Practice! more practice and after that practice a lot more..
Parts wise.
*+8mm Chassis
*Losi Springs
tuning is key. Use peoples set ups on here as a base or guideline. You will need to adjust the suspension on how you drive it. I can not use AKA rebars. I slide in ever corner but other people same buggy can fly with them..
*Different rear hub blocks
*get all stud washers.. to adjust roll center
* more sets of different tires to test and see if any work for you
*Inline axles.. I have found do either or. Inline axles or +8mm chassis. together lost a lot of steering entering turns.

there is more. I just can't think of them right now..

No they are just breaking.. They are usually breaking off this one jump and I'm landing it just fine I had someone watch me do it and he said I wasn't even doing anything.. So I'm thinking it's something suspension I was thinking the shock shaft was bent but I looked and it's just fine.

Any replies?

Will the Inline Axles increase or decrease entry steering?

If it's breaking while landing then you must be landing with one side of the buggy before the other side. This is a hard concept to get used to, but try correcting your car in air a little. For example, if your buggy is leening to the left in air, turn right in air and it'll help balance your car out. You need to have the wheels spinning too, but that's easy to do. It takes some time to get used to, but it will only help you at any track you go to, and whatever car you are driving. I would also recomend glueing your servo saver.

with the +8 chassis I felt it decrease entry steering. I went back to the trailing axles with the +8 chassis

The ball ends shouldn't break that easy when they are new but they will break eventually. It is good to use a little wax on the threads before putting the ball end on. It keeps the plastic from heating up from the threading.

Thanks for the tip! I will try this on my B4.1.

I like your signature specially the last line!

Ran new parts yesterday for testing purposes. Started with the losi springs. The traxxas #3768 shock collars were a good fit (they're for the 4x4 slash). Started with red front and yellow rear. Coming from the stock springs and that being the only change I noticed the rear rotated a little better without stepping out, but the big difference was how well it jumped and it didn't get crossed up near as much. At the track I run at ( west coast rc) there's a couple of jumps right before turns and the car landed and turned much more consistent without spinning out. Ran the yellow rears all night but tried Orange fronts. Lost a little exit steering but the car felt more reactive and turn in was more responsive.

Tried the shorthand lipo too. With it spaced 1.5 spacers from full rear, felt much like a normal battery, but car seemed a little lighter and more reactive. Moved it all around the battery slot and the really cool thing is moving the battery has a greater effect than moving the longer battery. Ended up 1.5 spacers from full front ( I like a lot of steering). Never an issue with punch or runtime compared to reedy lipos.

Lastly I tried the online axles. I didn't get much time with them cause I was trying too much stuff already. Didn't noticed as big a difference as the past, might be the longer chassis. I did notice the car changed direction better in the low speed turns, but wasn't as twitchy at high speeds as it was in the past. I'm going to try my things next week, one day of practice isn't nearly enough. Hope that helps a little.

i agree with mini mod def glue the servo savor.. I would get the AE spring set front and rear, cvas, i believe the car come with white slipper pads still if they do get the reg ones, the rear weight ballast,V@ shocks, add the weight to the cornors of the chassis, ti turnbuckles... AND PRACTICE .. aso for the changing to different brands of springs yes it might work but they should be the 1st on ur list, its just a phase right now like the ky springs were cause ae is testing for future FACTORY replacements.
the prob with the ballcups... did u mean -1 or -2 camber or -.1-.2 alittle les from 0... prob could be its off a little bit and when u land a little off the tire could be going to postive camber and that how the pop easy... also how old are they if they pop u should replace right away... theres nothing wrong with the factory call ends... but if u insist on changeing them in (MY PERSONAL OPINION) the RPM are the worst they bind up ur suspension movent at full stroke. i would recommend JCONCEPTS,losi, But here another idea since ur looking to upgrade ur car and ti turnbuckles is a great upgrade get the fatter ones 3.5 and get the kyosho or losi 22 ones and use them with upgrading the ball studs also which will make it alot smoother/stronger/and will be hard to pop off!

Oh now someone tells me that LOL..

I have the white RPM ball cups I'm going to the track tomorrow so I guess I will see if they will hold up..

I think your right on the camber degree. I'm going to go and readjust all of them to -0.02 all the way around..

I think I should have a good set-up for now. I think the next upgrade will probably be something like a ball dif.

How much do you guys think my car is worth with all this:
RTR B4.1 (all parts and tires still included light wear)
Front Aluminum Hinge Pin
Proline Shurbs
AKA Rebars
Novak Havoc 4s ESC
Novak 13.5 Sensored motor
2s 5000 Lipo

How much do you think I could get out of that? (not that I'm considering selling it just seeing if I could break even)

more than likely u wont break even...

but heres a thought... since ur considering getting all these upgrades. why dont u try and sell the car as a roller, or keep the car and use it for spare part, cause by the time u end up putting on most of the parts listed ur already at the price for buying a new B4.1 factory team kit with all the new updated parts except for the +8 chassis, and complete spring sets but u get the springs u will mostly use everywere... look at it like this... ti turnbuckles ,cva,hubs,v2 shocks set front and rear your around 200 bucks there, plus now ur getty a new body,tires rims,all new bearing screws, your getting the best car the car that won the worlds besides the longer chassis.

+1

Reguard leaking shocks... how old were the orings when they leaked? what kinda of racing was it like track conditions? Alot of team drivers use the factory orings with success.. An green slime...
also theres 2 diff kyosho x orings the orange and clear ones, which ones did u use that u felt the add stiction? i believe the clear ones are the better of the 2.. and yes the doing the reg oring 1st the the x ring on the bottom works.. And a company called TSR makes nice orings as well.
Also what kinda shape is the black oring that goes on before the bottom cap screws on is in.that also could be a problem?
How often do you rebuild ur shocks?


Now another AE TEAM driver tip u might find useful that takes away the stiction problem that u feel is binding up ur shocks is changeing the spacer that goes inbetween the 2 orings. The V2 shocks comes with a black spacer that is 3.6mm and change to the older style white spacer that is 3.2mm. Doing this frees up the shocks sooo much and allows for the swell that the orings gets...

Wild cherry is def rigt about the green slime , people say u also can use shock oil but the green slime is proven to work better.. I actually store my orings in green slime.

+100000000 I learned this the hard way,started with a ft B4 and have invested so much into it that I would have saved money just getting a ft b4.1(and Im still not at a complete ft b4.1)