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Old 12-24-2011 | 10:03 AM
  #8806  
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Originally Posted by SourDieselX
is the +8mm chassis worth the extra cost? could someone kindly educate me a bit in regards to the +8mm chassis? this will be my first jump back into 1/10 scale 2wd buggy in over 10 years, lol. could use all the help possible!
i dont comment much on a lot of things here because it seems like its just beating a dead horse

what i will say - the 8mm chassis makes this a WHOLE DIFFERENT car (regardless of smooth/bumpy, tight/fast, indoor/outdoor)....i've had time to have/drive several different b4, 4.1, "4.05", xxx cr, xxxcr/bk2, 22, etc. buggies and none have come close to my current ft 4.1 +8mm. just buy the kit and forget about any possibility of there being anything better
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Old 12-24-2011 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by SoccerSting
Has anyone gone from Barcodes to Scrubs on the front of a b4.1 and is there a noticeable difference? Or which ones are better?
I like the scrubs and vectors better on indoor hi traction clay with the 8mm chassis.
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Old 12-24-2011 | 10:05 AM
  #8808  
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Originally Posted by nhraman
I like the scrubs and vectors better on indoor hi traction clay with the 8mm chassis.
thanks, i've been wondering about this myself!!!
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Old 12-24-2011 | 10:07 AM
  #8809  
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Originally Posted by nhraman
I like the scrubs and vectors better on indoor hi traction clay with the 8mm chassis.
What about with the regular chassis?
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Old 12-24-2011 | 11:34 AM
  #8810  
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Originally Posted by brent701
Standard white shock bushings? I don't have those on my shocks.
I have a spacer in between the 2 o-rings and small limiters. those white things in that pic aren't on my shocks.


Sounds you have the standard shock
bodies and do not have the V2 shock .
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Old 12-24-2011 | 11:39 AM
  #8811  
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Originally Posted by derekbsmith
Any replies?
http://www.trick-parts.com
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Old 12-24-2011 | 02:33 PM
  #8812  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Sounds you have the standard shock
bodies and do not have the V2 shock .

Nope. B4.1 FT kit
Threaded V2 shocks with bottom o-rings in a little black cap.

the rebuild for my shocks was 3 or 4 o-rings. 2 for the upper cap and 2 for the shaft on the bottom..
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Old 12-24-2011 | 02:40 PM
  #8813  
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brent

The bottom cartridge on the V2 shock uses 1 spacer (Black) and two red o-rings...


Replace the black spacer with the white standard shock spacer as shown below...

part # 7440
Attached Thumbnails RC10B4.1 FT/WC-standard-shock-rebuild-kit-7440.jpg  
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Old 12-24-2011 | 02:43 PM
  #8814  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
brent

The bottom cartridge on the V2 shock uses 1 spacer (Black) and two red o-rings...


Replace the black spacer with the white standard shock spacer as shown below...

part # 7440
What's the reasoning for this? I have the black ones in my shocks and they perform perfect.
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Old 12-24-2011 | 02:50 PM
  #8815  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
What's the reasoning for this? I have the black ones in my shocks and they perform perfect.

*using the black spacer
When you tighten or snug down the cap for the shock cartridge you can experience a small amount of binding on the shaft .

This binding is due to the black spacer is a bit off spec in size and even can have a small amount of flash .

White spacer is molded just right , the material also made of a Teflon base plastic and will bring a smoother shock with less striction.

* can feel the improvement off & on the track running the car.
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Old 12-24-2011 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
*using the black spacer
When you tighten or snug down the cap for the shock cartridge you can experience a small amount of binding on the shaft .

This binding is due to the black spacer is a bit off spec in size and even can have a small amount of flash .

White spacer is molded just right , the material also made of a Teflon base plastic and will bring a smoother shock with less striction.

* can feel the improvement off & on the track running the car.
cool thanks.
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Old 12-24-2011 | 03:29 PM
  #8817  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
cool thanks.

I'll dig thru my spares and see if I have some spacers.

On another note.

I have noticed on some set up sheets, drivers have made mention of using a non milled motor plate. Is this still a tuning option to add more weight to the rear?
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Old 12-24-2011 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by SoccerSting
What about with the regular chassis?
Scrubs and Vectors offer a little more steering which I liked with the 8mm. I run the bar code golds sometimes when the track is wet, but most of the time I run slicks. The bar codes felt pretty good most of the time with the standard chassis. It's to hard to tell whats going to work best for you at your track get your hands on as many sets as you can. I change tires more than any other setting on my car from week to week.
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Old 12-24-2011 | 05:51 PM
  #8819  
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Ok i see it now. It was hard to see from the pic of the thicker spacers. I just saw those funny looking ones.
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Old 12-24-2011 | 06:20 PM
  #8820  
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awesome, thanks to those who replied in regards to the +8mm chassis, my second question got by passed so I'll ask again and then I'll determine where to take my next step. Had one response but was hoping for more feedback.

with the +8mm chassis, I've seen several variations, using the regular one or the aluminum chassis? Order the one from AE or anyone have any suggestions?
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