Whos top 3 in invitational 2wd buggy

I think its Cav, Maifield and Jorn

Invitational Results

Heres the most recent sheet.

Ty looks to be doing well with his inline chassis stuff! I wish BK would do better, kind of sad really.

Is any monobloc thrust bearing is compatible with the b4.1 ball diff (losi...) ?

hi Guys..

Just started racing again after a layoff from the old heart surgery.


Been running SC a couple of weeks now and am stoked about racing again.

I have a B4 I never completed and before I finish it I was wondering how important that 8 mm chassis is for an upgrade.


Not gonna do the other 4.1 mods (well, maybe the rear blocks later on) but the chassis upgrade has me thinking..




Also, I looked at the parts sheets for the 2. Looks like the 4.1 uses the same arms and towers. BUT, the rear suspension holder is different. Anyone know why, I was thinking maybe the trans..


Lastly, the b4.1 is touted as being lipo ready?..what exactly did they do to for that?..Anything I should change suspension wise?


Thanks...did a search and didn't find much except that most people couldn't even tell the difference driving the 2 cars...and they liked the B4 plastics better,,


Indoor racing at Crispy Critters in NJ and Barnstormers. Smallish tracks, jumps etc. Basically hard packed dirt/clay.

Mod class with a 13.5..


Whatcha think?...Worth doing?

Hope you are feeling better!
I don't have an answer for you on the parts issue...I found most were interchangeable except a few.
Lipo ready is just marketing speak...probably when the B4 came out, lipo was not that popular...now it's just assumed...technically it would have more to do with if your esc can handle lipo and has a cutoff option to prevent the batteries from puffing below 3V or what have you...

The car will be plenty fine for racing...shocks would be a good upgrade eventually...If the track is really small, I'm not sure the 8mm chassis extension is a good idea...

I think Lipo ready is most prominent with the new B4.1 rear tower that had a taller center section to fit in taller Lipo batteries. There is not a lot that changed, but do not want to tell you the specifics because I would rather not tell you at all, then to tell you the wrong information.

The +8 chassis is nice to have, but I still run the regular chassis, and the car feels great.

My suggestion would be just to build the car, and run it! If you do run a 13.5 in mod, I would start gearing at 30/75. Should be a pretty safe, reasonable gearing combo.

And I agree with the shorter chassis. I'm figuring the car will rotate better around corners...


Thanks for taking the time to answer...


and yes, I am feeling great...Six Bypasses, LOL...


Thanks for the good wishes

I checked the shock towers and both are the same number...The only thing different was the flat piece on the bottom of the car that held the rear hinge pins..


I will build it as is....Thanks for the tip on gearing..

Quck question guys I am going to be picking up a b4.1 and t4.1 and was wondering if I would have any issues running the Savox SC1258TG or SC1257TG with a Tekin RS? Will I need a glitch buster?

ThunderbirdJunkie runs an RS Pro with a 1258 in his SCT and a Futaba Rx, no issues. All depends on the radio. Spektrums are more spotty when it comes to Savox servos.

The rear towers are the same part number but they made a running change. Most racers would drill a 4th inner hole for the top of the shock, they updated this by removing the outer most hole and adding the inner hole. You most likely have the older tower so any setup sheets that call for the inner hole you would have to drill.

Great thanks ... I dont run Spektrum so I should be good.