The front plastic Hex work. They just like to stick in the rim when You take the rim off. I have installed a small set screw on my SC10RS front hex to stop them from doing that. You can also run the TC5 front alum. hex on the B4.1. For the rear I would run the Jconcpets rear hex. They look nicer and won't come off when you remove the rim.

I run Hex in the rear and Inline front axles in the front keeping the bearings in the rims

New lid for my car. Finally got to try the Losi springs today and they were better. Now I just need to get that practice time in....

Are the Losi 22 springs a direct fit?

Nice paint...

no. You need the RPM spring collar and the losi spring cup. Here's the parts needed.

RPM spring collar #70327
TLR 12m spring cups #5095
TLR Ft 12m spring , silver #5174
TLR Rear 12m spring , pink #5168
TLR Rear 12m spring , yellow #5167
yellow rear if you need more traction

You better like it......... you painted it

First weekend racing back in all AE equipment and man is it good to be back.

TQ & Win Tonight with B4.1, T.4.1 & SC10 2WD...

The Buggy and Stadium Truck were dial. I am running small lipo pack in buggy & stadium truck with bb shock springs on the AE shocks in buggy.

Thank you AE!

i cant want for 22t springs, then when i can swap on the t4 and b4 ill make the change

untill then kyo regular bore springs

Here are some pics. I use the orange springs on the front and the yellow springs on the rear. Ride height is 24mm for both front and rear. There is still room for adjustment on the shocks. I use 1/2 oz weight in the rear and 1/4 oz in each triangle, so that could make some difference. I also use Traxxas uppers rather than the RPM's, they seem to fit better.

What big bore springs did you use on the T4.1? Kyosho Reds?

Been running my new T4.1 Brushless and I have a few questions.

What's up with the brakes? If I so much as think about braking the rear wheels lock up and I lose control. Is this somehow adjustable with the speed control? I know there is an adjustment for drag brake, but I was under the impression that it's only supposed to affect the amount of brake at neutral throttle.

Also, what's the first step in getting the wheels to hook up under throttle? Seems like the truck is all torque and no top end. If you're not super careful, all it wants to do is burn up tires.

I'm using the same setup as Brent Thielke that I got off of AE's website. My local track is a short, clay, high grip, and low dust. The only differences in my setup is the motor and gearing are bone stock.

Forgive me if these are amateur questions, but I'm just getting back into the hobby from a 15 year hiatus.

I'm new too, and the only thing I could think of was by adjusting the EPA on the brakes from the transmitter. Mine is just about all the way down.
For the throttle, there's a few different settings you can program on the stock ESC, but it still likes to spin. You've just got to figure out how much is too much, and back off a hair.

I ended up pulling the threaded collars off and just shimming it up because I was at the track and pressed for time when I did it. I'll have a few weeks off now to go through and sort it out. My Orange fronts were definitely longer than silvers though. Also you guys who are having trouble, are you running the older short shock shaft (never know if it's an older car) and / or are you running a bunch of limiters? I have the longer shafts and 2 limiters in each shock.....

These work too, Also in blue.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ing-Cups-Black

I second the Traxxas spring tops, they work good.

How can you tell what shock shafts the kit came with? What are the lengths?