Super saver is great. They actually just lowered the price to 249.00 it was 269.00 a few days ago. Might have to pick up my third just to have for parts.

You've been asking questions that took a simple Forum search since you started posting in the thread. IE: not reading 1000 pages.

The Answer to your Question is :PAGE ONE:

Ok I am running yellow in the rear as well, the only thing I could think of is going to the outside hole on the bottom to stiffen the suspension up some. But before you make any changes I would check ride height though. It could be something simple like your ride height is to low. I have seen video's of ECH the jumps arent huge so how are you landing? If you are landing way past the landing maybe thats the promblem and your suspension bottoms out. I know that if I overjump my truck smacks the ground. Sorry for all the questions just trying to help you out

It's probably the ride height. I had it slammed because I kept spinning out. When removing the preload fixed that. The driving is also part of the problem, I'm still new to this. I will try a little more preload and move the shocks outside and try that. Thanks!

Updated Pics on Truck. I didn't clean the truck like I wanted to, but it is what it is!

Evil,

See me the next time you are at ECH. I will get you dialed in. My car is the green matrix looking body. Same color as my avatar pic.

Mark

Yes definatly see Mark, he will have your truck driving on rails!

Thanks Chad!!

I'm kinda pissed at my LHS guys, I'm good friends with them so not big deal, but called up asking if they had ball diff grease specifically, said they did, when I got there they tried to sell me some HPI heavy duty gear grease, or some marine grease. Ended up buying the HPI anyway and going to see if it's much diffrent that what I already had.

I know it's hard to describe, but what makes the ball grease different front the regular stuff? Is it thinner or thicker or just less slick than normal?

As with any RC, never assume that the kid in china putting it together based on a template and 30mins of training can do a better job than you. Take apart anything pre-built and re do it. If you got the kit, then it's the diffs and shocks, if you got the RTR, follow the diff removal guide re-posted a few pages back to get at and reassemble the diffs same with the shocks (may want to go emulsion if rtr is bladder not sure what the setup is) and make sure the pinion screw and motor mount screws have loctite.

Save yourself the trouble - it won't work. Regular grease is a lubricant, diff lube is like glue that never dries.

They didn't have any AE Stealth diff lube in stock? Wow.

That new frog tape stuff works pretty well. Just make sure you get the lines completely pressed down so nothing creeps under it.

Yes, there are those that do it. I have no idea as to what pinion they run, but I have seen guys that run that combo at the track. I would start with a 14 pinion and see what happens. The rtr is a 3500 kv motor just like the trx....(14 stock). See if it can turn that pinion. It isn't super fast, but it does do the job.

It's hobbytown, I was surprised they had anything close. There is another smaller track/shop nearby, but no one answered and it was getting close to closing time for them. Probably going up there tomorrow as is for a little Friday night ad-hoc bash racing. They are big on on-road stuff so I bet they have it and the 7k diff fluid I need.

Yup. I never thought my truck would be as good as it is now. I allways had trouble at bumps getting bumped around by the losi and getting knocked into a pipe but with your setup, well I dont have to be the victim anymore.