been using the same cells for over a year now!! they come off about 10* hotter than the 50c's!!

Hm, Well That's great. lol. I honestly can't believe they haven't puffed yet. You're also not the standard Mouth breathing RC guy. Sooooo. It makes more sense. /LHS


(Although, 10* is 'alot' hotter for a Lipo.)

not when the 50c's are only 90* LOL

See. My lipos come off "warm". 10* is 'alot'.

Ok cool thanks for the reply.

Let the pre partying start!


Once mantis switches me to saddles im never looking back. Only gonna run stiks in my 2wd.

One scale for each tire. You also need something flat that you can level to put them on, and you need a bubble level.

You'll want to build something that looks like this:

http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog...e.php?pID=1638

I bought my scales from Amazon for like $5 a piece, the board is a leftover Ikea cabinet door from another project, and the bubble level came from a local Ace Hardware for like $8, and the screws I use to level it were some leftover hardware. I would of just bought the Lefthander one, but I need to move my scales so I can use it on my oval car, my sedan, and my offroad car.

You want 1000g capacity. These are the ones I got.

As a plus, you look way hardcore at the track with scales. Big time style points. Maybe a little intimidating.

Scales. Once I get it weighed, I use a Google Android application to measure F/R%, L/R%, and cross weight (or wedge, the most important). There is an iTunes app that does the same thing, and there are a couple of free internet aps out there that also work.

On a related note:

I agree, and welcome to the club. Some of us have been members for six months!

No, I think he's right. With a stick pack, my RF was like 6oz heavier than my LF. The RR and RL were about the same. I only ran the truck once with a stick pack and then I switched to saddles because it was so bad. You can fix it with adding ballast, but that has some detriments. The biggest advantage of the saddle packs is it gets the weight in the center of the truck, keeps the CG the same, and improves the moment of inertia.

There are people out there (notably Cameron) who have got their trucks to scale correctly, but IMO the problem is greater than getting the static weights right. These trucks have a high center of gravity already, and stacking the weight way out there on the corners makes the moment of inertia worse (I can't remember if it's higher or lower, but it's worse for our application).

A good way to think about this on an exaggerated scale is a barbell with two equal weights on either end. If you hold the bar with one hand parallel to your shoulders or perpendicular to your shoulders, the center of gravity is the same either way (right in the middle of the bar). If you twist it left and right, the one that is perpendicular (because it has most of the weight near the center of the bar) is easiest to get rotating and stop rotating.

Is it the end of the world? I dunno, but all the sedans I see anymore are uber narrow for a reason. Then there's the 22. And it's fairly cheap to do.

Ran my SC10 4x4 for it's first outdoor race today. I was super excited about it, and ran great.

Qualified second in the A in a field of 10 trucks, then moved into first for 8 minutes. While in the lead... on a large sweeper, my outside tire caught on a large rut. Broke a ball stud. Sucks, but I still had a great time.

The truck is stock other than HD slipper pads, and whatever tires I choose to run.

It's setup to the style of a 2wd truck. Rear end is a little bit loose, but on power steering isn't a problem. I still have nerves whenever racing... I need a setup that is just a tad less twitchy. I am currently running 5000 weight oil in the front and rear diffs. I don't really want to mess with my shocks, or shock angles. It jumps perfectly.

Would going up to 7k in the rear, and 10k in the front help with my twitchyness, but still retain good steering?

-Hunter

I went to 30,000k front and 5,000 rear. I know it sounds crazy but truck is great. I let a couple of other guys who have same truck drive it and they loved it. First race with it TQed and won.

Would a 500g scale work?

Check out rcshox.com a contributing member here developed an Ackerman arm that calms down the steering too.
Also just about everybody runs 30,000 wt in the front as well.

""Yeah. And when homework is done, Tuning down a faster motor is 'just fine'. Thanks ""

So why do all motor makers make motors in different turn sizes if one size fits all? Look at the setup sheets, factory drivers use different turn motors with different gearing options. Its a tuning option .

Exactly what I'm running for the same reason. Never had the MMP go above 120 so far running the Pro 4 with 15/62

Right. For Factory Drivers who have 6 Rotors in their box and give a damn about 5% efficiency.

I asked on the basis of Club Racing. I think I can tune down a motor in my transmitter or with gearing and hold a Trophy. (except I can't cause i'm a baddie ) I was looking for another reason if anyone had one. Thanks though. You are 100% correct, Not arguing that.

That's what I meant, I did really like it, it was smooth, had more than enough power, and was at a good price, but It cost me a much anticipated race event (DNS in every race) and I couldn't wait for the round trip for a replacement from novak before the next event, so I ordered the MMP & pro4 while the novak combo was being shipped back for store credit at amain (ended up getting the losi mini 8ight with the credit )

I like the MMP & Pro 4 better, the programablity of the MMP is nice as well, but not a huge difference for a noob like me.