Take it easy the first time out, let everything have a chance to break in. I would give it a race day and everything should be broken in. I would then clean the diffs and put new oil in, as the gears will leave some metal behind as they break in.

Here are some tips: These are for the nitro car, but some things carry over.

Tips,Tricks, and spare parts I would recommend.
1) Shims on diffs. In the manual it says 2 shims behind the bearings on the case side. I would put 1 on case
side, 1 on gear side. It will be a little tight but wear in nicely
2) Grease or oil the bearings
3) Brake disks, sand lightly with 600 grit in circular motion
4) I put heat shield tape on the side of my tank because the 9901 is so close, whether it does anything or not..
who knows.. just a piece of mind
5) If you turn the wheels and compress the suspension you will know the tires bump in. I add 3mm washer under
ball on steering knuckles and steering rack to take that out. Make sure you loctite the balls because they will be
a little short and not catch the locking on the nut.
6) Plastic nuts and washers for flat head screws are in the box, not in the first couple bags of assembly.
7) For V2 radio tray make sure you use the new brake arms they pull forward instead of back
8) Tap screw holes half way into diffcases for easier assembly 3x.05 tap, a little oil or grease helps also
9) Front drive shafts go into the outer holes on the axles to make the shafts as long as possible, rear use holes
to make drive shafts short as possible
10)Reedy 2100 lipo #631
11) Take a dremel and round off the pins for the shocks so they are easier to put through the arms and shocks
12) Use aluminum steering servo arm
Parts the car may need to help it on the track or make it tougher then it already is:
600267 - low roll rear block, most drivers are using this now
extra outer hub bearings
600240 - front swaybar 2.3
600349, 600350, 600351 - 6 8 10 hole taper pistons
600299 - one piece engine mount, makes chassis stiffer and easier to put the engine back in
600288, 600289 - alum chassis braces front and rear , #1 investment you can make
600300 - alum wing post, Keeps wing straighter longer
600330 - hard servo saver spring
600282 - delrin shock bushings, shock caps last longer
600284 - alum front tower. Cost less than std graphite one and good to have a spare
600347 – 7075 shock caps last longer
600133 - rear wing mount
600238 - rear swaybar 2.5, most drivers are using this now
front swaybar 2.0 losi, some drivers are using this now
600254, 600255, 600256 - rear springs 3.2, 3.4, 3.6
600246, 600247 - front springs 5.0, 5.2
600298 - for better acceleration and more traction use steel flywheel
600172 - #2 ackerman plate, most drivers are using this now

Ill add that to this list of spares to order, is a rear defo not required?

I just took my center diff out as I was locating the PT back to the origional position and the gears have obviously settled into place as 3 of the screw managed another full turn without effort, this was not the case building it.

good job its checked, my check front and rear diffs after first run

Front 8 hole conical with the conical facing up and rear 10 hole conical 5 holes drilled 1 way and 5 holes drilled another seems like a crazy shock setup to me.

Why is the conical fitted facing upwards?

Im thinking of going 8 hole conical front and rear.

A buddy of mine bought a used car and the shocks came that way. All I can say is it makes the down travel progressive instead of the up travel. But his car looked soo good I had to try it.

Can I put boots on the front driveshafts? like the rears?

secondly where does everyone get their spares from? On Amain im looking for the orange fronts and put the part code in and comes up with standard pinks.

Rear piston conical down then?

Here you go.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Orange-44lbs-2

thanks, are Amain best for spares as they always seem out of stock of a number of items?

finally what thread to replacement lock nuts need to be? 1mm or 1.2mm thread?

as I want capped lock nuts to keep crap out. thanks

Try Absolute Hobbyz
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/index....ath=90_214_140

the only place to shop

M3 nuts are the most prominent throughout the car.

finally what thread to replacement lock nuts need to be? 1mm or 1.2mm thread?

as I want capped lock nuts to keep crap out. thanks[/QUOTE]

I think that the wheel nuts are 1.0. I use the losi ones

does that adapter fit right in to the pl6? thanks

Can someone who is building a new serpent e buggy please measure the 8x19x6 pinion bearing with a caliper and tell me what they get for a measurement on the width. I am measuring the avid bearings at 5.93-5.95 depending on if I use the tip or the middle of the caliper.

I am swapping the v3 pinion setup into the nitro buggy and with 3 shims behind the pinion in the front it's so tight it barely turns. I took a shim out and it's better more like what I remember when I built the e bug. Thanks.