Yeah get rid of that body. Just do a simple one cor paint job till you read and learn more about painting. Bodies are too expensive to experiment and learn on. Practice painting on the clear laminate sheets from office supplies. They are right near printer paper usually.

I can paint a single color somewhat... Thats not my paintjob My gripe is that bodies are so darn expensive...

u be able to get some black tape on the windows to look better??????

You know i was thinking about trying to find a way to make the windows look black. Im not sure what i could use though unless i just had some black stickers made and cut them to fit. It would have to look better with some windows in it though.

You could color them in with Sharpie. That would look real good.

hey guys, so my local track just redid the layout, and it is much bumpier. My biggest issue is when im going through two turns in particular, they are enterting and exiting the straight so I take them with quite a bit of speed, is that the back end gets really hoppy in the turn under speed, if it does proceed to break loose, the car will then hook then go into a tumble. What can I do to the suspension to help with this? I am running a setup very similar to the Paul Wynn, except browns upfront instead of kyoshos, 2* camber instead of 1*. Greens in the rear, 30wt upfront 25 in the rear.

I have ran the Protek ceramic balls for over a year and the best is they only cost 9 dollars! I wouldn't run anything else! I tried the 40 dollar Kyosho balls and they are by far the best lasted FOREVER! It was amazing to me!! But the Protek's are not very far off!!

Well mine turned up 2 1/2 hours ago..

For anyone new to building, in step 5 on the transmission it tells you to put ball stud washers under the bolts that hold the motor plate on.. With these washers on, there is not much tread captured in the motor mount (now there will be guys saying "ive not had a problem with it") more threads=stronger join. Take the washers off, you dont need them, the bolt will never pull through the gearbox.. This step also tells you to put tread lock on the bolts.. Not sure why, they go straight through plastic.. You only need to put tread lock on the end of the bolt later in step 6 when fitting the motor mount..

Its a shame this thing is going together so quickly..

So let us get this straight.

You haven't put the motor plate on, but you're telling us that you don't need the ballstud washers on the screws?

Just curious. This must be your first Associated car.

No, the bolts that hold the motor plate on are short , and only a very small amount of thread sticks out of the gear box to mount the motor plate.. With out using the ball stud washers there is more thread to screw into the plate.

And ive built about 20 AE cars in my time, first being a gold pan..

Well my build has come to an end.. AE have given me 2.0in rear camber link turnbuckles instead of 2.8in...

Wow, my first REAL problem ive had with any AE kit..

Sorry they fit.. Another manual mistake..No one else picking these up?

67.4mm between ball stud centers gives me about 0 degrees..Big difference to 89mm.. Ill check with Hudy when its done..

pretty sure the 2" is for the rear of the buggy, and that 2.8" is for the truck rear....and the steering links in the front of the truck.

the buggy is 2" all around, just like the manual states.

So it is.. That's what i get for using PDF's on the laptop.. At least my 67.4 was very close.

Time for a beer.

anybody wanna chuck an idea around for this one? thanks

Is anyone running a t4 chassis on a b4.1? What body are you using? Pix?