjust from there. If you need to unscrew more than 2 turns, I'd take the shocks apart and pull out 2mm of limiters.

Particularly with the 550 motor, I would not be afraid to go straight to yellow fronts in the rear if blue fronts made it better. Frankly, if I could get a spring that was stiffer than yellow fronts, I would - and I'd put the 550 back in.

What swaybars are you using? Are you playing with roll center? Try a simple 2 mm washer in rear camber link under shock tower.

Does anyone know the set screw size for the sway bar kits? I did a search and only found one answer of 3mm, that doesn't seem right. I was thinking 1mm, but i maybe wrong.

hey Craig , outside , not inside...
trust me on this one

I just installed a Tekin 7.5 550 sc4x paired to a GTB last night. The indoor carpet track i race at is 60x40. I geared it at 62s-14p the motor never went over 100* with 20 minutes of run time on it and it ate up all the other lousys there. Also to help with my rolling over it has been lowered and 125000 oil in front diff and 30000 in rear diff. Not sure if it is right but drives smooth and works for me.

1.5 i think

You're running way too heavy shock oil. go to 25-30 all around. Then your shocks will actually compress and absorb the landings. Also run them as emulsion, that should help.

Another quick test is also go back to the 2.0 rear sway bar with the blue front (now rear) springs. This will let the rear of the truck have more bite and could give some push to the truck over the front.

I did not see are you running +3 wheels also? Wider is harder to flip than narrow.

Lower your ride height also. 1mm goes a long way with ride height.

hey cameron !

nice job dude ....