I hope I understand blinky rules right; you set the esc so that it is in stock speck mode, as in no timing, and then you are allowed to use the timing on the back of the motor, correct?

Yes.

yes, usually boost is also not allowed.

I don't know why, but a lot of people think you cannot use the timing on the back of the motor in stock spec, that it has to be set to zero. I had a friend complain he was getting killed in stock spec, and I asked what timing on the back of the motor he was using, and he said none because it is stock spec.

However bear in mind that some bigger events with hand out control motors fix the timing on the cans with a sticker or something to make all the motors the same. Alternatively they use fixed timing motors.

So the big factor in stock spec is not allowing you to set up a custom power curve to include boosting parameters, so the power available is a linear curve. I can still go faster than I need @ 25* timing. I guess this is why everyone in stock spec is buying the 100C batteries as well.

The zero degree on the motor is also different among brands. The one is real zero, some have +10 and there are motors with +30 degrees.

To prevent this in a lot of stock competitions the motor is determed. Just one like with the ETS or a few as I do see on several clubraces.

I put a Track Star in one car, and even with timing it is a slug. This is not a good blinky motor, back to Tekin.

I prefer Trinity D4 series, especially the D41S. Also the Shurrspeed are excellent, as there are others that scream with more timing.

"stock spec" doesn't always mean zero end bell timing. Example JBRL series states "zero timing". I asked Jimmy B and he said it only applies to the ESC, not the motor end bell. So check with race director to be sure.

Both are considered timing so people get confused.

The higher C rating helps with punch. It's not so much top speed. I've always run high C rating batteries so I haven't experienced the difference but I know a ton of people who noticed the difference wehn they do upgrade from like 50C to 80C even.

Think of C rating as how long a full burst of power can be applied before it tapers off. These are only numbers used as an example not real so all you techies don't bash me just trying to show why the higher C rating is better.

25C - can apply maximum power for 3 seconds
50C - can apply maximum power for 5 seconds
90C - can apply maximum power 8 seconds
100C - can apply maximum power 10 seconds.

You can see an advantage down the straight or a big jump. Especially if you have a amp drawing motor and need that boost for the big table top or triple.