I installed the rubber seal.
followed the instructions, step by step...went over it a few times..just to make sure.
appears to be slightly warped/deformed when I screw the halves together.

unfortunately my diff is also leaking. i bought a second one but are afraid to build it.

My first night running my 6.1 i had problems with my diff leaking so i took it apart and it had leaked almost all the oil out so i rebuilt it and just used losi green o-ring grease on the seal and it seems to be fine now.

Hey all......I'm putting the front end together. When I adjust the camber links to about at 0 deg, by eyeball, the axles are binding when I move the suspension like the axle is too long. I've gone over, and over it, and can't figure out why the axle blades would rub against the inside of the spool

Any ideas where I goofed?

How much arm mount shims are you running in the front? It might be binding because your not running enough or the blades are on too tight

hello all
do someone knew the equivalence of a 48 DP SPUR 87 Tooth with a 64 dp one

and same for a 24 pignion in 48 dp in 64 ?

by advance many thanks for you reply

best regards
seasons greetings

"Teach a man to fish....."

48 pitch # of teeth / 1.5 * 2 = 64 pitch # of teeth

64 pitch # of teeth / 2 * 1.5 = 48 pitch # of teeth

Example: 48p 87 tooth spur / 1.5 = 58 * 2 = 116 64 pitch

I had the .5mm shim in there. That was the problem. Thanks

i knew there are goods fishers there
thanks

I havent had any issues with any of my AE diffs leaking; make sure you have the seal in place with some Green Slime and use the "opposite" method when tightening the diff screws. A little bit at a time until they are all tight.

Mike

Hi All

I just got my 6.1 built, and it was great!! The only one thing about it is that with the new caster block (with 4 degree inserts), I find it wobble back to front quite a bit, is that normal?

I would not normally say that if it is, say a Tamiya car, with a soft caster block.

But just that the whole of the 6.1 moving parts was so so nicely fitted together, I find that the caster block was moving too much.

I look forward to run the car on the weekend.

Cheers!

Check that the hinge pins are the correct size, ive seen a few kits where some out the outer pins are around 2.25mm instead of 2.5mm. If you think the play is coming from the insert in the hub, you can always glue them in

I shall try them out ! just in the case of not having the correct size, should I just go and buy a hinge pin, and hope it is the right size?

Anyway thanks so much for the tips!!

Cheers!

any review for new tc6.1...?
i heard the gear diff giving some hard time...
going to buy next week bcause most of LHS out of stock...

So.... Can someone explain this to a newbie?

Used to race a TC3 years ago.... Just had my first race with a used TC6. I looked over the car and rebuilt the shocks with 40wt oil. Was a handful to drive! Remove the rear sway arm..... Helps a bit.
Talk to Shaun Mac and Gene..... They suggest raising my roll center from 0B to 3B. Did the rear first...... Reset droop and RH...... Pushing like a truck. Did the same To the front..... Much better! Can actually drive the car with some aggressiveness. Finally have the tires barking!

Now........ Trying to get my head around what I did........ I thought raising the roll center would stiffen the suspension and decrease traction??? It did the opposite...... Made it tighter in the turns and more stable in the straight :-D