RC10B4.1 FT/WC
#9466
The oil in the back is 30wt, looks like the RTR 4.1 comes with #1 pistons in the back - where do I find #2 pistons and what's the difference, just smaller holes? I was definitely thinking blue might be too much but Hobby Town was out of that day and for $2, it was an impulse buy. Thankfully I didn't grab the reds! Also, seemed like the silvers weren't a real big difference (1.90 vs. 2.10 lbs) but it's funny what a massive difference the blues are over the blacks - so you have a good point there.
So to adjust pack, the holes in the piston are wider on top, smaller on the bottom, yeah?
"Pack" is another name for "high-speed" dampening. The simple way to describe it is how much stiffer the dampening gets when the piston is moving at high speed. An example "high speed" piston movement would be when you're hitting a jump face or landing off of a jump. "Low speed" dampening is when the chassis is rolling over to the side as you turn into a corner. When you increase pack, you're making the dampening stiffer only when the shock is moving quickly. The way to do this is to use smaller - and/or fewer - holes in a shock piston. In theory, doing this won't affect your low speed dampening. So in your case, using #2 or #3 pistons with the same oil you currently have will increase the pack which will help lessen the bottoming out, and while it could also affect the handling in the corners, that affect won't be as severe or noticeable.
I like your advice about just changing my driving style. I was trying something similar to what you described this morning, and that method makes a whole lot of sense. Seems like you can get into more trouble than it's worth by changing parts, when you could just change the way you drive for free.

I do like the way the car handles with the stiffer springs, seems to bite more in the back in corners and overall just handles a little more aggressively.
Don't take this the wrong way, (not trying to question a vet's answer here) but isn't there a way to make the shock and spring setup progressive enough to effectively *eliminate* bottoming out? (Without completely destroying handling elsewhere) I mean, it seems like there'd be a way to engineer a two-stage progression to the shocks (maybe two internal chambers?), where small bumps would be absorbed by the first piston in the first chamber, and a huge slam would kick in a second, much higher level of dampening--Kind of like how a three-piece golf ball has progressive layers that come into play the harder you hit the ball.
#9467
Sounds like your coming off the throttle too soon in the jump, you want throttle till your back tires are just off the ground, then your car will be pointing up, when you let off the throttle, the car's nose will drop slightly.
Practice adjusting it in the air. Not only does it help you TREMENDOUSLY racing people, it looks bad ass when you do it. I love flying over someone and turning my wheels back and forth in the air while i blip my throttle...
Practice adjusting it in the air. Not only does it help you TREMENDOUSLY racing people, it looks bad ass when you do it. I love flying over someone and turning my wheels back and forth in the air while i blip my throttle...
#9468
Does anyone else on this thread agree that the front hex axles that use a "C" clip to keep the bearings apart is a bad design?
I keep getting one wheel that rolls nice and free, and one that is somewhat "bound" up...
I keep getting one wheel that rolls nice and free, and one that is somewhat "bound" up...
#9469

if you don't like the c clip ?
Make a bearing spacer or crush tube that fits..
#9470
Is there something better about the rs stuff? I was thinking of grabbing the hub and axle from ae. .. same as the rs I assume... and adding the proline alu hex.
The proline hex/jc mono wheel is what I had in mind too. I don't really like the less bright white of the proline wheels.
The proline hex/jc mono wheel is what I had in mind too. I don't really like the less bright white of the proline wheels.
There is the Proline kit.
I hear good and bad things about it.
To much slop. Doesn't give the factory stock offset. I think it adds 1mm or so.
I like keeping it factory and would use the RS parts. it's about the same price. you can even use the #9883 stuff to convert the rear. That package includes front and rear hex's
My truck was the RS so I use those but I added a set screw to the front hex to keep them on the axle. I use Jconcepts rear alum. hex
I only converted my Buggy to Hex in the rear though
#9471
This is the reason why I haven't converted any of my cars to hex fronts. The stock bearing-in-wheel setup has worked for a very long time with no issues. I've seen conversions that have severe play, binding, etc. and don't want to risk it.
JC rear hexes have been awesome though....
JC rear hexes have been awesome though....
#9472
This is the reason why I haven't converted any of my cars to hex fronts. The stock bearing-in-wheel setup has worked for a very long time with no issues. I've seen conversions that have severe play, binding, etc. and don't want to risk it.
JC rear hexes have been awesome though....
JC rear hexes have been awesome though....
#9473
Close, but that's not quite it.
"Pack" is another name for "high-speed" dampening. The simple way to describe it is how much stiffer the dampening gets when the piston is moving at high speed. ... So in your case, using #2 or #3 pistons with the same oil you currently have will increase the pack which will help lessen the bottoming out, and while it could also affect the handling in the corners, that affect won't be as severe or noticeable.
"Pack" is another name for "high-speed" dampening. The simple way to describe it is how much stiffer the dampening gets when the piston is moving at high speed. ... So in your case, using #2 or #3 pistons with the same oil you currently have will increase the pack which will help lessen the bottoming out, and while it could also affect the handling in the corners, that affect won't be as severe or noticeable.Any engineers/machinists in here feel like fabbing up some "multi-stage" shocks for around $30/pair? Anyone? Hello?
Thanks again for taking the time. Don't worry, I won't be asking about K shocks or big bores or what Cav's setup was.. for at least 2 more years. (see, I *have* been reading this thread a lot!)
Last edited by jf+; 01-09-2012 at 12:36 PM. Reason: fixed quoting
#9474
I was asking about people that have had the same problem, not the people that it has worked out just fine for. But in noticing that you have posted OVER 15 thousand times on one thread, that tells me that you will ALWAYS have to throw your opinions out there regardless of what the question is...STFU for a bit wild cherry !
#9475
"I'll pay fifty dollars for one!"
Any engineers/machinists in here feel like fabbing up some "multi-stage" shocks for around $30/pair? Anyone? Hello?
Thanks again for taking the time. Don't worry, I won't be asking about K shocks or big bores or what Cav's setup was.. for at least 2 more years. (see, I *have* been reading this thread a lot!)
Any engineers/machinists in here feel like fabbing up some "multi-stage" shocks for around $30/pair? Anyone? Hello?
Thanks again for taking the time. Don't worry, I won't be asking about K shocks or big bores or what Cav's setup was.. for at least 2 more years. (see, I *have* been reading this thread a lot!)

Others have tried, but the facts are the 1/10th shock is so small ? They do not work like the full size shocks that use multi-stage pistons.
#9476
I was asking about people that have had the same problem, not the people that it has worked out just fine for. But in noticing that you have posted OVER 15 thousand times on one thread, that tells me that you will ALWAYS have to throw your opinions out there regardless of what the question is...STFU for a bit wild cherry !

Just to help you
If you have bent the clip or what ever? Then you could have issues with binding.
BTW
yes, I do have mass posts , one of the first 10 to join this board many , many moons ago
#9477
I was asking about people that have had the same problem, not the people that it has worked out just fine for. But in noticing that you have posted OVER 15 thousand times on one thread, that tells me that you will ALWAYS have to throw your opinions out there regardless of what the question is...STFU for a bit wild cherry !
It's a opinion. Welcome to the internet. EVERYTHING anyone says is a opinion. we are not all 100% the same in thought.
You asked a question. Did you really think only the people who agree with you are going to post about it?
I run the style with C-clips on the axle. Yes I have toasted a bearing. It cost me 2 bucks to fix.. not that big of a deal. Each has it's pro/con..
wild cherry Has added some damn good info, that I know for a fact lots of people have used.
Play nice
#9478
I might do this just to try it, and get my hands dirty. Bought this thing to be able to tinker around.. Do you think changing to the #2 pistons (and all the work involved) is a better move, or should I just step down to the silver springs? I guess what I mean is, all things being equal, would going from a 2.55lb spring (blue) to a 2.1lb spring (silver) be about the same as changing from #1 to #2 pistons on the 2.55 blue springs -- with respect to reducing bottoming out without causing too much bounce, and maintaining good rear turn-in?[/b]
#9479


lap times mean alot lol





