RC10B4.1 FT/WC
01-14-2012 | 04:00 PM
#9766
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 114
From: N/A
Is anyone running the 25* caster blocks i have 30* on and im looking for more steering with out loosing rear traction , i run on a real small track (mod and stk are about the same lap times about 14 sec for the average guy) any help would be great . Andhow many people run drag break?
Drag brake is a preference, personally I dont care for it.
01-14-2012 | 04:42 PM
#9767
Ft
#1 piston , 35w , 2 x .030 limiter, silver 12m Losi BB spring
Shock =inside on tower & outside on arm
Camber stud 1 X .030 limiter
Camber link inside on tower & inside on caster 30 degree
1/4oz in ft corners & 1/2 oz in ft of servo
*graphite nose plate & ft arms
24m ride height
1/4oz in back corners & Ae ballast weight next to transmission
Rear
#2 piston ,27.5w, 2 x.030 limiter, white Losi 12mBB spring
Shock = Inside on arm & tower & 1 x .030 under ball stud on u brace
camber link = inside on U brace & middle on hub
Rear hub = 0 degree ,mounted in middle , 3 degree toe block, 2 degree anti squat
24 m ride height
*Plastic rear arm
*Carbon U brace
Tire
JConcept Gold Bar Code
Track conditions
Smooth Clay , lots of shape corners, no hard landings , med traction ...
We are having the Pacific N/w ShootOut next weekend , this is what the guys are using including me ...
#1 piston , 35w , 2 x .030 limiter, silver 12m Losi BB spring
Shock =inside on tower & outside on arm
Camber stud 1 X .030 limiter
Camber link inside on tower & inside on caster 30 degree
1/4oz in ft corners & 1/2 oz in ft of servo
*graphite nose plate & ft arms
24m ride height
1/4oz in back corners & Ae ballast weight next to transmission
Rear
#2 piston ,27.5w, 2 x.030 limiter, white Losi 12mBB spring
Shock = Inside on arm & tower & 1 x .030 under ball stud on u brace
camber link = inside on U brace & middle on hub
Rear hub = 0 degree ,mounted in middle , 3 degree toe block, 2 degree anti squat
24 m ride height
*Plastic rear arm
*Carbon U brace
Tire
JConcept Gold Bar Code
Track conditions
Smooth Clay , lots of shape corners, no hard landings , med traction ...
We are having the Pacific N/w ShootOut next weekend , this is what the guys are using including me ...
01-14-2012 | 04:45 PM
#9768
LMK if you could... my LHS doesnt have any in stock so i would have to order them before next weekends race... thanx a ton.
01-14-2012 | 05:34 PM
#9771
I've run a +12 on mine on a tight indoor track. It was easy to drive but I had a hard time turning quick lap times with it. I had to fight the car too much to turn in. I've also run the standard chassis and the +8. I prefer the +8 out of the three. Now if I could only learn how to drive...
01-14-2012 | 07:08 PM
#9772
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
Hey have any of you guys tried the LRP X12 motors with the optional 12.0 mm Rotor? Just curious to see how you guys liked it. I just put mine in and am going to try it tomorrow for the first time.
01-14-2012 | 07:14 PM
#9773
a freind of mine bought his 11 year old son a b4.1 rtr with the brushless in it. after the first heat race he put it up and said he would never race again,
it is very hard for me to make a pipe free lap with the thing (and i have raced for years) he can not make it off the starting line without hitting something.
i know the stock tires suck, but other than that what can i do to make this thing drivable to a new kid, i talked him in to letting me try to fix it for him.
any ideas would be great. thanks guys
it is very hard for me to make a pipe free lap with the thing (and i have raced for years) he can not make it off the starting line without hitting something.
i know the stock tires suck, but other than that what can i do to make this thing drivable to a new kid, i talked him in to letting me try to fix it for him.
any ideas would be great. thanks guys
01-14-2012 | 07:31 PM
#9774
tires are 90% of your setup....or more perhaps.
the right tires will make a WORLD of a difference, you need to find out what the fast guys in the 2wd mod a-main at your track are running and run EXACTLY what tires/inserts they are running. Make sure to run the identical compound as well and ask them if they are doing any prepwork like ghosting/clipping etc.
I would look at the EPA on the high side of throttle as well, possibly limit some power/speed until he gets comfortable?
GL man, I hope things come together for you guys
the right tires will make a WORLD of a difference, you need to find out what the fast guys in the 2wd mod a-main at your track are running and run EXACTLY what tires/inserts they are running. Make sure to run the identical compound as well and ask them if they are doing any prepwork like ghosting/clipping etc.
I would look at the EPA on the high side of throttle as well, possibly limit some power/speed until he gets comfortable?
GL man, I hope things come together for you guys
01-14-2012 | 07:35 PM
#9775
tires are 90% of your setup....or more perhaps.
the right tires will make a WORLD of a difference, you need to find out what the fast guys in the 2wd mod a-main at your track are running and run EXACTLY what tires/inserts they are running. Make sure to run the identical compound as well and ask them if they are doing any prepwork like ghosting/clipping etc.
the right tires will make a WORLD of a difference, you need to find out what the fast guys in the 2wd mod a-main at your track are running and run EXACTLY what tires/inserts they are running. Make sure to run the identical compound as well and ask them if they are doing any prepwork like ghosting/clipping etc.
is there any way to make the power come in softer or reduce the power with the rtr set-up.
01-14-2012 | 07:42 PM
#9776
01-14-2012 | 08:26 PM
#9778
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 39
From: Waddell, AZ
The rack definitely looks like the AvidRC rack. Some other unusual stuff I noticed was the different shock collars. The rear look like the same one Cav uses...possibly GHEA. The front collars look different almost plastic. It also looks like he is running a SC10 motor guard (other pic from LiveRC).
01-14-2012 | 09:08 PM
#9779
You the man... when I finally looked those up (RPM part no.80420) they look like a good approximation of what I'm talking about. So, go on, is everything great with these? Do they last forever? What kind of washer setup do you use at the shock body bottom? Can you safely go with some pretty stiff springs using these? Details, please! (as you can tell, pretty excited about the idea of these things, just wondering about the execution)
01-14-2012 | 09:12 PM
#9780
*EDIT*
I wanted to add to that i was using the Works 13.0mm rotor. There are two 13.0mm rotors...
Last edited by DaveW; 01-14-2012 at 09:54 PM.