Mamba Monster X release
05-29-2016, 09:48 AM
#91
Is any one having fan issues? I have a brand new Mamba Monster X and the fan does not come on when I first turn on the ESC or when temps rise. I called castle and they sent me a new fan and they mentioned that it could be that because I am running my bec at 7.5 volts that the fan is not rated for that high of a voltage and it could of burnt it out. The rep mentioned that it would take some time to burn it up & it would not happen right away. I recieved a new fan in the mail and the same problem. It won't turn on at all..... Any ideas?
05-29-2016, 10:03 AM
#92
Possibly the connector between the fan and the harness or the harness and the ESC? I just crashed my car in some water in the median of the road and I think I shorted the ESC switch. The harness itself has no waterproofing.
05-30-2016, 05:18 PM
#93
Has there been a fix/update for the possible 6s issues?
05-31-2016, 06:56 AM
#94
just an update on my experiences, I don't get to run the vehicles a ton that they are in, but they are race vehicles and are run during race conditions so I need them to perform at a high level, SCT 4x4 and 1/8 E-Buggy.
The esc's have worked flawlessly. No issues, fans come on as you would expect, and the esc's perform excellent. Only things I personally would have liked to have seen done:
- A port on the ESC itself to hook up the castlelink. The vehicles I use have a sealed box that can be a bit of a pain to open to get to the plug to do any setting changes. Pulling the screws, putting the cover back on (for the dirt conditions you want to do this), then taking them off again to just try another setting is a chore. A plug on the esc or similar like the Viper VTX8 would have been a great help.
- A digital field link or whatever its called would have been so much better. HW or now defunct Vipers box did those in a great way, so if castle ever made one I would be game to try.
- stupid sticker on bottom of the esc. THese really need to just go. In general I just cut these but I forgot on the my 1/8 e buggy and wouldn't you know, esc popped free. No biggy, just cut it off and no issues since and don't use junk servo tape, however, this should be a given by now as whatever is in the sticker seems to not allow it to form a good bond with the clear tape I use, parma style.
- do something with the bullet plugs wiring to allow a laydown setup without cutting the plugs by the "hole" to open it up. this is a trick we did back in the old days, cut a notch in the plug and you could run wires in the laydown manner. Be nice if the plugs could come that way by default. makes for a cleaner setup.
- solder posts for the battery side. this would be a great addition so you can run the right wire length as needed, versus going with whatever is stock. I know more so a feature for a racer, but still, thats from my perspective so will include that out there.
Outside of that, the esc is a great little unit.
The esc's have worked flawlessly. No issues, fans come on as you would expect, and the esc's perform excellent. Only things I personally would have liked to have seen done:
- A port on the ESC itself to hook up the castlelink. The vehicles I use have a sealed box that can be a bit of a pain to open to get to the plug to do any setting changes. Pulling the screws, putting the cover back on (for the dirt conditions you want to do this), then taking them off again to just try another setting is a chore. A plug on the esc or similar like the Viper VTX8 would have been a great help.
- A digital field link or whatever its called would have been so much better. HW or now defunct Vipers box did those in a great way, so if castle ever made one I would be game to try.
- stupid sticker on bottom of the esc. THese really need to just go. In general I just cut these but I forgot on the my 1/8 e buggy and wouldn't you know, esc popped free. No biggy, just cut it off and no issues since and don't use junk servo tape, however, this should be a given by now as whatever is in the sticker seems to not allow it to form a good bond with the clear tape I use, parma style.
- do something with the bullet plugs wiring to allow a laydown setup without cutting the plugs by the "hole" to open it up. this is a trick we did back in the old days, cut a notch in the plug and you could run wires in the laydown manner. Be nice if the plugs could come that way by default. makes for a cleaner setup.
- solder posts for the battery side. this would be a great addition so you can run the right wire length as needed, versus going with whatever is stock. I know more so a feature for a racer, but still, thats from my perspective so will include that out there.
Outside of that, the esc is a great little unit.
05-31-2016, 08:14 AM
#95
- A port on the ESC itself to hook up the castlelink. The vehicles I use have a sealed box that can be a bit of a pain to open to get to the plug to do any setting changes. Pulling the screws, putting the cover back on (for the dirt conditions you want to do this), then taking them off again to just try another setting is a chore. A plug on the esc or similar like the Viper VTX8 would have been a great help.
+1
- A digital field link or whatever its called would have been so much better. HW or now defunct Vipers box did those in a great way, so if castle ever made one I would be game to try.
It's not digital, but there is Field Link. http://www.castlecreations.com/products/field_link.html
- stupid sticker on bottom of the esc. THese really need to just go. In general I just cut these but I forgot on the my 1/8 e buggy and wouldn't you know, esc popped free. No biggy, just cut it off and no issues since and don't use junk servo tape, however, this should be a given by now as whatever is in the sticker seems to not allow it to form a good bond with the clear tape I use, parma style.
+1
- do something with the bullet plugs wiring to allow a laydown setup without cutting the plugs by the "hole" to open it up. this is a trick we did back in the old days, cut a notch in the plug and you could run wires in the laydown manner. Be nice if the plugs could come that way by default. makes for a cleaner setup.
- solder posts for the battery side. this would be a great addition so you can run the right wire length as needed, versus going with whatever is stock. I know more so a feature for a racer, but still, thats from my perspective so will include that out there.
+1
Outside of that, the esc is a great little unit.
07-31-2016, 03:08 PM
#97
I have a one week old MMX and the fan is a no go. I removed it to test and it does not spin with a battery connected direct.
Also having issues on 6s with a 1550kv motor (savage flux, 18t pinion). ESC temp steadily climbed up to 190 according to the logs. I have two Motor Start Failures. Towards the end I experienced power loss - I would hit the throttle, truck would move for a foot, and then nothing (all while throttle is pressed).
I've got a total of about 25 minutes on this setup.
I figure the esc temps went high because the fan took a crap, not sure if the rest is related. Possibly.
Will hit up Castle for the fan..
Also having issues on 6s with a 1550kv motor (savage flux, 18t pinion). ESC temp steadily climbed up to 190 according to the logs. I have two Motor Start Failures. Towards the end I experienced power loss - I would hit the throttle, truck would move for a foot, and then nothing (all while throttle is pressed).
I've got a total of about 25 minutes on this setup.
I figure the esc temps went high because the fan took a crap, not sure if the rest is related. Possibly.
Will hit up Castle for the fan..
07-31-2016, 03:12 PM
#98
This may be a stupid question, but are you sure the fan is plugged in? I'm also not sure if the fan is PWM or not because if it is, DC voltage won't spin it.
07-31-2016, 04:54 PM
#99
I have a one week old MMX and the fan is a no go. I removed it to test and it does not spin with a battery connected direct.
Also having issues on 6s with a 1550kv motor (savage flux, 18t pinion). ESC temp steadily climbed up to 190 according to the logs. I have two Motor Start Failures. Towards the end I experienced power loss - I would hit the throttle, truck would move for a foot, and then nothing (all while throttle is pressed).
I've got a total of about 25 minutes on this setup.
I figure the esc temps went high because the fan took a crap, not sure if the rest is related. Possibly.
Will hit up Castle for the fan..
Also having issues on 6s with a 1550kv motor (savage flux, 18t pinion). ESC temp steadily climbed up to 190 according to the logs. I have two Motor Start Failures. Towards the end I experienced power loss - I would hit the throttle, truck would move for a foot, and then nothing (all while throttle is pressed).
I've got a total of about 25 minutes on this setup.
I figure the esc temps went high because the fan took a crap, not sure if the rest is related. Possibly.
Will hit up Castle for the fan..
07-31-2016, 09:14 PM
#100
I've had some high temps on my motor & battery, but never the ESC. I don't think my MMX has ever gotten above ~130deg, the fan never kicks on(150deg is when it comes on). I would check your battery connection, reload the latest software, check all your settings, & recilabrate. .
I have deans all around and very good solder job, 2x 50c 5200mah 3 cell Lectron Pro batteries, Toro 1550 truggy sensored motor (running sensorless though), 18t pinion, and some mean tires
My last setup (tekin rx8 + 2250kv + same batteries) ESC caught on fire 10 minutes into my first run
my buddy's stock flux with 6s MAXAMPs runs hard and has no issues 
I just loaded new 1.77 firmware yesterday. Calibration is good - it runs good, until it begins to get hot..
I am thinking this Toro truggy motor is too small to push this thing around with these tires with an 18t pinion. I guess that's why guys pick big ole motors into their savages
Since we got logs now and all.. here's mine from the last run
http://stuckatwork.com/savage%20log%201.csv
07-31-2016, 09:59 PM
#101
What is your setup if you don't mind?
I have deans all around and very good solder job, 2x 50c 5200mah 3 cell Lectron Pro batteries, Toro 1550 truggy sensored motor (running sensorless though), 18t pinion, and some mean tires
My last setup (tekin rx8 + 2250kv + same batteries) ESC caught on fire 10 minutes into my first run my buddy's stock flux with 6s MAXAMPs runs hard and has no issues
I just loaded new 1.77 firmware yesterday. Calibration is good - it runs good, until it begins to get hot..
I am thinking this Toro truggy motor is too small to push this thing around with these tires with an 18t pinion. I guess that's why guys pick big ole motors into their savages
Since we got logs now and all.. here's mine from the last run
http://stuckatwork.com/savage%20log%201.csv
I have deans all around and very good solder job, 2x 50c 5200mah 3 cell Lectron Pro batteries, Toro 1550 truggy sensored motor (running sensorless though), 18t pinion, and some mean tires
My last setup (tekin rx8 + 2250kv + same batteries) ESC caught on fire 10 minutes into my first run
my buddy's stock flux with 6s MAXAMPs runs hard and has no issues I just loaded new 1.77 firmware yesterday. Calibration is good - it runs good, until it begins to get hot..
I am thinking this Toro truggy motor is too small to push this thing around with these tires with an 18t pinion. I guess that's why guys pick big ole motors into their savages
Since we got logs now and all.. here's mine from the last run
http://stuckatwork.com/savage%20log%201.csv
07-31-2016, 10:12 PM
#102
Batteries were just warm to the touch (no puffing), as were the wires. I'll order the sensor harness for the MMX
10-04-2016, 10:08 PM
#103
well its october, I have the sensor harness, new fan, updated the firmware, but I am still very unhappy. Temps are still hotter than I'd like, fan comes on, but worst of all, it either lags at full trigger takeoff, or simpky moves a foot and then stops completely (while trigger still pressed).
Batteries are not even warm yet, and are 50c 6s. Wiring connections everything is solid, this is the ESC
Is this thing just weak? I see savages doing triple backflips on 6s all day long on stock ESCs. Is the X a dud? Im going to email castle with a copy of the log.
For the 10 minutes that my tekin rx8 2250kv ran on same 6s batteries, it didnt have any bogging or takeofd issues. Buggy software?
Batteries are not even warm yet, and are 50c 6s. Wiring connections everything is solid, this is the ESC
Is this thing just weak? I see savages doing triple backflips on 6s all day long on stock ESCs. Is the X a dud? Im going to email castle with a copy of the log.
For the 10 minutes that my tekin rx8 2250kv ran on same 6s batteries, it didnt have any bogging or takeofd issues. Buggy software?
01-02-2017, 06:57 PM
#105
Ok, hopefully someone can give a straight answer to this question. I've searched all over and the question seems to get dodged for the most part. Did see an explanation on another forum from the president of Castle, but it just doesn't make sense.
I can't, for the life of me, understand why the need for the sensor harness. The guy from Castle claimed that there was no room on the esc for a traditional sensor plug, but after looking at a friend's esc, the plug on the sensor harness that goes into the esc is actually larger than a normal sensor plug.
Can anybody explain the real reason for this harness, please? It just doesn't make any sense to me.
One thing I did notice about the harness is that there is a white wire on one end of the harness. If you look, that white wire and the black wire next to it, on the far end of the harness are crossed from one plug to the other. In other words, on one end of the harness, the white wire is on the far end of the plug. But on the other end of the harness, the white wire is second from the end of the plug.Not sure what that's all about. The only logical explanation I can see after examining this setup is that they messed up with the sensor wire orientation inside the esc and made this harness with two crossed wires to correct it.
I'm hoping that's not the case and really hope someone can shed some light on this.
I can't, for the life of me, understand why the need for the sensor harness. The guy from Castle claimed that there was no room on the esc for a traditional sensor plug, but after looking at a friend's esc, the plug on the sensor harness that goes into the esc is actually larger than a normal sensor plug.
Can anybody explain the real reason for this harness, please? It just doesn't make any sense to me.
One thing I did notice about the harness is that there is a white wire on one end of the harness. If you look, that white wire and the black wire next to it, on the far end of the harness are crossed from one plug to the other. In other words, on one end of the harness, the white wire is on the far end of the plug. But on the other end of the harness, the white wire is second from the end of the plug.Not sure what that's all about. The only logical explanation I can see after examining this setup is that they messed up with the sensor wire orientation inside the esc and made this harness with two crossed wires to correct it.
I'm hoping that's not the case and really hope someone can shed some light on this.