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Old 02-22-2012 | 04:41 PM
  #17986  
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Has any tried lightening the rear along with putting weights in the front?
FT parts, not rear bumper etc. Stock parts in front.
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Old 02-22-2012 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Jarosz
Sorry, I had about a hundred requests so I never had a chance to reply. Your bars went out with everyone else's.
Haven't received mine, but I'm sure they are in the mail. Thank you Chris!
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Old 02-22-2012 | 05:08 PM
  #17988  
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
Has any tried lightening the rear along with putting weights in the front?
FT parts, not rear bumper etc. Stock parts in front.
I considered it, but after I weighed all the parts I could change out for aluminum/titanium, and it wasn't a significant change.
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Old 02-22-2012 | 05:09 PM
  #17989  
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Okay. Would running without the rear bumper help at all.?
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Old 02-22-2012 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
Okay. Would running without the rear bumper help at all.?
Sure. Cutting the snot out of the body will help too, but that's going to happen either way once you take the back bumper off. Plus you are going to break a bunch of parts because the bumper isn't there.

Ultimately, this is an engineering change that needed to happen when they designed it. I suspect they built it around the courses at Hot Rod, OCRC, and WCRC. On all of them, the additional rear weight bias is welcome.
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Old 02-22-2012 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
Has any tried lightening the rear along with putting weights in the front?
FT parts, not rear bumper etc. Stock parts in front.
Originally Posted by CraigMBA
I considered it, but after I weighed all the parts I could change out for aluminum/titanium, and it wasn't a significant change.
I tried running equal scale weight on all four wheels ready to run. For me at the time (with a stick pack setup, 540 2pole motor) it was adding 5oz to the front around the servo and front bumper area like Craig said and removing the rear bumper stuff. The truck jumped very nose down and I actually found myself throttling up to keep the noise up for level landing. It drove decent but was crazy under hard braking lifting the rear off the ground all the time. Also at times the rear felt to lite on power whipping around the corners. Much like the problem the Durango has sometimes. It was too spot on to drive and I could get good laps with it but just not easy to push hard and battle in the front of the pack with. Might be not as bad on a bigger track.
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Old 02-22-2012 | 05:44 PM
  #17992  
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Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy
If you're going to do all the Factory Team upgrades, then the Factory Team kit is a better value than buying the upgraded parts (not available yet....supposedly will be available in another month or so).

To be competitive, the RTR really should get:

One of either a centre diff, clutch basket, or a set of Garodiscs to replace the squishy stock slipper/slipper pads (centre diff probably being the best for most tracks).
Sway bars
Chassis Brace

There are lots of other things to get, but with those three things you can get a good start. (Obviously tires, shock oil and springs, and diff oil to help you tune the truck to your track, but you'd need those with any truck....)


The center diff and the upgraded version of the center diff are likely the best slipper/diff options. I'm pretty sure that once Marcus has the upgraded version ready, you won't be able to get the older version (why would you want to!)

If you are referring to the upgraded version of the truck, that would likely be the factory team kit that will be available soon. My personal opinion - if you are a national caliber driver, then sure...go for the factory team kit... but if you're like 99% of the rest of us, and you got a good deal on the RTR, get the three upgrades I mentioned above and save the extra cash for track fees. All the factory team bling won't really do you any good until you can pull lap times that are within 1 second of each other for an entire main. Aside from the 3 upgrades mentioned, the factory team kit has blue screws and the ability to use either saddle packs or stick pack batteries....some people say that saddle packs are the way to go in order to get better weight distribution....again, most of the people saying that are capable of drriving a whole main with laser precision consistency. They are almost certianly right...but for most of us, we likely won't notice the difference while we wait for a marshal to pick up our truck....

But that's just my 2 cents....
Thanks for that, I am part of the 99% so I will take a look into the RTR plus those upgrades that you mentioned.
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Old 02-22-2012 | 06:30 PM
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i am getting my sc10 4x4 this week. i am putting a castle 3800kv motor/mamba max pro esc combo in it. so my question is will that setup move my sc10 4x4 around very easy?
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Old 02-22-2012 | 06:49 PM
  #17994  
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Originally Posted by darryl80
i am getting my sc10 4x4 this week. i am putting a castle 3800kv motor/mamba max pro esc combo in it. so my question is will that setup move my sc10 4x4 around very easy?
the 3800 is a great motor considering that it is sensorless. Moves the truck very well but it is more like an on and off switch. Read my Sig Tag...I have a truck just like that.

Sal
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Old 02-22-2012 | 06:50 PM
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What pinions should I keep handy for the pro4 4600kv and rx8?
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Old 02-22-2012 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by darryl80
i am getting my sc10 4x4 this week. i am putting a castle 3800kv motor/mamba max pro esc combo in it. so my question is will that setup move my sc10 4x4 around very easy?
Yep, no problem. I ran that combo all last summer on a big 1/8th scale track.
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Old 02-22-2012 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by pakk
What pinions should I keep handy for the pro4 4600kv and rx8?
12-14
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Old 02-22-2012 | 07:59 PM
  #17998  
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So I make the order on Monday for the Bearing mod for you guys. I get a call from the rep today, saying that the bearings are out of stock, and I can't find them anywhere without you guys paying more.

As SOON as I get bearings, I'll be sending them out for guys. I've got the diffs coming and when I posted, the bearings were in stock. /sigh You guys who PM'd me, you're on the list as #1 so no worries. I'll get these out asap, but i'm at the whim of our distributor because I want to keep the costs down for everyone interested.
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Old 02-22-2012 | 08:34 PM
  #17999  
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Originally Posted by PastaBoyNY
the 3800 is a great motor considering that it is sensorless. Moves the truck very well but it is more like an on and off switch. Read my Sig Tag...I have a truck just like that.

Sal
I am running this motor with the SCT Castle speedo and I dont feel that it is an on - off switch at all.
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Old 02-22-2012 | 08:38 PM
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Funny...
Read the FT version of the website...."With the addition of the Factory Team carbon fiber chassis brace rod, the chassis flex has been made more consistent and predictable for an overall improvement in handling and traction"

It should read" We added a chassis brace rod so the truck doesn't break in half, leaving you with a DYI situation"

There is only 1 company to actually talk about issues with there products openly. but they don't make a Electric 1/10 car YET...

I will have to look at the price... dif...
What is the weight dif??? Team vrs the FT??
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