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Old 01-09-2012 | 11:55 AM
  #9466  
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Originally Posted by jf+
The oil in the back is 30wt, looks like the RTR 4.1 comes with #1 pistons in the back - where do I find #2 pistons and what's the difference, just smaller holes? I was definitely thinking blue might be too much but Hobby Town was out of that day and for $2, it was an impulse buy. Thankfully I didn't grab the reds! Also, seemed like the silvers weren't a real big difference (1.90 vs. 2.10 lbs) but it's funny what a massive difference the blues are over the blacks - so you have a good point there.
If you buy a set of 1/10th scale AE pistons, that will include the #1, #2 and #3 hole pistons. #1s have the largest holes, #2s are smaller, #3s are smaller still.



So to adjust pack, the holes in the piston are wider on top, smaller on the bottom, yeah?
Close, but that's not quite it. "Pack" is another name for "high-speed" dampening. The simple way to describe it is how much stiffer the dampening gets when the piston is moving at high speed. An example "high speed" piston movement would be when you're hitting a jump face or landing off of a jump. "Low speed" dampening is when the chassis is rolling over to the side as you turn into a corner. When you increase pack, you're making the dampening stiffer only when the shock is moving quickly. The way to do this is to use smaller - and/or fewer - holes in a shock piston. In theory, doing this won't affect your low speed dampening. So in your case, using #2 or #3 pistons with the same oil you currently have will increase the pack which will help lessen the bottoming out, and while it could also affect the handling in the corners, that affect won't be as severe or noticeable.

I like your advice about just changing my driving style. I was trying something similar to what you described this morning, and that method makes a whole lot of sense. Seems like you can get into more trouble than it's worth by changing parts, when you could just change the way you drive for free.
Absolutely. It's rare for a car to be undriveable. It's what you do at the radio that matters a whole lot more.

I do like the way the car handles with the stiffer springs, seems to bite more in the back in corners and overall just handles a little more aggressively.
If it feels better and turns faster laps, go with it! That's the whole idea in the exercise. lol

Don't take this the wrong way, (not trying to question a vet's answer here) but isn't there a way to make the shock and spring setup progressive enough to effectively *eliminate* bottoming out? (Without completely destroying handling elsewhere) I mean, it seems like there'd be a way to engineer a two-stage progression to the shocks (maybe two internal chambers?), where small bumps would be absorbed by the first piston in the first chamber, and a huge slam would kick in a second, much higher level of dampening--Kind of like how a three-piece golf ball has progressive layers that come into play the harder you hit the ball.
Yes, it's possible, but the "correct" solution would make the shocks extremely expensive. If you look at motorcycle/auto/full-size off-road shocks, there are lots of solutions to low- medium- and high-speed dampening that work very well. The problem is that those shocks have a lot of extra parts in them. Trying to scale down those part sizes to something that would work on our cars would take extremely precise machining, and the price on the finished shock would be outrageous. For example, a single Ohlins rear shock for a full size sport bike is $600-1000. I would expect shocks for our cars with that technology would cost about that much.
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Old 01-09-2012 | 11:57 AM
  #9467  
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Sounds like your coming off the throttle too soon in the jump, you want throttle till your back tires are just off the ground, then your car will be pointing up, when you let off the throttle, the car's nose will drop slightly.

Practice adjusting it in the air. Not only does it help you TREMENDOUSLY racing people, it looks bad ass when you do it. I love flying over someone and turning my wheels back and forth in the air while i blip my throttle...
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Old 01-09-2012 | 11:58 AM
  #9468  
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Does anyone else on this thread agree that the front hex axles that use a "C" clip to keep the bearings apart is a bad design? I keep getting one wheel that rolls nice and free, and one that is somewhat "bound" up...
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Old 01-09-2012 | 12:02 PM
  #9469  
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Originally Posted by bilster44
Does anyone else on this thread agree that the front hex axles that use a "C" clip to keep the bearings apart is a bad design? I keep getting one wheel that rolls nice and free, and one that is somewhat "bound" up...
NOT AT ALL ,IT PERFORMS JUST FINE....

if you don't like the c clip ?

Make a bearing spacer or crush tube that fits..
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Old 01-09-2012 | 12:06 PM
  #9470  
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Originally Posted by Timmahhh
Is there something better about the rs stuff? I was thinking of grabbing the hub and axle from ae. .. same as the rs I assume... and adding the proline alu hex.



The proline hex/jc mono wheel is what I had in mind too. I don't really like the less bright white of the proline wheels.


There is the Proline kit.

I hear good and bad things about it.
To much slop. Doesn't give the factory stock offset. I think it adds 1mm or so.

I like keeping it factory and would use the RS parts. it's about the same price. you can even use the #9883 stuff to convert the rear. That package includes front and rear hex's

My truck was the RS so I use those but I added a set screw to the front hex to keep them on the axle. I use Jconcepts rear alum. hex

I only converted my Buggy to Hex in the rear though
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Old 01-09-2012 | 12:27 PM
  #9471  
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This is the reason why I haven't converted any of my cars to hex fronts. The stock bearing-in-wheel setup has worked for a very long time with no issues. I've seen conversions that have severe play, binding, etc. and don't want to risk it.

JC rear hexes have been awesome though....
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Old 01-09-2012 | 12:31 PM
  #9472  
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Originally Posted by Asharus
This is the reason why I haven't converted any of my cars to hex fronts. The stock bearing-in-wheel setup has worked for a very long time with no issues. I've seen conversions that have severe play, binding, etc. and don't want to risk it.

JC rear hexes have been awesome though....
Ae hex fits tighter, less slop than the old bearing in the wheel design
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Old 01-09-2012 | 12:33 PM
  #9473  
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Originally Posted by SkarTisu
If you buy a set of 1/10th scale AE pistons, that will include the #1, #2 and #3 hole pistons. #1s have the largest holes, #2s are smaller, #3s are smaller still.
Gotcha.

Originally Posted by SkarTisu
Close, but that's not quite it. "Pack" is another name for "high-speed" dampening. The simple way to describe it is how much stiffer the dampening gets when the piston is moving at high speed. ... So in your case, using #2 or #3 pistons with the same oil you currently have will increase the pack which will help lessen the bottoming out, and while it could also affect the handling in the corners, that affect won't be as severe or noticeable.
I might do this just to try it, and get my hands dirty. Bought this thing to be able to tinker around.. Do you think changing to the #2 pistons (and all the work involved) is a better move, or should I just step down to the silver springs? I guess what I mean is, all things being equal, would going from a 2.55lb spring (blue) to a 2.1lb spring (silver) be about the same as changing from #1 to #2 pistons on the 2.55 blue springs -- with respect to reducing bottoming out without causing too much bounce, and maintaining good rear turn-in?[/B]


Originally Posted by SkarTisu
Yes, it's possible, but the "correct" solution would make the shocks extremely expensive.
"I'll pay fifty dollars for one!"

Any engineers/machinists in here feel like fabbing up some "multi-stage" shocks for around $30/pair? Anyone? Hello?

Thanks again for taking the time. Don't worry, I won't be asking about K shocks or big bores or what Cav's setup was.. for at least 2 more years. (see, I *have* been reading this thread a lot!)

Last edited by jf+; 01-09-2012 at 12:36 PM. Reason: fixed quoting
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Old 01-09-2012 | 12:34 PM
  #9474  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
NOT AT ALL ,IT PERFORMS JUST FINE....

if you don't like the c clip ?

Make a bearing spacer or crush tube that fits..
I was asking about people that have had the same problem, not the people that it has worked out just fine for. But in noticing that you have posted OVER 15 thousand times on one thread, that tells me that you will ALWAYS have to throw your opinions out there regardless of what the question is...STFU for a bit wild cherry !
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Old 01-09-2012 | 12:37 PM
  #9475  
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Originally Posted by jf+
"I'll pay fifty dollars for one!"

Any engineers/machinists in here feel like fabbing up some "multi-stage" shocks for around $30/pair? Anyone? Hello?

Thanks again for taking the time. Don't worry, I won't be asking about K shocks or big bores or what Cav's setup was.. for at least 2 more years. (see, I *have* been reading this thread a lot!)


Others have tried, but the facts are the 1/10th shock is so small ? They do not work like the full size shocks that use multi-stage pistons.
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Old 01-09-2012 | 12:42 PM
  #9476  
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Originally Posted by bilster44
I was asking about people that have had the same problem, not the people that it has worked out just fine for. But in noticing that you have posted OVER 15 thousand times on one thread, that tells me that you will ALWAYS have to throw your opinions out there regardless of what the question is...STFU for a bit wild cherry !
No need to be so butt hurt...

Just to help you
If you have bent the clip or what ever? Then you could have issues with binding.

BTW
yes, I do have mass posts , one of the first 10 to join this board many , many moons ago
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Old 01-09-2012 | 12:45 PM
  #9477  
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Originally Posted by bilster44
Does anyone else on this thread agree that the front hex axles that use a "C" clip to keep the bearings apart is a bad design? I keep getting one wheel that rolls nice and free, and one that is somewhat "bound" up...
Originally Posted by bilster44
I was asking about people that have had the same problem, not the people that it has worked out just fine for. But in noticing that you have posted OVER 15 thousand times on one thread, that tells me that you will ALWAYS have to throw your opinions out there regardless of what the question is...STFU for a bit wild cherry !
Chill out there.

It's a opinion. Welcome to the internet. EVERYTHING anyone says is a opinion. we are not all 100% the same in thought.

You asked a question. Did you really think only the people who agree with you are going to post about it?

I run the style with C-clips on the axle. Yes I have toasted a bearing. It cost me 2 bucks to fix.. not that big of a deal. Each has it's pro/con..

wild cherry Has added some damn good info, that I know for a fact lots of people have used.

Play nice
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Old 01-09-2012 | 12:48 PM
  #9478  
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Originally Posted by jf+
I might do this just to try it, and get my hands dirty. Bought this thing to be able to tinker around.. Do you think changing to the #2 pistons (and all the work involved) is a better move, or should I just step down to the silver springs? I guess what I mean is, all things being equal, would going from a 2.55lb spring (blue) to a 2.1lb spring (silver) be about the same as changing from #1 to #2 pistons on the 2.55 blue springs -- with respect to reducing bottoming out without causing too much bounce, and maintaining good rear turn-in?[/b]
If your goal is to reduce the bottoming out, then I'd change the pistons. Changing spring rate makes some difference on bottoming out, but not as much as increasing pack.
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Old 01-09-2012 | 12:50 PM
  #9479  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
No need to be so butt hurt...

Just to help you
If you have bent the clip or what ever? Then you could have issues with binding.

BTW
yes, I do have mass posts , one of the first 10 to join this board many , many moons ago
So dumb, nevermind him, people say im lazy for not taking out the bearings in my wheels, REALLY! Many are lazy for not cleaning their car, rats nest wiring, and not taking care of their stuff so nobody should worry about my wheels bearings

lap times mean alot lol
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Old 01-09-2012 | 12:58 PM
  #9480  
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Bislter

Apologies for the large caps , did not mean to offend , or whatever ...


Please feel welcome and all...
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