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Old 12-28-2011 | 08:46 AM
  #8926  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
recommended

*0 degree rear hub
*losi BB12m shock springs ( silver ft & yellow or pink rear )
*losi BB12m spring cups
*RPM spring retainer
*Carbon ft arms & nose plate ....
* standard white shock spacers
* vented slipper plates
* JConcept Finnisher body
I have everything on that list except the slipper plate. How much of a difference does the vented slipper plate make? I figured just another gimic LOL
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Old 12-28-2011 | 08:47 AM
  #8927  
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im pretty sure a receiver cap helps with receiver brownouts and an esc cap helps with esc temps, at least that's how it is on Tekin RS speedos.
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Old 12-28-2011 | 08:50 AM
  #8928  
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Originally Posted by Asharus
im pretty sure a receiver cap helps with receiver brownouts and an esc cap helps with esc temps, at least that's how it is on Tekin RS speedos.
the ESC caps also stop brownouts one reason they are there.
My Novak has a cap on it and my buggy runs just fine with a Savox servo. my MMP needs a glitch buster or the CC BEC. I have used both, both had the same end result. No more glitching.
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Old 12-28-2011 | 08:52 AM
  #8929  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
I have everything on that list except the slipper plate. How much of a difference does the vented slipper plate make? I figured just another gimic LOL
Depends on how loose you run your slipper. If you normally run it on the loose side it can help the pads from glazing towards the end of a run. I run mine a little on the tight side so I haven't really noticed a difference, looks cool though
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Old 12-28-2011 | 08:53 AM
  #8930  
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Originally Posted by brent701
the ESC caps also stop brownouts one reason they are there.
My Novak has a cap on it and my buggy runs just fine with a Savox servo. my MMP needs a glitch buster or the CC BEC. I have used both, both had the same end result. No more glitching.
i had novak speedos in the past and they all had that large cap. none of them needed a RX cap.

my tekin RS speedos have a cap also but 2 out of the 4 tekins i have needed an additional receiver cap to prevent motor cogging at low speeds.
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Old 12-28-2011 | 08:54 AM
  #8931  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
recommended

*0 degree rear hub
*losi BB12m shock springs ( silver ft & yellow or pink rear )
*losi BB12m spring cups
*RPM spring retainer
*Carbon ft arms & nose plate ....
* standard white shock spacers
* vented slipper plates
* JConcept Finnisher body
Thanks guys for the info
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Old 12-28-2011 | 08:54 AM
  #8932  
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Originally Posted by Asharus
i had novak speedos in the past and they all had that large cap. none of them needed a RX cap.

my tekin RS speedos have a cap also but 2 out of the 4 tekins i have needed an additional receiver cap to prevent motor cogging at low speeds.
Sorry to hear that.
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Old 12-28-2011 | 08:55 AM
  #8933  
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Originally Posted by racer1812
Depends on how loose you run your slipper. If you normally run it on the loose side it can help the pads from glazing towards the end of a run. I run mine a little on the tight side so I haven't really noticed a difference, looks cool though
I don't know if my slipper is considered loose or tight to be honest. People got me adjusting it now by holding the back tires and jabbing the throttle and making the front end come up an inch or so. Last time I raced I put it on the track and listened..... times have changed, so I figured I would too.

Although I highlighted the most important thing here. I agree.....but someone should make it blue
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Old 12-28-2011 | 08:55 AM
  #8934  
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Originally Posted by racer1812
Depends on how loose you run your slipper. If you normally run it on the loose side it can help the pads from glazing towards the end of a run. I run mine a little on the tight side so I haven't really noticed a difference, looks cool though
Are you running the vented hub on both sides?
I am running the vented hub on the outer side and I can't really tell if it is doing anything but looking cool. lol I run my slipper tight like you.
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Old 12-28-2011 | 09:02 AM
  #8935  
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Originally Posted by brent701
Are you running the vented hub on both sides?
I am running the vented hub on the outer side and I can't really tell if it is doing anything but looking cool. lol I run my slipper tight like you.
yes, both sides. I get at least a couple weeks before having to freshen my pads, eww that sounds bad..lol I race with some that, depending on track conditions, only get 2-3 runs.

they seem to have a little more side bite than I do so I might change things a little.
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Old 12-28-2011 | 09:03 AM
  #8936  
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Originally Posted by racer1812
yes, both sides. I get at least a couple weeks before having to freshen my pads, eww that sounds bad..lol I race with some that, depending on track conditions, only get 2-3 runs.

they seem to have a little more side bite than I do so I might change things a little.
What pad you using? lol
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Old 12-28-2011 | 09:11 AM
  #8937  
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Originally Posted by Trevor Williams


I only ran one b44 so yup, that be it.......whats up btw
Just getting back to dirt after a few running onroad the last few years
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Old 12-28-2011 | 09:12 AM
  #8938  
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Originally Posted by brent701
What pad you using? lol
Kot.....oh those. currently the newer gold pads, color changed a little while back. Not sure if there was a reason or a big difference.

I have tried the HD pads in my buggy, they work fine but are a little touchy to get adjusted. I like them in my T4 though.
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Old 12-28-2011 | 09:35 AM
  #8939  
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I have the white ones on my buggy.... not sure why, just they were the ones it came with when I bought it. Are they not as good? Harder or easier to adjust?
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Old 12-28-2011 | 09:47 AM
  #8940  
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I was told that you were just supposed to do something to the white pads every 2 or so runs to make it smooth or something, not really sure, but with the gold ones you don't need to, so Ive been told, so that's why I use the gold ones
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