Try lowering the throttle profile on the esc also check your drag brake setting. That might help you a bit there was a guy who was running a rtr last time I raced it had way to much power lowered his esc and it was a lot more driveable.

What are the differences between Worlds Kit and "regular" B4.1 FT?
Now STOP, it was a joke! I thought I heard some people already scooping air to their lungs =)
The issue that I was thinking, will this new kit make something to the price of B4.1 FT? I would like to see price getting little lower. Or am I just dreaming...
Because itīs like 370$ atm where I live...

I don't post here much, usually just read the posts.. But this time i have some questions. Running B4.1FT with 8mm chassis and other goodies it seems i never have enough steering. I have the longest possible front camber link with 2 hole 30* blocks. Running 27.5wt front oil with rcshox 2 stage pistons all around with silver losi springs and 3 limiters with hubs in up position. Rear i went to pink losi springs and 30wt oil(still have too much chassis slap front and rear) with 2 limiters and long wheelbase. For rear toe i'm running 2.5deg block and .5 deg hubs, but have 0deg hubs also(just sloppier). I'm running 17.5 and it seems like i have to jab the brakes to get the rear end to pivot around, otherwise i have to turn full lock and wait for the front tires to grab traction then ease out of the corner or else i will push into the opposite pipe. I'm running gold compound barcodes, proline closed cell up front and AKA foam in rear. I was running orange front and yellow rear springs, went to silver front first for a while then pink rear. Rear camber link is inside on tower and inside holes on B block on the hub. Any suggestions? it's just twitchy as hell, when i get nervous in the races the car just falls apart. Twitchy lining up for the jumps and shooting for the apex of the corner yet full lock on the sweeper and the back end will kick out a little too much since the pink rear spring. BTW i'm running a 1258 savox, 1/2oz under the horn and ballast weight in the rear along with 1/2oz next to the RX, maybe i should go back to yellow rear spring and add more weight up front? Battery weighs 315g. Track is medium traction indoor semi technical. Thanks guys any suggestions are welcome as i'll read this tomorrow at the track and try things accordingly

I'm actually on the 2nd level of 4 levels. Drag brake is set to off. This thing still drives like a drift car.

Which version do you have - the Brushless or brushed version? Or do you have your own electronics? Reason I ask is I have driven one of the BL versions and being sensorless, I found the powerband to be very difficult to drive on a slippery track. I also found the servo very slow for racing (fine for out on the street).

The gear diff can also make them a little less stable on some slippery surfaces. Maybe someone running a gear diff can advise on suitable grease / oil to use (or see if you can borrow someones ball diff to try out).

Use the shock settings and camber link positions from the Cav worlds setup (AE brown springs are fine at the front in most cases, and standard #2 pistons will be OK at the rear to get you in the ballpark). If you want to try more rear toe-in (3.5deg) you can get additional inboard toe-in blocks which are cheaper than using the FT alloy blocks.

Assuming you have bedded the tyres in correctly, the other thing to look at is weight placement. The rear ballast weight helps a lot but you can also run the battery at the back to help with traction.

Hope this helps

Ray

First question before talking setup...is your servo saver tight (or preferably glued)?

learned something last night ,put the 2 screws in the bottom that hold the diff down,if not you will need a new chassis,i broke mine but on a positive note i'm getting the +8.this is what happens when the hobby shop closes and we turn on the lights and stay

Reposting this because I didnt get one reply a few pages back.

I put a Hot Racing aluminum bellcrank on my B4.1 a couple days ago. I wanted to try it instead of gluing the stock servo saver. It still has a servo saver but when used with the HD saver spring it is VERY hard to break free. I figured it should perform like the glued saver but in a hard hard crash maybe it would help save some abuse on the servo. I raced it last night and couldnt drive the thing. It seemed REALLY darty and hard to control. Kinda like the short chassis used to feel. I did re-align the front end and dial everything back in. Im wondering if anyone else has done this and if it felt the same or if after you glued the servo saver did it take some getting used to ?

They fit on the spring just not the rod end. It will wobble or lean when under load from the spring. I tested it out the other night...

I glue my servo saver in all of my rides t4 b4 and sc10, haven't burned up one servo yet in 2 years. Your car feels darty because thats just how sloppy the saver was. I would change your front tires to make it push to get used to it. I like alot of steering, you can make passing in odd situation allot faster.

Thanks Brent, I noticed that. I'll have to hope they have a set at the track today. Traxxas parts might be my only option atm if they don't have any.

i had that problem with my 8mm when it was glued and it wasn't a production chassis. It was a very technical track and tight. I ran the worlds setup with 3 degrees of toe in. I loved it. Idk how it worked since that track was prob 5x larger then what i was running but it steered great. Make sure your diff is smooth, and make sure your slipper is set so when you hold the back wheels give it full throttle blip, it should jump 2-3 inches. Good luck.

I did think about drilling the lip larger that hits the rod end on the shaft., I have so many of these and no one has the TLR cups

I might try that this weekend. If they don't work, Order the correct ones and a lot more springs

A few things I'd try (one at a time). Tires, Golds can be abit hard unless your using traction compound especially up front. I haven't tried PL closed cells (too firm?) Shorten your front camber link (inside on tower/ inner on hub) my guess is this is your problem. Check your servo saver like stated above. Add 1/2oz upfront. Soften up your springs. Hope this helps some

You have no mention of the number of inner ball stud washers front and rear. I would make sure that you at least either have one or no ball stud washers in the rear and on or two in the front. If you want the car to turn in more and rotate go with fewer washers in the rear. If you want the feeling of more traction at the expense of mid-exit steering ad a washer in the rear. In the front if you want more initial turn in go with fewer washers, but for more exit steering add one. Typically adjusting the rear washer height is a little more sensitive of an adjustment than the the front.

Also I would bet that you car feels so twitchy because your springs are too stiff front and rear. Try at least going to one stage softer with 30wt fr and 27wt rear with #2 pistons in front and #3 piston in the rear with standard limiters. You shouldn't have any chassis slap unless you are either flat landing, or unevenly landing on the downside.