The 2 hole front carriers help a lot, the hinge pin fits a lot tighter and doesn't slop out. Get some 3mm Kyosho shims to take out a little more play and it tightens up pretty good. Usually a .2mm shim behind the bulkhead, a .2mm behind the caster block, and another 2mm on the vertical king pin is all that is needed.

Hey got a couple of questions. What ride height does everyone typically use? Is 24/24 a good starting point? Why would you increase/decrease ride height? Lastly, what is the difference between the A,B, and C blocks? Which blocks is a good starting point.

24/24 is a good start, and where i run 99% of the time. A blocks are the standard, but depends on track conditions and chassis.

Thanks for the information. Can you explain what the difference between the A-C blocks. Are the holes offset??

a has the highest holes
b middle holes
c lowest holes

easiest way to say it A has the fastest rotation with least traction and C has the most traction with slower rotation and B is in the middle of both. A is the "standard" block for the b4.1

Thanks Teambcw, that helps alot!

no problem
what track do you run at?
also what chassis?

A and B blocks have the ball stud at the same height, the holes in the B block are in between the holes on the A block for camber length options. The C block has the same length as the A block but lowers the ball stud 2mm.

A block is the same as the old plastic hubs on the B4.

Hello.thought i would share a pic of my t-4/EDM dirt oval car..

Very cool. I am doing the same with my t4. What wheels are those, and what body.

Can someone help me?

It's simply gluing the servo saver halves together with CA to make them one piece, you still use the nut and spring. As long as you use a quality servo and don't bang every pipe on every lap you shouldn't have any issues. As far as a difference, that's up to each persons skill level.

Does anyone have any tricks to stop the V2 shocks from leaking?

V2 don't leak normally, Check to make sure the cartridge is not loose, change your seals , check your shock shaft for wear ...

Also check that it's not the body itself. One of mine was over-machined from the factory. Couldn't tell until I drove it and oil went everywhere. We disassembled the shock and then could see some light coming through where they machine the slots on the bottom.