RC10B4.1 FT/WC
#9782
I am actually thinking about drilling a hole in the chassis the way ryan does, much nicer,also will throw the transponder in front of the servo.
It looks funny on top
I like my glued servo savor
That battery will be in my kit once I can get the shop to order, Ill pick between the short packs or that wolf pack. I think my kit can move faster in the tight sections with that battery, All the fast guys here switched over to it..to bad reedy is out
It looks funny on top

I like my glued servo savor

That battery will be in my kit once I can get the shop to order, Ill pick between the short packs or that wolf pack. I think my kit can move faster in the tight sections with that battery, All the fast guys here switched over to it..to bad reedy is out
#9784
#9785
Zero degree factory team hubs. I'm pretty sure that the carbon piece is not the C plate though. I think it's the same as the A but made out of carbon fiber. I can ask him tomorrow when i go down to the rcfactory where they are running at to be sure.
#9786
I am actually thinking about drilling a hole in the chassis the way ryan does, much nicer,also will throw the transponder in front of the servo.
It looks funny on top
I like my glued servo savor
That battery will be in my kit once I can get the shop to order, Ill pick between the short packs or that wolf pack. I think my kit can move faster in the tight sections with that battery, All the fast guys here switched over to it..to bad reedy is out
It looks funny on top

I like my glued servo savor

That battery will be in my kit once I can get the shop to order, Ill pick between the short packs or that wolf pack. I think my kit can move faster in the tight sections with that battery, All the fast guys here switched over to it..to bad reedy is out

We actually just got the shorty pack back in stock! So order now, because they are going fast!
#9787
Please do. I was wondering about that carbon piece.
#9790
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
The larger rotor gives you less of a useable powerband. Its definitely punchy, and brakes come on harder (drag and push). I went back to the standard rotor and worked on my speedo settings...
*EDIT*
I wanted to add to that i was using the Works 13.0mm rotor. There are two 13.0mm rotors...
*EDIT*
I wanted to add to that i was using the Works 13.0mm rotor. There are two 13.0mm rotors...

Track today is going to be so loose (brand new layout, no groove yet) so it's going to be hard to really put any power down yet.
#9792
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,293
From: Henderson, NV
Actually you'll want the 80430. There is a long thread on here about 2-stage pistons that got me intrigued. Initially I ran a different brand and was happy with the performance, but not with the fit, so I switched to the RPMs. I'm running a T4.1, and use the red pistons with 25wt front and rear. When our local "fast guy" drove my truck (per my request to see if it felt like it pushed to much to him) he kept asking my about my suspension because of the feel. He's running a b4.1 with reds and 30wt now. I'm not sure if he has run any lighter weights for testing or not. 30wt felt to heavy to me, as my truck would bounce down the rougher parts of the track (just like it did with the stock AE pistons and 30wt). With my current setup, the chassis stays level and the suspension works it's butt of in the rough areas. So, my opinion is that the real advantage with the 2-stage pistons is when the track gets rough, my lap times stay more consistent whereas the others slow a little more due to the bouncing. When the track is smooth, there appears to be little to no advantage as I see it.
Do they last forever? Not sure yet. They appear to be made from the same material that RPM uses for everything. Based on that, they probably will last a LONG time.
What kind of washer setup do you use at the shock body bottom? Are you talking about the spacers for limiting? I run the stock numbers and am happy with the results thus far. However, I haven't done any testing in this area.
Can you safely go with some pretty stiff springs using these? If you want to, I don't see why not. I tried silvers in the rear because my truck is a little heavier in the rear due to an oversize aftermarket wing, but I ended up going back to green.
LMK if I can answer/clarify anything or help in any way.
Do they last forever? Not sure yet. They appear to be made from the same material that RPM uses for everything. Based on that, they probably will last a LONG time.
What kind of washer setup do you use at the shock body bottom? Are you talking about the spacers for limiting? I run the stock numbers and am happy with the results thus far. However, I haven't done any testing in this area.
Can you safely go with some pretty stiff springs using these? If you want to, I don't see why not. I tried silvers in the rear because my truck is a little heavier in the rear due to an oversize aftermarket wing, but I ended up going back to green.
LMK if I can answer/clarify anything or help in any way.
You the man... when I finally looked those up (RPM part no.80420) they look like a good approximation of what I'm talking about. So, go on, is everything great with these? Do they last forever? What kind of washer setup do you use at the shock body bottom? Can you safely go with some pretty stiff springs using these? Details, please! (as you can tell, pretty excited about the idea of these things, just wondering about the execution)
#9793
I'm going from the standard 12.5 down to the 12.0mm I understand what it's supposed to do, was just wondering if anyone else tried it and had thoughts on it 
Track today is going to be so loose (brand new layout, no groove yet) so it's going to be hard to really put any power down yet.

Track today is going to be so loose (brand new layout, no groove yet) so it's going to be hard to really put any power down yet.
Comin from TC (AWD with far more grip than most dirt tracks) i never needed the 12.0mm. But if going from the 12.5 to the 12.0 is anything like going from a 13.0 to the 12.5... id say you will like it a lot on a slippery surface. Both of us made a step down in rotor size for traction/control.
With the Tekin RS i had to add 6-8 more boost on the 12.5 compared to the 13.0, and the 12.5 was far easier to throttle. The trigger felt more in the middle than the top 1/3rd with the 13.0.





