Hi Cwoods, it was a great explanation, in the past I sometime find having more roll resulted in less grip, because I did not change the camber to make them work together, thank you so much for shining the light on this!!

Cheers!

Always glad to help! A shorter link and/or higher arm blocks also makes the car feel twitchy or as if it reacts faster....... you can have a car load a tire too fast and also lose grip (usually only extreme setups) If you are an on/off switch with your steering wheel, you may want a bit more roll and possibly slightly softer springs so that you don't overwhelm the tires easily. The best fix for this, however, is learning to steer smoothly

do you guys have part numbers off every think I need to make the HB DCJs work. Our any double join cvds. I feel like my car would be little faster with this upgrade. Thank you

Don't use the set screws to hold the pins in! Only use the retaining rings.
Put a drop of CA to keep the rings in place.

I've also used TOO much Loctite on the set screws before and it leaked around binding up all of the internals..... like Tabasco sauce, just one drop does it™

Hi sorry to look stupid will this be ok to leave out the
set set screw

Yes as long as you use the pin retaining ring.

Tried associated gear diff on the front with 50k gear diff oil wow a little more fine tuning it is way better than a spool and less tire wear, no chattering, it gives me more front end grip and ton of steering I have to turn my dual rate down to 47% crazy... Did I mention no leak At all running on MOD..

50k, or 500k? I ran 500k in mod a few weekends, and it is pretty easy to drive, but I switched back to a spool. I found myself driving the car incredibly hard into turns, and the spool helped with 2 things. Obviously with a locked axle, you get theoretical full brakes to both front wheels simultaneously.... a "screeching halt" if you will! Secondly, it seemed to help prevent the back end from kicking out, because a spool on entry tends to cause a push in the car. It was simply easier for me to drive harder..... however, I have an aggressive driving style!

On a larger or more sweeping track, I think the gear diff would be much easier to drive consistently, since you wouldn't necessarily need so much brake action.

Gear diff is pretty incredible in 17.5 though

I run the car on small tight outdoor parking lot track this weekend... Light oil make the car to push too much on throttle coming off the corner, too heavy on the oil and you loose the steering. I end with 50,000k gear diff oil a little more fine tuning and it's way better then spool...

I also play with my suspension setup to compensate running a gear diff up front and man the car was dialed really easy to drive...

On MOD I hardly use a lot of initial break, I mostly put a lot of drag break with only 30%-40% initial break.

Usually thicker front gear diff oil will cause it to behave more like a spool.... as in more on-throttle steering. But it is also influenced by a number of other things, so in your instance.... if it works, it works!

I found that when I tried a lot of drag brake, the car didn't want to rotate as well due to my driving style. BUT I'm nearly flipping the rear end over with handbrake on entry!

My biggest problem is that I'm fighting the habit of mashing the brakes while turning. I'm starting to get the hang of mash brakes---turn---throttle out........

Play with your front roll center I like mine a little higher so the car rotates more on the corner off throttle...

It does acts like a spool when you put a really heavy oil.. With 50,000K it's just about right you still have the diff action when you corner this gives you more traction on the tires That have contact on the ground. When you hit the throttle coming off corner it pulls like a spool..