Soldering....
03-24-2016, 06:23 AM
#1
Soldering....
So I went to solder my ESC and most came out pretty good but one connection and a little but of another didn't solder that well. I just don't think I got the proper heat transfer because I had to hold the iron on the post for longer than I wanted and the connection is still clumpy...
1. Can this be fixed without having to remove all solder and start over?
2. Whats the best way to do it?
3. Should I try, heating up the connection a bit, then put some tin on the tip of my iron and try and re flow the solder and have whats on my iron fill any other spots?
4. When soldering say I have the iron on one side of the post and wire, is it best to just make everything melt from that one side or to hit both sides?
Thanks in advance.
1. Can this be fixed without having to remove all solder and start over?
2. Whats the best way to do it?
3. Should I try, heating up the connection a bit, then put some tin on the tip of my iron and try and re flow the solder and have whats on my iron fill any other spots?
4. When soldering say I have the iron on one side of the post and wire, is it best to just make everything melt from that one side or to hit both sides?
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by lyons238; 03-24-2016 at 12:23 PM.
03-24-2016, 07:23 AM
#2
First, make sure your iron is even getting hot enough, I've got cheap ones before and they never got hot enough and ruined my escs, and if it is you should be able to place the iron right on the wire tip and melt it on the post within 10seconds, thank goodness for YouTube lol.
What should I put the temp to considering?
Also considering the iron is at the right temp, can anyone answer the other questions please?
03-24-2016, 07:42 AM
#3
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (15)
What kind of solder are you using? A hakko iron will get plenty hot to do this job. If you're not using some type of flux to make the solder flow, you're going to have a hard time getting clean joints.
I use silver solder and put a tiny bit of flux on the two separate parts to be soldered. With a bit of practice you'll get nice shiny connections every time.
I use silver solder and put a tiny bit of flux on the two separate parts to be soldered. With a bit of practice you'll get nice shiny connections every time.
03-24-2016, 07:51 AM
#4
I use at least a 60watt iron and solder like this. I currently use the thin solder cores, but I think I prefer the mediums more.
http://www.amazon.com/Alpha-AT-31604...s=solder+rosin
As posted above, I think your iron is not getting hot enough.
http://www.amazon.com/Alpha-AT-31604...s=solder+rosin
As posted above, I think your iron is not getting hot enough.
03-24-2016, 07:52 AM
#5
Not all solders are equal. Some types, especially the lead-free take a lot higher temperature to flow properly. You might try 700 or 750 if you are using lead free. Also you didn't say if you are using rosin core or straight wire solder. Either way, a little flux on the connection before you join the parts is a good thing.
The best advice I can give is to get clamp to hold your wires and parts together. That way you can concentrate on getting a good joint instead of burning your fingers. Soldering is an art and takes a lot of practice!
The best advice I can give is to get clamp to hold your wires and parts together. That way you can concentrate on getting a good joint instead of burning your fingers. Soldering is an art and takes a lot of practice!
03-24-2016, 07:55 AM
#6
Very true on the lead-free. I hate those.
03-24-2016, 08:03 AM
#7
Me too! A lot of consumer electronics are made with lead free today.
If you ever wanted to learn about different types of solder, the audiophile websites have lots of information. Those guys wire up their own amplifiers and swear that they can hear the difference between brands of solder. Kester is a good brand that isn't too expensive and is very commonly used in the Aerospace industry.
If you ever wanted to learn about different types of solder, the audiophile websites have lots of information. Those guys wire up their own amplifiers and swear that they can hear the difference between brands of solder. Kester is a good brand that isn't too expensive and is very commonly used in the Aerospace industry.
03-24-2016, 08:15 AM
#8
Redo cold solder joints. Remove solder with solder wick or solder sucker. Practice by soldering 2 wire together. Trick is to heat up work enough for solder to flow.
1- Clean soldering tip
2- tin tip
3- Remove Solder on work with wick or solder sucker
4- let cool
5- Re-strip wire and re-tin
5- You should have enough solder on joint
6- Heat up joint(1sec) You'll see solder flow, Then add the wire.
Should take more than 10 seconds You have a clean soldering joint.
Photo attached is my de-soldering tool. Works well doesn't over heat the work. Use bulb vacuum out solder Not Blow out. Clean by squeezing bulb on paper to clear out solder.
Practice on solder 2 wires together, then do your soldering job. You'll turn into a solder artist. 35watt is good enough, Don't use soldering gun it get to over heat everything. I use 3mm or 5mm tip for better heat transfer, iron not even 275deg
May use flux but I found rosin core easier. Flux clean work and let solder to flow.
Good Luck!!!!
1- Clean soldering tip
2- tin tip
3- Remove Solder on work with wick or solder sucker
4- let cool
5- Re-strip wire and re-tin
5- You should have enough solder on joint
6- Heat up joint(1sec) You'll see solder flow, Then add the wire.
Should take more than 10 seconds You have a clean soldering joint.
Photo attached is my de-soldering tool. Works well doesn't over heat the work. Use bulb vacuum out solder Not Blow out. Clean by squeezing bulb on paper to clear out solder.
Practice on solder 2 wires together, then do your soldering job. You'll turn into a solder artist. 35watt is good enough, Don't use soldering gun it get to over heat everything. I use 3mm or 5mm tip for better heat transfer, iron not even 275deg
May use flux but I found rosin core easier. Flux clean work and let solder to flow.
Good Luck!!!!
03-24-2016, 08:20 AM
#9
i use 63/37 and 60/40 rosin core. sometimes i use added flux past but honestly i prefer the look of the joint without it?
I think im just not getting good heat transfer with the way the tekin escs are with those slots and i have my wires clamped fin to fit in those slots. but its just nt flowing together nicely.
do you think if i separate the joints i can reuse the same tinned solder on the posts and lead? or should i try to remove and reapply? most of the solder seem it hasnt heated up much as its kinda clump
can anyone answer my initial questions?
I think im just not getting good heat transfer with the way the tekin escs are with those slots and i have my wires clamped fin to fit in those slots. but its just nt flowing together nicely.
do you think if i separate the joints i can reuse the same tinned solder on the posts and lead? or should i try to remove and reapply? most of the solder seem it hasnt heated up much as its kinda clump
can anyone answer my initial questions?
03-24-2016, 08:36 AM
#10
Klumping is heat transfer. Solder gets oxidize while redoing the job. Must start by cleaning, re-tinning the iron, every time. Using a sponge to clean tip and re-tinning. Major steps in soldering.
03-24-2016, 09:16 AM
#11
1. Can this be died without restarting>
What do you mean by this?
2. Whats the best way to do it?
Use a solder wick as geezatec mentioned, remove the botched solder first.
3. Should I try, heating up the connection a bit, then put some tin on the tip of my iron and try and re flow the solder and have whats on my iron fill any other spots?
I usually put a dab of solder on the iron tip first, then coat the wire (tinning the wire) with solder by heating the wire and placing solder on it. Then heat the terminal, melt solder onto the terminal, place tinned wire on the terminal (without additional solder) to solder together.
4. When soldering say I have the iron on one side of the post and wire, is it best to just make everything melt from that one side or to hit both sides?
You have to heat both sides simultaneously, but follow the step above to see if you like that procedure.
What do you mean by this?
2. Whats the best way to do it?
Use a solder wick as geezatec mentioned, remove the botched solder first.
3. Should I try, heating up the connection a bit, then put some tin on the tip of my iron and try and re flow the solder and have whats on my iron fill any other spots?
I usually put a dab of solder on the iron tip first, then coat the wire (tinning the wire) with solder by heating the wire and placing solder on it. Then heat the terminal, melt solder onto the terminal, place tinned wire on the terminal (without additional solder) to solder together.
4. When soldering say I have the iron on one side of the post and wire, is it best to just make everything melt from that one side or to hit both sides?
You have to heat both sides simultaneously, but follow the step above to see if you like that procedure.
03-24-2016, 12:23 PM
#12
1. Can this be died without restarting>
What do you mean by this?
2. Whats the best way to do it?
Use a solder wick as geezatec mentioned, remove the botched solder first.
3. Should I try, heating up the connection a bit, then put some tin on the tip of my iron and try and re flow the solder and have whats on my iron fill any other spots?
I usually put a dab of solder on the iron tip first, then coat the wire (tinning the wire) with solder by heating the wire and placing solder on it. Then heat the terminal, melt solder onto the terminal, place tinned wire on the terminal (without additional solder) to solder together.
4. When soldering say I have the iron on one side of the post and wire, is it best to just make everything melt from that one side or to hit both sides?
You have to heat both sides simultaneously, but follow the step above to see if you like that procedure.
What do you mean by this?
2. Whats the best way to do it?
Use a solder wick as geezatec mentioned, remove the botched solder first.
3. Should I try, heating up the connection a bit, then put some tin on the tip of my iron and try and re flow the solder and have whats on my iron fill any other spots?
I usually put a dab of solder on the iron tip first, then coat the wire (tinning the wire) with solder by heating the wire and placing solder on it. Then heat the terminal, melt solder onto the terminal, place tinned wire on the terminal (without additional solder) to solder together.
4. When soldering say I have the iron on one side of the post and wire, is it best to just make everything melt from that one side or to hit both sides?
You have to heat both sides simultaneously, but follow the step above to see if you like that procedure.
and the first question i meant..."can this be fixed without restarting, removing old solder, and starting all over again. I have desoldering braid but doesnt seem to work well, maybe idk what im doing
03-24-2016, 03:27 PM
#13
You using a 1mm tip? Tip too small. Never get heat transfer evenly. Tekins use 3mm or 5mm chisel tip. I work on Tekins a lot since'91.
Like earlier post Heat transfer is the trick.
As for solder removal I'd rather use a solder sucker, the spring loaded tool, better the one I posted. Wick tended to over heat , you have to heat up the wick so it soaks up the solder.. Remover I posted $30. Cheaper then $340 desoldering station out there
Like earlier post Heat transfer is the trick.
As for solder removal I'd rather use a solder sucker, the spring loaded tool, better the one I posted. Wick tended to over heat , you have to heat up the wick so it soaks up the solder.. Remover I posted $30. Cheaper then $340 desoldering station out there
Last edited by Geezatec; 03-24-2016 at 04:24 PM.
03-24-2016, 10:09 PM
#14
1. Can this be died without restarting>
What do you mean by this?
2. Whats the best way to do it?
Use a solder wick as geezatec mentioned, remove the botched solder first.
3. Should I try, heating up the connection a bit, then put some tin on the tip of my iron and try and re flow the solder and have whats on my iron fill any other spots?
I usually put a dab of solder on the iron tip first, then coat the wire (tinning the wire) with solder by heating the wire and placing solder on it. Then heat the terminal, melt solder onto the terminal, place tinned wire on the terminal (without additional solder) to solder together.
4. When soldering say I have the iron on one side of the post and wire, is it best to just make everything melt from that one side or to hit both sides?
You have to heat both sides simultaneously, but follow the step above to see if you like that procedure.
What do you mean by this?
2. Whats the best way to do it?
Use a solder wick as geezatec mentioned, remove the botched solder first.
3. Should I try, heating up the connection a bit, then put some tin on the tip of my iron and try and re flow the solder and have whats on my iron fill any other spots?
I usually put a dab of solder on the iron tip first, then coat the wire (tinning the wire) with solder by heating the wire and placing solder on it. Then heat the terminal, melt solder onto the terminal, place tinned wire on the terminal (without additional solder) to solder together.
4. When soldering say I have the iron on one side of the post and wire, is it best to just make everything melt from that one side or to hit both sides?
You have to heat both sides simultaneously, but follow the step above to see if you like that procedure.
03-24-2016, 10:11 PM
#15
You using a 1mm tip? Tip too small. Never get heat transfer evenly. Tekins use 3mm or 5mm chisel tip. I work on Tekins a lot since'91.
Like earlier post Heat transfer is the trick.
As for solder removal I'd rather use a solder sucker, the spring loaded tool, better the one I posted. Wick tended to over heat , you have to heat up the wick so it soaks up the solder.. Remover I posted $30. Cheaper then $340 desoldering station out there
Like earlier post Heat transfer is the trick.
As for solder removal I'd rather use a solder sucker, the spring loaded tool, better the one I posted. Wick tended to over heat , you have to heat up the wick so it soaks up the solder.. Remover I posted $30. Cheaper then $340 desoldering station out there