I just completed a team kit build and it was fun. Approx 6hrs taking my sweet time. A little more complicated than a 3 diff setup with the belt drive, but I like how light and nimble the truck feels. I went with 50,000 in the front diff and 7k in rear and whoa its hooked up and turns killer still (no sway bars yet). Since I am a racer I will look into the 3rd party slipper/diff products but if you're not a serious racer that enjoys wasting money in the never ending search for speed these are not at all necessary to have fun and be competitive. So far very pleased with the truck, the build and performance and durability. I will probably buy the Losi too and have my very own "shoot out" to see which truck I think will be faster for MY driving style. I am nerdy like that

yep same here some of the screws was to long and i was short 3 screws that went thru the chassis for the lock nut on the chassis where it bolted together.

whats that brace in the middle for? that runs next to the belt housing.

That is a chassis brace it helps take away some of the flex and keeps the belt tunnels straight. If you are running stick packs, the "flex" isnt as bad because the stock battery holder stiffens the chassis some. But if you are running saddles like the in the picture you need a chassis brace to take away the flex.

ok, i know it is said somewhere in these pages, but what the heck are you guys talking about? what is a clutch basket? what do garodiscs do? what other things do i need? i have sway bars; i am almost done building mine from christmas and want to know what to do to it.

See this post:

For those pictures I had the brace unattached at one end.

These trucks come with an undersized slipper if you are going to use a 550 or a 4 pole motor - even fully locked down they slip. One way of addressing it is garodiscs (Mantisworks upgraded slipper pads), or the Mac The Knife clutch basket adds another disc to the slipper clutch for much improved performance.

If you are going to run a 540 motor (less torque so the factory slipper is okay here) you'll need to add a Yeah Racing motor fan with a 180 in the part number else it will thermal quick.

got my sc10 4x4 together. i have a 4 pole 3800 Kv castle motor i ran the 32 pitch spur gear. i had the truck off the ground i hit the throttle the wheels spin nicely but when i hit the breakes the rear wheels lokced up but the front kept on spinning with a clicking noise whats that from?

Sounds to me u have the front clicker open or not locked down like most of us do. Tighten down the front clicker nut down and try again.

Tighten the nut on the front clicker, all the way down.

thanks. I am using a hobbywing motor which i guess is 550. do i need the garodiscs now? and what about the brace?

It is all personal opinion the clutch basket is another option, then you can play with all 3 different slipper pads the stock pads, the garodisc's and the high torque pads. The brace if you are running saddle packs is a must as you seen in the pic without it the belt tension isnt really consistent without it.

Thanks that worked. now another issuse. should the 4x4 roll freely when pushed by hand? my sc4x4 is hard to push by hand like something is to tight.

Lucky you, most of my family looks down on me for doing all the RC stuff, so for the $500 or so I ended up spending this xmas, I get back sweaters that don't fit and other random stuff I will never use. I even suggest that they get me gift cards from a few different hobby sites.

Every year I try to convince them that xmas is about family and we should just do secret santa or something, but "that's not as fun". I can think of a lot more fun things I could have done with that half a grand.

yea, sounds like you have something binding. take the belt covers off and inspect.

How far does it roll? Check the belt tension, is it set to the stock recommened settings in the manual? The higher up the screw is, the less tension that is on the belt and vise versa