How would you qualify the behaviour of the car compared to what you had before? Is it nimble, planted, instable, light from the rear? I know it depends on the setup but all buggies have a "signature". A RC8B feels neutral and a JQ nervous from the rear for example, so what do you think about the S811E?

Good question. I've never had another E before so I'm interested in that info also.

Here are some pics of my recently built 811-Be.

Everything went together well. Build quality is good and fit and finish is good. I would highly recommend a good electric screwdriver to build this kit.

I have 10+ Packs through the buggy. So far so good. Right now i'm just trying to find that "sweet spot" setup that I can move around from depending on track conditions. Once I find a decent setup I'll post it up here.


Things I noted when building the kit:

Stock shock pistons were tight, they needed to be chucked up in a drill and sanded to fit properly.

I didn't even try to use the stock servo saver. See the picture below. I used a Racers Edge Pro Aluminum servo saver and a steering linkage ball from Mugen and it fit great. Granted it's not as straight as stock, but clearance and range of motion is good.

Use a 3mm arm reamer on the arms where the shock pins go in the arms, makes removing them and putting them back in much easier.

I would recommend the hard servo saver spring, stock one does not seem strong enough to center steering in the servo saver.

I would recommend the new sway bar mounts. They are initially tight, I had to remove some left over plastic from the diff case molding to get the assembly to work smooth once I installed the e-clips. The sway bar wire that's supposed to work for the front and back is too long for the front, they should be cut down 3-4mm for a proper fit. It also gets in the way of front diff access. Other then that they look cool and make changing sway bars easier.

When building the kit, DO NOT FILL THE F/R DIFFS with fluid right away, wait until you go through the diff shimming process, then fill them with oil.

On the diff shimming, I shimmed them so that at most there was one high spot (about 1/8 rotation) in the gear mesh. After running a few packs, and the initial gear mesh built like I said, the gear mesh now feels perfect.

Battery tray is ehhh... (I would have preferred velcro). I had to modify it slightly where the batteries are connected to fit the new Pro-Match 6000mah batteries.

Wiring has been done for ease of maintenance. It could be shorter, but working on the vehicle and easier access for maintenance is higher in priority to me then saving an inch of wire. I had to dremel another wire access channel under the ESC mount to run the ESC and transponder wires. Note how I ran the sensor wire, again, done to make removing he motor and electronics easier.

Rear outer CVD boots will fall off if you don't CA them into place, I just opted to remove them.

Nice work!

Can´t wait to start building mine. Just have assembled centre diff as I´m waiting for the extra diff shims to arrive. Shock assembly next weekend, webbed bladders and 8 hole pistons arrived yesterday from amain.

it doesn't need a locking nut, standard 3mm nut with threadlock is what its designed for.

Do you have pictures of the upgraded swaybars mounted on the buggy?

@Netmaster.

I noticed you all seem to be running the option shock caps? whats the reason for changing straight to these?

also whats that nice chunky 12gauge wire? where is it from?

also that 811 in the middle has interesting shock positions, looks like it will hang out its arse alot

yes threadlocked the screws so this was how its intended to be? just needed some confirmation thats all.

cheers fella.

Hi!

I'm with the same doubt. For now is istalled like this:


Let's see how it handles that way.

Almost done :P

(these aren't the wires to be use...)

Regards from Portugal!

netmaster; not sure if you noticed any ill effects yet but I needed to remover my rubber grommets from the servo. they seem to allow to much movement side to side when under a load. I felt I got a better and consistent feel when turning without them.

Also for anyone looking to replace the stock servo horn I came up with something in a pinch during a race when the stocker gave out on me. It works perfect and I will not be changing it. I never hit nothing when the gears stripped out on the plastic unit. I believe I did have my servo saver on a bit tight but it really needs to be to get the right steering feel. Might need to get the stiffer spring.
I ended up using a losi aluminum horn (part # 99032, I have a savox servo). I ended up using a 2mm lock washer pried open just a tad, very easy to do with 2 small needle nose pliers. I then put it inside the horn, attached the horn to the servo and ran a button head screw thru. The button head should be facing the servo and the arm on the outside of the horn ( look @ netmasters pick, which is mounted the same) then just add a lock nut. I just wanted to add another method that works even though it's similar to others that have already posted.

I own a 966 and a 811 also and I can tell you is serpent are famous for not providing instuctions on the option parts....you have to guess really until it works, wich sucks. Add a regular nut to the screw thread on top, use lock tight, if you don't use the nut it can back out after a while.

btw, the aluminium steering knuckles don't work on the E, the outer bearing is bigger on the E. It can be used, but a smaller bearing , like on the nitro, has to be used.

Up , is it your first 1/8 buggy? This would help many people to make a decision

How is the weight of your 811Es?

Could you let me know what paint did you use on the body in the middle? I really like that grey/silver! Will Pactra indy silver be close?

BTW, very nice, simple paintjob. That's the style I really like

Thanks in advance!

I was told the stock shock caps are soft and just get beat up real quick, so I opted to change them out right away.

The 12 guage wire is from Pro-Match. I just ordered some wire when I placed my last battery order.

The 811 in the middle is running a truggy rear shock tower, some of the Serpent guys around here have been using it for additional shock mounting locations. It gives you the ability to stand the shocks more upright.

We race often with Billy. He lives around here. He is always trying stuff out and sometimes some of us try it as well.