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Old 02-12-2012 | 10:46 PM
  #11326  
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Originally Posted by NYC Diesel
Hey guys I recently acquired a B4.1 and added a couple things to make it more race worthy like a futaba 4pl transmitter/receiver and s3305 servo, aluminum bulkhead, 8mm chassis and jconcept bar codes w/ groovies up front. I'm trying to figure out which modifications are most beneficial on the race track. I want to buy FT parts but they are ridiculously priced, are there any other options out there ? I want to get:

ball diff
better shocks
aluminum caster blocks

Thanks for any help.
V2 shocks with BB springs and ball diff are a worthy upgrade, but aluminum caster blocks are unnecessary imo.
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Old 02-12-2012 | 11:14 PM
  #11327  
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Originally Posted by NYC Diesel
Hey guys I recently acquired a B4.1 and added a couple things to make it more race worthy like a futaba 4pl transmitter/receiver and s3305 servo, aluminum bulkhead, 8mm chassis and jconcept bar codes w/ groovies up front. I'm trying to figure out which modifications are most beneficial on the race track. I want to buy FT parts but they are ridiculously priced, are there any other options out there ? I want to get:

ball diff
better shocks
aluminum caster blocks

Thanks for any help.
Not to be a jerk, but it sounds as if you should of just got the world's edition to start off. The world's setup is a great baseline to start with + you flavor of tires.

V2 shocks are freat, Cast blocks, 0 hubs....
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Old 02-13-2012 | 05:09 AM
  #11328  
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Originally Posted by idrummerboy13
just bought a whole new diff, rebuilt it 4 times and i feel the balls moving against the rings, i greased it a lot on each side of the rings and the main gear, it feels like the balls need to wear in?

Its not even gritty just catches each ball kinda.. Weird i usually built mint diffs which last a long time.
Sounds like you got a bad pair of thrust washers and/or diff rings. Clean them up and look at them in bright light you should see a fairly irregular surface... grainy almost. If they look normal... swap out thrust balls from a diff known to be smooth... and then diff balls known to be smooth, until you find the issue.

Both diff and thrust balls are said to be size matched... but over the years i have developed a stash of both that are in tubes and if i lose one (it does happen) i just snag a replacement from the tube and i have yet to notice an issue in doing that. So odds are its the rings makin it feel like crap...
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Old 02-13-2012 | 05:16 AM
  #11329  
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Originally Posted by idrummerboy13
just bought a whole new diff, rebuilt it 4 times and i feel the balls moving against the rings, i greased it a lot on each side of the rings and the main gear, it feels like the balls need to wear in?

Its not even gritty just catches each ball kinda.. Weird i usually built mint diffs which last a long time.
...and which grease did you use? The Associated stealth lube has a shelf life. If it's gettin old (or seen extreme temp changes) the silicone separates and the grease loses lubricity.
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Old 02-13-2012 | 05:23 AM
  #11330  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
jumps like a starved cheetah.

Nice kitty .....
LOL

Im still using the short chassis and i was practicing both my B4 and my RC8Te (which was an interesting transition) and was surprised at how much better it jumped after the setup changes. I mean, the car sat for a long time with no use and maintenance so it was due a rebuild anyways...

The last race we had i drove a guys XFactory car with its mid motor config and was impressed how it jumped and its overall stability. My B4 felt on the ragged edge in comparison. Its just nice to know you dont have to buy a new car in offroad every 6 months to be/stay competitive. Just work on it... lol
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Old 02-13-2012 | 10:35 AM
  #11331  
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Default car stand

Has anyone bought the homemade carstand from trips2winracing?
I have and its been 10days with no communication whatsoever!
Did you have any issues?

thx!
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Old 02-13-2012 | 12:26 PM
  #11332  
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Just swapped in Losi BB springs orange front and yellow rear. Are others changing oil wt. or just keeping 30wt frt / 27.5wt rr?
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Old 02-13-2012 | 12:44 PM
  #11333  
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Originally Posted by jamr1130
Just swapped in Losi BB springs orange front and yellow rear. Are others changing oil wt. or just keeping 30wt frt / 27.5wt rr?
I am On them and thay Work well. I am on 30 ft #2 Piston. Rear 22 1/2 #3 Piston.
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Old 02-13-2012 | 12:49 PM
  #11334  
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Originally Posted by jamr1130
Just swapped in Losi BB springs orange front and yellow rear. Are others changing oil wt. or just keeping 30wt frt / 27.5wt rr?
Small Changes are good. I ran the rear losi springs for a club race and the car was better. and then i ran the front next week.. Even Better
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Old 02-13-2012 | 12:49 PM
  #11335  
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when I switched to the BB Springs, I didn't change anything else about my shock setup.

Last edited by Bob Barry; 02-13-2012 at 01:09 PM.
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Old 02-13-2012 | 12:59 PM
  #11336  
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Thanks for the input everyone. I leave it alone and see how it runs this week.
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Old 02-13-2012 | 02:18 PM
  #11337  
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Whats the deal with running the carbon front brace and rear c brace i see a lot of factory setups with this
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Old 02-13-2012 | 02:20 PM
  #11338  
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How would #2 vs. #3 piston handle different on thr track?
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Old 02-13-2012 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by rosko
Whats the deal with running the carbon front brace and rear c brace i see a lot of factory setups with this
less flex with carbon fiber. Flex = tuning option. When you are on a track that is high bite, flex can be your enemy. Low Bite, the exact opposite.
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Old 02-13-2012 | 03:14 PM
  #11340  
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Ran a standard length B4.1 with regular springs this past weekend after running TLR for the past year and I sure hope the longer chassis and TLR BB springs make a difference! I see all the AE guys are running Losi springs but it never seems to be on any of the set up sheets for some reason? So what is the latest and greatest set up for low grip indoor BK bar type track?
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