Not really , we have played around with though ..


So far no one has gone faster with ....

cherry, by middle on the rear hub, do you mean the B or the C hole on the A tower
also, what camber do you run f/r. -1 all around or -.5

with shorty i ran about that same setup at practice wednesday, i moved the hubs to the long position tho. but still using kyosho sb springs (silver/black)

was running ~4 pads in the rear, but have switched to 2 1/2 behind the battery in prep for my high velocity 60c shorty to get alittle more rear bias.

was also thinking about white rear springs before even seeing that post, with the incoming shorty, now i added them to my amain cart hah.

when you convert to hex you only have to buy the steering axles and blocks for the front correct? not the rear. The hexes just slide on in the rear?

You are not lowering your roll center if you are adding washers. If you draw it out you will notice that with the same rear arm angle, when you add ball stud washers it then raises the Instant Center of rotation for the arm/ turnbuckle. Thus, the angle of the line from the tire contact patch to the IC is slightly steeper and therefore the RC will be higher.

What you stated completely agrees with this in that in the first situation the the RC was lower and therefore further away from the CG. This gives the CG a longer lever arm, and is experienced by a greater willingness of the car to roll (in the rear) in the corner. Then when you added washers the car felt more planted because the CG had a shorter lever arm and could therefor not roll as easy.

The bit about running 3-4 washers giving you MORE rotation is incorrect. Try going around a hairpin with no washers and 3 washers and you should notice a significant difference in the cars willingness to rotate.

Tom, the shorty pack is magical! It definitely makes the car change direction quicker and makes it feel more agile. All the AE guys down here run it and really like it.

When making the switch there is no need to add weight, just re-adjust your ride height and make sure the Fr/Rr weight bias is the same. My car currently is just barely over weight and feels great!

so what you are saying from all the talk and write ups out there about roll center adjusting by the inner ball stud height is false?

lowering the ball stud increases the roll center and rising the ball stud decreases the roll center

does that sound right or is all the writes up I am finding incorrect?

I know this may of been asked already, but this search engine is no good if u ask me. So Ill ask...apologies in advance!

I bought a set of rear ae springs: red 2.95|gold 2.75 | blue 2.55 | white 2.10 | green 1.90

front ae springs: blue 4.20 lb. | silver 3.85 lb. green 3.50 lb. | black 3.20 lb. | brown 2.80 lb

My local track is hard-packed clay, 1 straight-away that allows full throttle, moderate amount of jumps, moderate amount of turns, not many bumps.

I am new to this buggy so what combinations do you think I should try?

thx!

the middle hole is the b hole on the a tower, the second one out from the car.

I used http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...club_2011x.pdf

on island raceway today. No k springs just stock- it was so dailed. I am running one washer in front thats only change. Bald bk bars, blue barcodes up front.

I need sc10 help dude that thing feels like a brick on wheels.

Thanks Tim. Just picked up the +8 and a Finnisher.

Whats the Release Date on the Worlds Kit .. Anybody !

says in febuary..

Ok I want to build my B4.1 A full on race veichle Im ready to spend some money so tell me what I need..

I have the tires already..

I know I want a B4.1 8mm chassis...

But what else do I need...

AHHHH!! I can't believe it. Well, you are going to have to let me drive Tom.

where can i find care info on lipos and brushless motors. i am new to this and have read several threads and seem to get lost worse than before i started reading.
things i need to know: how low in cells in the lipos should i go? nano tech 5300 2s lipos. how should i charge them (at what current? 5.3?) do i balance then before or after charging? and any other info i am leaving out that is important
motors: i use to buy motors by the turn now you have to look at kvs and size, i have a b4.1 and would like to stay in the 13.5 class. will a tekin esc work with a cc motor or vice versa or are they only good with the matching motor.
are there better motors for the b4.1 with esc combo. i start reading and all of them say sc or sc 4x4. will these work well, andy good ideas on motors and esc please post up.
then i can join in the what gear ratio fdr and roll out conversations with you guys.

thanks in advance for the info