I had this setup in mine and I think its to much motor for racing . I also trashed a set of bearings and striped out a hex . If you have expo mess with that or use the castle link to turn the punch down. If its not running hot gear it up . I was running mine 24/81 with no prob .

Hi,

I'm an on-road guy during the winter and lose track of the off-road stuff. I've read several pages back, and just wanted to know why people are doing the hex conversion to the SC10?

Is it better front wheel bearings?

Or that you can use the same rims on the front and rear of the truck?

Thanks Greg G

Tire rotation and easier wheel removal for cleaning (no playing with bearings, easier than pins). That's about all.

I used the AE hex kit and it works pretty well, but I want to upgrade to something that has a set screw for holding the nut onto the wheel. The AE hex's don't snap onto the pin so the hex adaptor comes off with the wheel.

Probably not a big deal to most people, but the reason I did the hex conversion is so I can buy one set of each type of tire and share with my sc104x4. Since I may have both races back-to-back I need to be able to change the wheels quickly.

Installed one on my B4.1 & SC10. Very nice pieces you won't be disappointed.

Just wondering if you can help me compare my shock set up to another. I am running the FT setup of #1 ft and #3 pistons rear with 30wt all around. Blue spring in front silver in the rear. Compared to 32.5wt in front 27.5 wt rear with #2 pistons all around and blue front and green rear springs. About how different are they?? What will the difference in handling be like??

I'm trying to compare my setup to someone else who probably knows a little more about setup. Thanks
Mark

I have the trinity d3 and to get my pinion set to where it is even with the spur, the flat spot on the motor shaft starts too high so the set screw it on the round part not the flat groove.

Has anyone else had this problem?

Flip the pinion?

Duh! I guess that would work! Is the part where the set screw sits supposed to be on the side opposite the motor?

Are these the correct losi springs to use? The AE springs, at least on the stock kit, have way to much side bend and are scraping up my shocks:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...g-Tuning-Set-8

Yes,but really which ever way your pinion will line up direct to the spur and your set screw can tighten up to the flat part of the shaft. Some cars the pinion goes on normal and some you have to flip it around.

No, Those are for the TEN-SCTE

Use the ones for the 22

Save your money, NO.

You want rear springs off a 22.

I have a house full of Swedish Ikea furniture, I have GHEA shock collars that cost me $$$. They are both fab, and both worth the money if you wish to do a big bore conversion.

No need to glue unless you want to make sure you are getting direct steering. If you are a new driver, leave it unglued. If you are not crashing that much, you may want to consider glueing. Also depends on your servo. If it is a metal one, it should be able to handle more abuse that a plastic one.

Thanks, I noticed that as well before pulling the trigger. Ended up with the AE front spring kit, and then the rear 22's: 2.3, 2.6 & 3.4