RC10B4.1 FT/WC
That seemed contradicting..I'd still go longer. Is there enough steering and not enough rear grip on corners? There's always a tradeoff. First i'd start with evaluating the car as a whole, chancejeff: Post your setup please. Lately springs have been my thing, i went from 14th place one race to 3rd the next by finding the right spring combo amongst other details
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 21
Forward traction and side bite are different things. the shorter link will increase side bite and cause it to push off power, but will reduce forward traction. If the rear doesn't have as much forward traction/grip then it will increase the amount of steering you have on power. Hope that makes sense. Try it for a couple of laps. Doing this one change made me understand the difference between side bite and forward traction. I never really fully understood before I felt it on track.
To me it feels like any added rear traction equals push in one form or another. With side bite you have less rear rotation, which is driver preference. With more forward traction it causes more push because the car always wants to straighten out when you give it throttle, correct? I run inside hole on the B block, anything longer and it pushed too much for me. Of course changing to orange front and pink rear springs gave me tons of steering and more rotation, the rear comes out easier now but it's minimal and controllable. I'm to the point where i'm 1/2 throttle through the tight sweeper with a 17.5 and only turn full lock when i want the car to pivot and slow way down. Lets just say front tire wear greatly increased too
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 21
I agree with you. Everything is give and take. I always run middle hole in hub, inside on tower. (I race on astro)
There's so much you can change to get it to drive how you want it. The trick is knowing what to change in what order. I'm still learning but happy with how mine feels for most of the time
There's so much you can change to get it to drive how you want it. The trick is knowing what to change in what order. I'm still learning but happy with how mine feels for most of the time
I hear that. Once a good setup is established it's all fine tuning..and practice! I'm a better mechanic than racer, i could spend 10 busy hours building a kit the right way. Shimming everything and being meticulous with it. I guess that's why most of us post in this thread
Happy racing!
Happy racing!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,704
From: Sydney,Australia
Jam, how do you like the ICON motors?
Has anyone thought to use the T4 chassis for their buggy, I know its not "ROAR" legal but for club racing that does not specify the length of a chassis it shouldn't be a big deal. I mocked up a body and it fits, It is appox a 1/4 inch longer than the +8mm chassis. I don't know might be worth a practice session... Let me know what you think
Has anyone thought to use the T4 chassis for their buggy, I know its not "ROAR" legal but for club racing that does not specify the length of a chassis it shouldn't be a big deal. I mocked up a body and it fits, It is appox a 1/4 inch longer than the +8mm chassis. I don't know might be worth a practice session... Let me know what you think







