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Old 02-03-2012 | 11:12 AM
  #16516  
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
Does not apply for assembly. They are all the same.

The numbers on the ball stud or just mold numbers. If they have a number over time that does not form right they can track it down to which one it is.
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Old 02-03-2012 | 11:21 AM
  #16517  
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Originally Posted by johnbugman
ah ha! found them! thanks guys. i heard you should leave bleeder caps out. is this bs or what?
When you build the shocks emulsion style you will need to leave the screw in. Otherwise you will pump oil out the cap every time you compress the shock.

When running bladder style shocks, some people prefer to take the screw out.
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Old 02-03-2012 | 11:22 AM
  #16518  
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Cameron: Any word from DE on a wider offset wheel?
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Old 02-03-2012 | 11:28 AM
  #16519  
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Originally Posted by Chris Jarosz
When you build the shocks emulsion style you will need to leave the screw in. Otherwise you will pump oil out the cap every time you compress the shock.

When running bladder style shocks, some people prefer to take the screw out.
ok got it thanks. im building them for my brother and instructions got crisscrossed in the process.
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Old 02-03-2012 | 11:36 AM
  #16520  
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Originally Posted by johnbugman
just checked shock caps. there is no o rings inside.
Mine were a seperate part inside the kit....(Bag "I". page 22) My shocks came pre-assembled, but the emulsion seals were in bag I...but that was last march in the original run....no ideas what they have done with the recent releases.

the parts you are looking for are the top ones in this set:

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91063/
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Old 02-03-2012 | 12:08 PM
  #16521  
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Originally Posted by jamr1130
I run 30wt front and 27.5 rear for shock oil with FT yellow springs all around. Yellow front and white rear for sway bars. 24mm front and rear ride height. Since you have no slipper or diff mods I would run 30K front and 7K rear for the diffs. I would however suggest getting the center diff from Rcshox.com (what I run now and it is glorious). But if you're not ready for that upgrade I say at the least get the MacTheKnife clutch basket as it a huge improvement over the stock slipper configuration (ran that too). Add a chassis brace to help the belt skip.(I have a couple extra I could let you have for one for pittance.)
Try to read thru this thread there are a bunch of upgrade options you can run that the guys here have come up with that will greatly improve this truck
FYI you are not alone.
What diff oils you running with the center diff? I'm at 5k rear, 7k front, may go 3k/5k to get it swinging around they way I like it.
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Old 02-03-2012 | 12:22 PM
  #16522  
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I believe Mantis is setting mine up with.the two way pistons, bladder.in but screws out. He.removed.the.rubber shaft seals as well.
Wouldnt the bladder pop off though??
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Old 02-03-2012 | 12:53 PM
  #16523  
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Originally Posted by JayL
Cameron: Any word from DE on a wider offset wheel?
I sent him an e-mail today but have not heard back yet. Not sure what the process is to make it happen. Will be AWESOME when they are out though. DE has rear arm guards and a rear bumper skid plate too for the SC10 4w too.
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Old 02-03-2012 | 12:56 PM
  #16524  
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hey quick question. im installing a center ball diff in another sc10 4x4 and noticed the spur gear has a lot of wobble to it still. whats up with that. didnt notice that when installing it on my truck a while back. I can actually grab it and jiggle it back and forth with the nut tightned all the way down.
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Old 02-03-2012 | 01:08 PM
  #16525  
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Originally Posted by johnbugman
hey quick question. im installing a center ball diff in another sc10 4x4 and noticed the spur gear has a lot of wobble to it still. whats up with that. didnt notice that when installing it on my truck a while back. I can actually grab it and jiggle it back and forth with the nut tightned all the way down.
Mine does that too. Doesn't seem to be a problem while it's running.
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Old 02-03-2012 | 01:14 PM
  #16526  
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Originally Posted by johnbugman
hey quick question. im installing a center ball diff in another sc10 4x4 and noticed the spur gear has a lot of wobble to it still. whats up with that. didnt notice that when installing it on my truck a while back. I can actually grab it and jiggle it back and forth with the nut tightned all the way down.
Under rotation it's not going anywhere. Driven mine for 2 months, no tears or messy spurs or anything.

You're good.
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Old 02-03-2012 | 01:19 PM
  #16527  
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ok cool. just seems like the total stackup isn't pinching the spur correctly. If you guys say so im rolling with it thanks. im gonna check my personal truck and see if that wobbles too by hand.
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Old 02-03-2012 | 01:47 PM
  #16528  
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here a quick you tube video of the spur gear wobbling by hand. check it out and see if its normal.


http://youtu.be/e54ZCo5V-80
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Old 02-03-2012 | 01:58 PM
  #16529  
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Originally Posted by johnbugman
here a quick you tube video of the spur gear wobbling by hand. check it out and see if its normal.


http://youtu.be/e54ZCo5V-80
Like I said, Normal.
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Old 02-03-2012 | 02:01 PM
  #16530  
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
Like I said, Normal.
thats fine. just that i checked my personal vehicle and it does not shake like that. hmmm.
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